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frizzen and hammer alignment

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pinemarten

40 Cal.
Joined
Nov 16, 2015
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I have a question regarding the lock on my .50cal. I believe it is a Silar lock... I notice that the hammer/cock is not centered on the frizzen. The lock sits in closer to the gun and the frizzen out a bit which means that when I center a flint on the cock it is not centered against the frizzen. The flint will be off the frizzen by about a 1/8" or so when at half-cock and inset on the off-side so that it isn't striking an 1/8" or so on that side of the frizzen. Is this normal or is there a way to adjust it? It seems to work ok and fire quickly but is not hitting as much frizzen steel as maybe it should?

Dan
 
that's basically just the way the Siler lock is. If the bolster was thicker (like it should be :D ), then everything would be centered better. Just put your flint where it needs to be. Use wider flints if you can. I usually use larger size flints and knock the back edge off so it can fit in the jaws. ;)
 
Oh great my new kit rifle has a Siler Chambers Deluxe lock. I don't know much about Siler locks but have heard they have a pretty good reputation. What say you about this brand of lock forum, any good ?
 
The Siler lock has been the standard for 40 years. The un-centered cock/frizzen is just an eccentricity of it, and has no real impact on function. There are definitely things I would change about the Siler, myself (there are things I would change about ALL locks!), particularly thickening the bolster and flattening out that ski ramp of a frizzen spring, but for the most part, they're good to go. ;)
 
Right, does not effect function, just a cosmetic thing that is only noticeable on close inspection...but you would think they could have designed it better. ??
 
I have a question regarding the lock on my .50cal. I believe it is a Silar lock... I notice that the hammer/cock is not centered on the frizzen. The lock sits in closer to the gun and the frizzen out a bit which means that when I center a flint on the cock it is not centered against the frizzen. The flint will be off the frizzen by about a 1/8" or so when at half-cock and inset on the off-side so that it isn't striking an 1/8" or so on that side of the frizzen. Is this normal or is there a way to adjust it? It seems to work ok and fire quickly but is not hitting as much frizzen steel as maybe it should?

Dan
Can the lock be moved out a bit farther with say a brass shim to better line up with the frizzen? Not really sure what your talking about until I get the lock and can look it over but if such a fix is possible now is the time to be thinking about it in my case.
I can make new springs as well so will be looking these possible deficiencies over.
 
I have a question regarding the lock on my .50cal. I believe it is a Silar lock... I notice that the hammer/cock is not centered on the frizzen. The lock sits in closer to the gun and the frizzen out a bit which means that when I center a flint on the cock it is not centered against the frizzen. The flint will be off the frizzen by about a 1/8" or so when at half-cock and inset on the off-side so that it isn't striking an 1/8" or so on that side of the frizzen. Is this normal or is there a way to adjust it? It seems to work ok and fire quickly but is not hitting as much frizzen steel as maybe it should?

Dan
Just so you don't get confused with the correct 18th century terms Dan, The steel is called the hammer, & the gun flint fits in the jaws of the cock. I hope this video is of some help.
Keith.
 
I don't know much about Siler locks but have heard they have a pretty good reputation.

They do have a good reputation. But, understand, the name "Siler" has become somewhat generic. As far as I know, Siler never sold locks. He sold a parts kit with instructions for heat treating and assembly. Meaning the quality of a Siler lock was dependent upon the skills of the individual who built the kit. Chamber apparently bought the rights to the Siler business and name and now sells a (reportedly) improved version under his own name. e.g. Chambers-Siler. Even then, as Dave Person has posted, that lock can stand some improvement to turn it from a 'good' lock to a highly reliable masterpiece.
 
Can the lock be moved out a bit farther with say a brass shim to better line up with the frizzen? Not really sure what your talking about until I get the lock and can look it over but if such a fix is possible now is the time to be thinking about it in my case.
I can make new springs as well so will be looking these possible deficiencies over.
No. If you move the lock outward the frizzen will not seal against the barrel and moisture will get in and priming will get out.
 
I did get a choice of regular Siler or the Chambers Deluxe Siler and chose the later, are these deficiencies corrected in the supposed improved lock?
Any way thanks for the tips guys as I really love to mess with locks and learn about tuning them up. This is my first personal flint long gun, my only experience to date has been my own flint hand guns and others rifles.
My Yazel flint pistol had to be modified extensively to get it sparking reliably but the exercise taught me quite a bit about about cock and frizzen geometry, cock bending, frizzen hardening and spring adjustment. Even had to make a new sear bar from tool steel and modify the coil main spring and frizzen spring but in the end it works reliably and much was learned.
 

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