chisel bevel

Been trying to learn about sharpening chisels,etc... and have found that some people prefer different bevels on their chisels and spokeshaves from the standard 25*. Any advantage in gun work to a different bevel or is it just being knit picky ?

I just sharpen the chisels by "eyeball". W/in reason, don't think it matters what the angle is...25 degrees sounds OK although I've never checked my chisels for angles.....Fred

there IS a optimum bevel....to steap and it will 'chatter' across the wood....to shallow, and she will slice into the wood.........
I'm still learning the 'art' of sharpening.....for some reason, knapping flints and sharpening escapes me..........

marc n tomtom

You can get a chisel sharpening tool. It's got a slot on each side, and you screw it across the chisel to hold it stationary. It has wheels to allow you to roll it up and down the stone.

It makes a helluva difference, and does a great job on spokeshaves.

The stone has to be dead true on the surface. You can true the stone by clamping a sheet of fine sandpaper on a window pane and rubbing the stone against the glass/sandpaper.

The stone I use is a Japanese Waterstone. It's something like 1200 grit on the rough side.

The optimum is supposed to be 30° so I try for that but in very tiny chisels I use a lesser degree because it will cut easier. The higher the angle the longer the tip will hold up but a higher angle will make a chisel harder to cut or lift wood or metal. One way to think of a chisel is to remember that it lifts wood out of the cut. And remember a straight chisel does not cut on the sides. A flat chisel has to rip the sides of the wood on the cut out. A flat chisel only works well on ridges. A gouge is much better for removing wood on a flat surface. Then cut the ridges off with the flat.