Pillow Ticking Patching

I just bought some pillow ticking from Joann's Fabrics and the girl at the bolt counter asked me what it was for.

Normally I am little annoyed when someone asks me what I getting something for concerning some little project I might have going on, but I told her what it was going to be used for and proceeded with a little charade or mime action using a muzzleloading rifle and ramrod motion.

Now that I think back at it, I shutter to think of what this may have looked on a security camera.

Anyway, after I bought this stuff, I also bought some thicker ticking at a big box store nearby.

I washed it in a washing machine to get the sizing out, but realize I probably should have washed it by hand, because of frayed threads.

I plan to use this with homemade Moose juice in my .45 rifle and pistol.

Now for those of you who cut at the muzzle, how wide are your strips that you carry and would you have any recommendations on a good patch knife.

I think I would prefer something like the carbon steel similar to what is found in a Opinel folder.

For those that pre-cut patches what sizes would be good for. .45 and .54.

Cutting at the barrel probably means more consistency but can waste material.

Square patches would seem to center better than struggling with finding the center store-bought round patches.

So there seems to be a trade-off on each technique.

So I guess I would really like a patch knife recommendation, and also would like to know what size squares would be used for different calibers.

I assume squares in 1.5" for .54, and maybe 1.25" for .45 and .50 and possibly .75" for .32 calibers.

I would kind of want the option for both pre-cut and muzzle cutting.

I shoot a 45 and 50 cal the strips I carry are approx 1 3/4 to 2 inches wide, for cutting at the muzzle any smaller bladed very sharp knife would work or even a straight razor.

I've been using 1" squares for my 50 cal. I use my wife's cutting wheel and board with the squares already laid out so I get consistent size. I don't know how much that matters but my best groups have happened since I paid more attention to my patches.

Jamie

I like strips about 1-3/8" wide for my .54

It's not that critical but that allows me enough loose to assure a centered ball and material to get ahold of.

I tear, rather than cut. The material rips straight in the same direction as the stripes and then you don't get the little cut thread ends all over. MUCH faster, too.

For a patch knife I use whatever hunting knife is on my belt, folder in my pocket, folder in my shooting bag or neck knife I have with me. They are all equally sharp before I field dress a deer. I used to have a dedicated patch knife but it was one more thing to tangle outside the bag, and inside the bag it was unnecessary as I always have a sheath knife when I'm shooting or hunting.

Normally I load a wood ball block up ahead of time so a good folder in my bag works for that. I have a nice bone handled A.G. Russell single blade that is handy and has even dressed out a couple deer in it's time.

I don't worry about wasted cloth, pretty cheap stuff.

I also rip the ticking into strips and cut the patch at the muzzle most of the time. Occasionally I'll cut some of the strips into square patches. I too use my hunting knife or pocket knife to cut at the muzzle.

I rip strips, cut into squares with EMT shears, lube with Bear grease and store in a tin. Less wasted time in the field....

For 45's I use 1.187 (1&3/16) round or square. For 54 I use 1&3/8 round or square. :idunno:

Thanks everyone for the answers.

I saw one neat little trick earlier today where someone cut little scissor slits at even intervals in a long strip of lubed patching cloth and they would tear it off at the muzzle at the two connecting tabs of cloth making a square patch at the muzzle.

It was carried in a roll in the possibles bag.

I thought this was a pretty cool little technique.

I use 1 3/8" give or take for my 54. Use "patch scissors" at the muzzle.
I like the idea of the pre-cut slits.
Thanks for the tip.

You want the ticking just wide enough to go around the ball and be flush with the muzzle like the ball before cutting. It doesn't have to be exact though, just be consistent.

I bought one of those canoe knives (Small Early French Trade Knife 3-3/4") from TOW after reading an article on who and how they were made in Muzzleloader magazine. We also use the homemade knives from TOW too.

Now, what I'm trying to figure out is what's the best way o carry it!

