Seal new GPR stock?

I have on order a new Lyman GPR, .54 cal, 1 in 60", percussion and have a question on what steps to take to finish the stock, if any. The manual states: "The stock has been stained with oil leaving a dull finish. As with all oil finished stocks, rubbing in additional thin coats of oil (linseed or Birchwood Caseys Tru-Oil) will further enhance the finish and protect the stock.

Should a sealer be applied to the barrel channel, lock area, etc? If so, any recommendations for type of sealer? Would love to hear any opinions on this and what you have done to your gpr. Thanks in advance.

I'm a huge fan of Tru-Oil.

It's a hopped up Linseed base, with hardeners and drying agents.

Others use Chamber's concoction - similar to Tru-Oil.

I have also used Spar Varnish or an Oil Based Poly Urethane (MinWax or Varathane).

Tru-Oil would be "closer" to a traditional finish. The Poly-Urethane or Spar Varnish is considerably "tougher".

Other's will have their suggestions - I think all work - it's more preference than function.

This is a "factory stock" Lyman Trade Rifle. Factory finish sanded off. Rubbed a few coats of a Black water based stain to bring out the grain, then coated with (I can't remember how many - til it looked good) coats of Tru-Oil

Wow, thats a great looking rifle! Is that a Lyman peep sight on it? I guess what I'm wondering, the way the manual states the condition of the stock, is it already sealed? Thanks for the reply and photo.

Wow, thats a great looking rifle! Is that a Lyman peep sight on it? I guess what I'm wondering, the way the manual states the condition of the stock, is it already sealed? Thanks for the reply and photo.

Why not contact the maker of the rifle???????????

Yes, Lyman peep sight.

I took off all the original finish (whatever it was) and that's what was underneath.

I think it looks a little better than the factory finish ever did :grin:

And sorry, totally missed your initial question about sealing the barrel channel etc.

I "seal" everything with marine epoxy (because I also work on wooden boats and have literally gallons of the stuff on hand).

While I no longer buy "factory made" guns I would treat them the same as my homemade stuff.

I would remove the barrel and "paint" everything (barrel/tang mortise) with unthickened epoxy (super thin, barely thicker than oil stain - not like the two part syringe stuff you get at the hardware store) - paint it on let it soak up as much as it wanted and keep at it until it won't take any more.

I would also remove the lock and trigger and likewise coat everything in there as well. And if a patchbox was present, I wouldn't remove it, but paint everything I could reach with the door open.

HC, not a chance - would my wood ever rot in those areas - not a chance.

Necessary? maybe not - there are plenty of 150 year old rifles still in fine working order today and they lived in far more trying conditions and were treated like a tool, not a valued possession in many cases.

But "just in case"....

You're absolutely right, I can contact the manufacturer, but it was my hope to maybe see what other owners opinions were, and maybe learn something in how they protected, enhanced their rifles. Just trying to use the knowledge the people of this forum provide.

airborne1 said:

Should a sealer be applied to the barrel channel, lock area, etc? If so, any recommendations for type of sealer? Would love to hear any opinions on this and what you have done to your gpr. Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

Seal all the interior surfaces. I use TruOil or Tunge Oil Finish.

BrownBear said:

airborne1 said:

Should a sealer be applied to the barrel channel, lock area, etc? If so, any recommendations for type of sealer? Would love to hear any opinions on this and what you have done to your gpr. Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

Seal all the interior surfaces. I use TruOil or Tunge Oil Finish.

Click to expand...

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X2 seal it up! :thumbsup:
under the but plate too!

X 3,
If your going to seal it,, seal it all, including the ramrod channel (think coat hanger w/swab end).

Sealing only part of it makes the wood have an un-even seal job,, moisture can get into one side and not the other,, that can make the wood move an twist in funny ways.
Be aware that adding more sealing products can tighten up the inlets for the lock an triggers and such. Not a big deal you can trim excess out with a sharp tool.

When I got my GPR, I removed the barrel and all the furniture and applied several coats of Tru-Oil everywhere. I thought about doing a complete refinish but it looked like it was going to be a lot of work to strip the factory finish, so I just did the Tru-Oil.

I did the exact same thing. When I got my GPR new, I just kept the factory finish on and applied three coats of Tru-Oil on it. Respectfully, cowboys1062.

I agree with the consensus: seal everything with TruOil or Lindspeed (although Permalyn works well, too) ... if you want to strip off the factory finish, that's certainly on the table ... I've usually had good result, and it affords the opportunity to remove some of the extra wood that factory stocks seem so fond of foisting off on the unsuspecting public ...

good luck with your project - let us know how it turns out and remember, we love pictures!

:v

Being as how we be po-folk,and Our GPR's are our pride and joy,I would love to see your "make-over" pictures!! If there where anyway to afford it,I would love to full stock one of mine :grin: Please post pictures hotoSmile: I need the input!!!

necchi said:

X 3,


Sealing only part of it makes the wood have an un-even seal job, moisture can get into one side and not the other, that can make the wood move an twist in funny ways.
Be aware that adding more sealing products can tighten up the inlets for the lock an triggers and such. Not a big deal you can trim excess out with a sharp tool.

Click to expand...

Amen.

I like to dismount as many metal parts as possible before finishing so as to seal thing up and make it as stable as possible. Though it's not so good in sealing out liquid water, shellac is really good at sealing out humidity, which is what makes the stock swell and contract. Getting your metal parts to fit right and work properly together again during final assembly can sometimes be a real chore too. You wouldn't think one real thin coat of varnish would bind stuff up that much, but it does.