Just as a reminder:
Rule 10: We do not discuss conversion cylinders or anything to do with metal cartridges.
Rule 10: We do not discuss conversion cylinders or anything to do with metal cartridges.
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Ruger Old Army
- Thread starter appalichian hunter
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Rat
50 Cal.
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I've come to prefer a six inch barrel over all others. Well that all sounds good to me, I would feel fine in the woods with those loads and that pistol. The old timers got by with the .45 S&W load just fine, and the 255grain/40 grain load was considered to be very effective. I believe Keith said that the 40 grain 255 grain bullet load would penetrate a cow's skull just fine. I imagine the Dragoon out weighs the ROA, so the extra weight might not be worth a few more grains of powder. There's a limit to how heavy a sidearm you want to pack all day, along with all one's other hunting gear, food and water, and for me the ROA would be about that limit. Good hunting!
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I have read that the ROA's are made of 4140 gun barrel steel so the cartridge conversion cylinder should be up to at least standard .45 Colt smokeless loads strength wise but then now were getting out of bounds for this forum. Standard black powder cylinders are also made of 4140 steel but the design precludes smokeless pressure.
I think it should be mentioned from a safety perspective though to keep folks unfamiliar with the difference out of trouble.
I think it should be mentioned from a safety perspective though to keep folks unfamiliar with the difference out of trouble.
appalichian hunter
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Somewhere I came across a smith that will increase the original R.O.A. cylinder capacity but I believe it was only 5grn. really does not seem worth the cost or effort.
Target load:
18-22gr of goex or Swiss, 10-15 gr of filler, cream of wheat or similar, that is enough to seat a .457rb of pure lead flush with front of cylinder. Crisco or soft lube on top. Should get x-ring accuracy, that is, less than 2 inch groups at 25 yards. On good days, mine has shot several 1in. groups of 5 shots. Have fun, they are a great pistol.
18-22gr of goex or Swiss, 10-15 gr of filler, cream of wheat or similar, that is enough to seat a .457rb of pure lead flush with front of cylinder. Crisco or soft lube on top. Should get x-ring accuracy, that is, less than 2 inch groups at 25 yards. On good days, mine has shot several 1in. groups of 5 shots. Have fun, they are a great pistol.
rodwha
58 Cal.
He was concerned with black bears. That would require more than a target load.
You can also use a corn meal filler between your charge and the ball.
DOUBLEDEUCE 1
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I would use powder instead of pellets. Several times I have seen still burning pellets heading down range for approximately twenty yards or more. We would immediately go to where the burning debris landed to make sure it didn’t start a fire.
Just a thought...
Just a thought...
Rat
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Oh man...Zonie's gonna spank you boyz. I didn't catch the reference to using pellets. For sure, why use anything but good Swiss powder for the intended purpose. On fillers, that would not make sense to me either, just a wonder wad, and not a bad idea to use a very thin cardboard wad between the wonder wad and powder, to keep the powder dry. However, for the time length of a hunt, powder contamination is probably inconsequential, or moot, or...you know.
Rat
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Oh manure. I see pellets are referenced in the first post. Duh. Anyhow, want to reiterate that for the intended purpose, a slug should (will) penetrate more, even at reduced velocities, than a ball, and as you want penetration on a frontal shot, a slug would for sure be better for the intended purpose. I have done experiments where heavier slugs, compared to lighter slugs, fired at lower velocities, will penetrate further than the faster, lighter slug, showing less "foot-pounds" of energy, according to the foot pounds of energy chart. Just a thought.
rodwha
58 Cal.
Although they are not traditional in any sense of the word, I usually let people talk about the synthetic black powder pellets in their posts.
My reason for doing this is, often our members will see these things offered in gun stores and wonder if they will work in their cap lock or cap & ball guns.
My answer to that question is, yes, they will usually work but I don't recommend them at all.
They MUST be loaded with the black powder "starter" on them, towards the rear, close to the cap and they cost an arm and a leg when compared with loose powder.
They also rule out the whole idea of making small changes in a powder load to get the best accuracy out of a gun.
My reason for doing this is, often our members will see these things offered in gun stores and wonder if they will work in their cap lock or cap & ball guns.
My answer to that question is, yes, they will usually work but I don't recommend them at all.
They MUST be loaded with the black powder "starter" on them, towards the rear, close to the cap and they cost an arm and a leg when compared with loose powder.
They also rule out the whole idea of making small changes in a powder load to get the best accuracy out of a gun.
I wouldn't bet my life on that if I thought there was a serious chance of needing it for self defense, especially to stop a bear and I'd NEVER use a round ball for that.
If you grease a wonder wad and put it under the ball you don't need that grease on top and you can fill that cylinder minus the space for the ball and wonder wad. That shoots pretty darn good in mine but it is still not equal to a 44 special in a modern gun.
Caps can fall off, caps can gum up the whole works to where you'd be bear feces before you could get it to turn to the next shot.
Get you a 44 mag Blackhawk for all the same "feel" with none of the mess and down side if you are incline to bet on it to stop a bear.
rodwha,
Actually, the poster asked for a target and hunting load. I gave him a very good target load. As for hunting, just fill the cylinder with Swiss 3fg less a little bit to fit a .457 dia ball or bullet, crisco on top. Personally, I’d carry a .44mag. And to those who say I cannot during a ML hunting season, i’d quote the second amendment to them. Nor will I comply.
Actually, the poster asked for a target and hunting load. I gave him a very good target load. As for hunting, just fill the cylinder with Swiss 3fg less a little bit to fit a .457 dia ball or bullet, crisco on top. Personally, I’d carry a .44mag. And to those who say I cannot during a ML hunting season, i’d quote the second amendment to them. Nor will I comply.
rodwha
58 Cal.
Apparently I fixated on hunting. Indeed you are correct. Sorry.
I would disagree that something that powerful is needed. It might be wanted, but even a lowly .44 Spl could be called upon to handle that job, assuming the bear isn’t from Canada, mad, and/or very hungry.
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I like your grips. Source, please?
I use a 240grain REAL Bullet and all the FFF that will fit in the cylinder and still let it turn.
They make a REAL bullet for an ROA? Where could I find same?
Yep, we have all heard of the grizzly shot 6 time in the chest with two of the six in the heart who went on to kill or mame all in the party before dying and landing n his last victim. ONLY way to stop an enraged griz (to my knowledge) is a spine shot. Have heard the Eskimos shoot polar bear with Ruger single 6 .22. They wait till he is 5-6 feet away and shoot him in his open mouth. Now if ya got male parts of an Eskimo I would say all ya need is yer handy 1858 .36. Me? I would want the .50 golden eagle .45 auto, bear spray, a slow buddy and an SOS satellite beacon thingy. (ya ya I know thats not H/C, but since I stopped my juorney while shooting my replica's outta the corolla for practice I guess if we had grizzly here I would carry all). Last one killed in AZ was in like 1937 in the White Mountains.
