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WGDunaway

Pilgrim
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I have hunted with a Cabela's Hawken for 20 or more years. I upgraded to a Green Mountain Barrel in 0.50 (1 in 24) and new musket nipples and caps and 777 made an accurate, lethal hunting rifle. Now I find I cannot locate musket caps locally (Alabama) so went back to #11 nipples and caps. When I went to check zero today. First shot with 80gr 777 was very good, then the second misfired. I replace the #11 and it fired, but poor ignition.

I clean my rifle after each use using hot water, toothbrushes, pipe cleaners, bore butter etc.

I would appreciate anyone's thoughts as to how to overcome this problem. Thank you all
 
Use a nipple pick after each shot and again after loading but before capping. Make sure the cap is seated all the way on the nipple. When I load the powder I tilt the rifle towards the lock and tap on the drum. It may be just ritualistic but I am hoping to force powder under the nipple by doing this. Seems to work.
 
I’m not here to promote anyone’s product as I’m just getting back into muzzleloading myself. But while trying to gather all I need I learned that not all caps are equal. There are some mfg’s caps that just don’t perform as well as others.
 
...musket nipples and caps....

Lotta guys around here use 777 and #11's with complete reliability and accuracy. The only exception are guys who've been using musket nipples and caps like you are, then switch to #11 nipples and caps.

Can't say for sure if the same cause is true for yours, but I'm suspicious. What all of them found was that a big chunk of coal-like fouling had built up in the breech behind the long muzket nipple. As a result things just didn't go so pretty good when they made the switch.

The universal solution here has been to get a breech scraper shaped to the breech and "hog out" all that black coal. Won't get much when you first start twisting your rod. But put some pressure on it and keep twisting. Pretty quick some little chunks of coal will break free, then suddenly you'll get bigger chunks. Finally you won't get any more coal and everything will come up roses.

Gotta say I'm a little reluctant to describe that. I picked up a TC Hawken with a "shot out" 58 caliber custom barrel and musket nipple for $100 because the guy just couldn't get it to shoot reliably any more. I pulled the nipple, borrowed a buds shaped breech scraper and went mining for coal. Got lots. As far as I can recall it hasn't misfired a single time with #11 nipple and caps in the 6 or 8 years since the coal vein was removed.
 
WGDunaway:
All of the synthetic black powder substitutes are harder to ignite than real black powder. Some of them like Triple Se7en (777) and Blackhorn 209 were made to be used with modern primers, not with regular percussion caps. Pyrodex is a little easier to ignite but not much so you might consider trying some Pyrodex RS.

As for enlarging the hole thru a nipple, I consider it to be a poor idea. Going on, IMO .040 diameter is too large for the hole thru a nipple so if I was going to try to drill out the existing hole I would try a 1/32" (.03125) diameter drill first.
Most likely, the drill bit will break because nipples are hardened and tough as owl poo (not that I've ever tried to eat any owl poo to find out).

Gowhacky is right when he says there is a difference in percussion caps. If you can find them, buy some #11 CCI Magnum or some RWS 1075 caps. They are noticeably more powerful than the standard #11 caps.
The magnum caps were made to be used with some of the modern synthetic powders like Pyrodex so they might have a better chance of lighting the 777.
 
There used to be a nipple replacement that allowed use of a 209 primer. Maybe they are still around?
 
WGDunaway:
All of the synthetic black powder substitutes are harder to ignite than real black powder. Some of them like Triple Se7en (777) and Blackhorn 209 were made to be used with modern primers, not with regular percussion caps. Pyrodex is a little easier to ignite but not much so you might consider trying some Pyrodex RS.

As for enlarging the hole thru a nipple, I consider it to be a poor idea. Going on, IMO .040 diameter is too large for the hole thru a nipple so if I was going to try to drill out the existing hole I would try a 1/32" (.03125) diameter drill first.
Most likely, the drill bit will break because nipples are hardened and tough as owl poo (not that I've ever tried to eat any owl poo to find out).

Gowhacky is right when he says there is a difference in percussion caps. If you can find them, buy some #11 CCI Magnum or some RWS 1075 caps. They are noticeably more powerful than the standard #11 caps.
The magnum caps were made to be used with some of the modern synthetic powders like Pyrodex so they might have a better chance of lighting the 777.
I have had in the past ignition issues with substitute powders and have successfully drilled many a nipple to .040".
The only time I broke a bit was when making my own stainless steel nipples but mastered it eventually. Owl poop ain't to hard really and is usually soft in the middle!

To be honest the real pain here is the substitute powders! They really are carp compared!

B.
 
I have hunted with a Cabela's Hawken for 20 or more years. I upgraded to a Green Mountain Barrel in 0.50 (1 in 24) and new musket nipples and caps and 777 made an accurate, lethal hunting rifle. Now I find I cannot locate musket caps locally (Alabama) so went back to #11 nipples

I guess I just don't get changing a good thing. They are like $8 for a can of 100, and a big bump for shipping. Yea? So spend $120 and get 1000 musket caps shipped to you and shoot that "lethal hunting rifle" you know you have.

https://www.muzzle-loaders.com/cci-musket-caps.html

Post Script: The hazmat fees are the same no matter how many you order, so 2000 caps only costs you $79.90 more then 1000 caps.
 
MY FIRST THOUGHT was to suggest Hot Shot nipples which allow the back pressure of each firing to clear the ignition channel.
My next thought was to skip using Bore Butter.
Do you wipe a damp patch down the barrel after each shot? That will help clear out the manure that's blocking your ignition channel.
Your problem seems to be caused by residue from the first shot blocking that channel.
Dr5x


I have hunted with a Cabela's Hawken for 20 or more years. I upgraded to a Green Mountain Barrel in 0.50 (1 in 24) and new musket nipples and caps and 777 made an accurate, lethal hunting rifle. Now I find I cannot locate musket caps locally (Alabama) so went back to #11 nipples and caps. When I went to check zero today. First shot with 80gr 777 was very good, then the second misfired. I replace the #11 and it fired, but poor ignition.

I clean my rifle after each use using hot water, toothbrushes, pipe cleaners, bore butter etc.

I would appreciate anyone's thoughts as to how to overcome this problem. Thank you all
 
YOU SAY YOUR GREEN MOUNTAIN NEW BARREL HAS A 1 TURN IN 24 INCHES. THAT IS VERY FAST, TOO FAST FOR ROUNDBALL.
ARE SHOOTING ELONGATED PROJECTILES INLY OR ALWAYS USING THE SABOTS ONE ASSOCIATES WITH INLINE SOCALLED MUZZLELOADERS?
DR5X

I have hunted with a Cabela's Hawken for 20 or more years. I upgraded to a Green Mountain Barrel in 0.50 (1 in 24) and new musket nipples and caps and 777 made an accurate, lethal hunting rifle. Now I find I cannot locate musket caps locally (Alabama) so went back to #11 nipples and caps. When I went to check zero today. First shot with 80gr 777 was very good, then the second misfired. I replace the #11 and it fired, but poor ignition.

I clean my rifle after each use using hot water, toothbrushes, pipe cleaners, bore butter etc.

I would appreciate anyone's thoughts as to how to overcome this problem. Thank you all
 
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