Since you asked, I'll tell you what I'm doing:
I use Dutch's Dry lube system.
I soak 1.75 in. wide strips of my chosen patch material in 7:1 Water:Ballistol and allow to dry overnight. Same strips are used for both my 40 and 50 caliber rifles. I could use less material for the 40...probably use less for both, but I don't want to have to keep up with 2 different sets of patch material, and frankly...the cost of "wasted" material is too insignificant to worry about. I would also note that having well over the minimum amount of material makes setting the ball at the muzzle consistently much easier. I Cut at the muzzle. My patch knife is my Father's "skinning knife" that has been in my family since well before I was born. (I like using it to maintain that connection with Dad). It's one of the old German Solingen blades and is kept sharp enough to shave with. The material is cut cleanly with a single pass of the blade..no "sawing".
This works for me...other's experience may differ.

swathdiver said:

Now, what I'm trying to figure out is what's the best way to carry it!

Click to expand...

I carry mine in a neck sheath around my neck.
snake-eyes :hatsoff:

I cut my pillow ticking strips in about a 1" width, maybe a slight bit bigger. It covers the ball well even if I don't put the ball exactly in the middle of it when I place the ball over it. It doesn't matter if you get too wide because you cut it off at the muzzle so it always ends up being the same amount of patch around the ball. If you cut them too narrow, then you have the problem of not engulfing the ball sufficiently.

I don't tear mine. I use my wife's green cutting board and her razor sharp cutting wheel. I'll follow the lines for consistency and I'll stack multiple layers of material on top of each other before I run the cutter up it. It will easily cut 3 to 4 layers of material at once.

I'll start the cut a few inches in and roll the wheel towards me to make a 3" long or so starter cut. Then I'll put the wheel in that cut; hold on to the back end of he material; and push it straight to the end in one smooth motion. This keeps me from bumping my fingers against the wheel as I anchor the layers of material in place to make the cut. Bumping your fingers against that wheel will give you a razor cut (ask me how I know) so I've found this method avoids that and cuts a lot of material very quickly.

I also use the same method to cut flannel cleaning patches that I keep in my shooting box. I cut those a little bigger and cross cut them into actual squares, but you can cut up a yard of flannel material in about 3 minutes. It's really quick and beats tearing or cutting with scissors.

At the muzzle I use a neck knife made out of an Old Hickory paring knife with an antler handle. I keep it in rawhide sheath hanging around my neck. A past member of the forum, "tg", included it when I bought my Early Lancaster rifle from him years ago.

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
Dan

Be aware that there are two thicknesses of "ticking". Last purchase I got blue striped "ACA Ticking" at Jo-Ann's store. It's thicker (0.018") and stiffer until it gets washed. Stay away from less than 100% cotton.

BartSr

The blue ticking may be more of a mattress ticking while the red is typically thinner and for pillows. I've shot a lot of the blue through a TC 50 for years, but it is a pain to load due to the tight fit. It is accurate though. I recently started using more of the thinner red ticking due to a couple of rifles that load easier with it. I might give up a tiny bit of accuracy, but it sure is easier to load.

To all;
There is no defined difference in the thickness of "ticking" material in regards to color.
Red,Blue,Green,Purple or Pink w/flowers matters not. Even bolt to bolt of fabric at the same store a year apart will not mean it's the same thickness.
The only way to know is to measure it with micrometers or calipers.

With all due respect necchi but there are differences between mattress ticking (heavier weight) and pillow ticking - unfortunately many fabric stores sell both types under the term pillow ticking....as for measuring the thickness - Never used a mic in my life I just by what is available just like they did 150-200 years ago (it the finest accuracy s important than do the measuring, but otherwise....and FWIW I've one my share of matches over the years.
When I hear folks talk about measuring their patching material I always get this image of Old Gabe walking up to the trader's tent with mic in hand and asks to measuere some cloth...... :shocked2:

Your right, there is certainly a difference in mattress and pillow ticking that's for sure,
My comment is about "Color",, folks seem to get stuck on that.
Your right again, Old Gabe got what he got,, but he probably spent a bit of time shooting to figure out any changes his new cloth made and adjusted properly.

Folks today will spend time on a forum arguing that Blue ticking is better then Red ticking unless you get it at Walmart instead of Joannes.

Personally I gave up the idea that "Ticking" is the alpha and omega of patching material long ago and haven't bought any except for a lining for a wool gun case for over 20yrs.
You can guess what this stuff is, and I can get it in many thicknesses;



That stuff happens to be .020.

I find that patches cut from the knee area often load easier, somtimes that taken from the backside does as well. Depends on the source. :grin: