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Murphy's Soap???

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Plus 1 for M.A.P. great cleaning agent, run a patch soaked with WD40 afterwards, wipe the stock down with Wonder Lube 1000, run another WD40 patch and its done.
 
I think a thorough water flush is most important. You need to rinse the salts away, not just dissolve them and shmeer them around the bore. For this a healthy dose of water is most effective.

I use a lot of tallow to grease the patches. So a patch soaked in MAP is good for clearing the grease out so the salts can be rinsed away.
 
In MAP water is a big part. HP is only 3% the rest is WATER.

MAP is 33 1/3 Murphy's oil Soap

Denatured Alcohol 33 1/3% if pure

Hydrogen Peroxide 3%

Water is 30% plus possible more due to alcohol really has some % of water in it Use rubbing alcohol add another 9% water and then water will be the biggest % in the mix.

That amount of water flushes the salts per 20-25 years of using MAP.

Want to use just water fine use it, it will work.
 
That amount of water flushes the salts per 20-25 years of using MAP.

You could use 100% water and still not adequately flush the salts. If all you do is run a damp patch or two downbore before moving on to drying the bore I doubt you're really flushing salts out.

Methods that involve pouring water in the muzzle, immersing the breech, or attaching a flush tube. Or, lacking those options you could have some success running many soaked patches through.
 
The secret is to clean the fouling out after each shot....If you let fouling accumulate your final cleanup will be ten times harder.

The addition of soap and alcohol make MAP a much better/faster cleaner than water alone.

I also squirt some down the bore to flush the breech.....You can also use a pump/flush bottle.
 
Method I use is Block touch hole or nipple. Pour MAP into the bore up to the muzzle. Let sit for 10-15 minutes while cleaning the lock.

Then pour MAP out of the bore and use 5 to 10 patches to wipe the bore dry. Patches will be white on the last one.

Then WD-40 soaked on patch down the bore and back up a couple of times. After dry with clean patch.

Next RIG grease rubbed into a patch that goes down the bore to the breech and back up.

The outside of the gun is wiped down and am done till the next time. Whether next day, week, or next season.

It works for me so good I will keep doing it..
 
Sun City said:
Take a few nails and put 'em in a Mason jar and spray down with WD-40! Put them on your work bench and go back and look at them 30 days later!! :cursing: :nono: :doh:
What has that got to do with a RIG grease protected bore???

WD-40 is to displace water that may have been residual from drying.

All WD-40 does is displace the water it is not a protectant.
 
I used it for 40 years as a final protect ant here in arid AZ. Never a problem. Proving I am easily lead I switched to Barricade after several folk here I respect sung too many praises. I wouldn't hesitate to return to WD-40 tough? Bore buttered an enfield for 15 years and no rust when I cleaned out the CRUST. Lot to do with climate I believe?
 
I use my own concoction of 1 part Murphy's Oil Soap, 1 part castor oil and 6 parts 70% denatured alcohol as a barrel swab between PRBs at the range to keep my shots consistent. Works for me. I add an oz. of MOS to a gallon of hot water when I'm cleaning after a shooting session, then lube the barrel with Slip2000 Extreme Weapons Lube. Keeps my MLs humming and rust free.
 
THE OTHER DAY I POSED THE QUESTION AS TO WHETHER THE OIL OR THE SOAP IN MURPHY'S OIL SOAP ADDED A SLICKNESS THAT AFFECTED THE TIGHTNESS OF THE RESULTING GROUPS.
THERE WERE AN ENDLESS NUMBER OF REPLIES SAYING HOW EXCELLENT A CLEANER IT WAS. NOBEL PRIZE WAITING TO BE AWARDED.

NO ONE SAID SQUAT ABOUT THE OIL OR SOAPS AFFECT ON THE RESULTING GROUPS.

TSK!
DUTCH SCHOULTZ


Murphy's Soap!

Anyone got an opinion about it being a good cleaning agent??

Thanks! :bow:
 
THE OTHER DAY I POSED THE QUESTION AS TO WHETHER THE OIL OR THE SOAP IN MURPHY'S OIL SOAP ADDED A SLICKNESS THAT AFFECTED THE TIGHTNESS OF THE RESULTING GROUPS.
THERE WERE AN ENDLESS NUMBER OF REPLIES SAYING HOW EXCELLENT A CLEANER IT WAS. NOBEL PRIZE WAITING TO BE AWARDED.

NO ONE SAID SQUAT ABOUT THE OIL OR SOAPS AFFECT ON THE RESULTING GROUPS.

TSK!
DUTCH SCHOULTZ
I did Dutch and so did bent sight. He did quite a lot of testing using Mos and another lube. Most of my guns like it and I get similar group to when I’ve used other concoctions
 
What is the shelf life of M.A.P.? After you mix it up, how long do you have to use it before it needs to get dumped down the drain and replaced with a new batch?
 
What is the shelf life of M.A.P.? After you mix it up, how long do you have to use it before it needs to get dumped down the drain and replaced with a new batch?

I don't know about shelf life but I've been using a batch a friend made for me over 20 years ago! I used to clean with it but now I just use it as a patch lube.
 
THE OTHER DAY I POSED THE QUESTION AS TO WHETHER THE OIL OR THE SOAP IN MURPHY'S OIL SOAP ADDED A SLICKNESS THAT AFFECTED THE TIGHTNESS OF THE RESULTING GROUPS.
THERE WERE AN ENDLESS NUMBER OF REPLIES SAYING HOW EXCELLENT A CLEANER IT WAS. NOBEL PRIZE WAITING TO BE AWARDED.

NO ONE SAID SQUAT ABOUT THE OIL OR SOAPS AFFECT ON THE RESULTING GROUPS.

TSK!
DUTCH SCHOULTZ

Shoots about as well as a spit patch - but without needing to be wiped between shots. Maybe every fifth shot in the right humidity.

3 rounds, 50 yards standing offhand percussion .50. I actually developed Moose Snot for this rifle because it wasn't a good round ball shooter with Bore Butter.

URXQgcX.jpg


Two 5 round groups, resting on knees, flintlock .54 at 50 yards.

S4W78bX.jpg
 
Interesting that I found this topic, now. Prior to reading this, I had mixed some Murphy's Oil Soap, Pine Sol and alcohol to use as a patch lube, per the recommendation of a friend. I will be trying it out, this weekend. I have not considered Murphy's as part of my cleaning. May give it a try after this weekend, just to see.
 
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