Pietta 1858 loading catch stuck

Hello,

I just picked up a Pietta 1858 Army. This is my first BP revolver, and I'm having some trouble getting past the first step.

I'm trying to release the loading lever, but the catch won't move. It's supposed to move toward the rear, right? It seems completely stuck. I can move it side-to-side a bit in the barrel catch, so it's not stuck there.

I don't want to force/break anything, so I haven't yet taken a pair of pliers to it to give me more grip.

Any ideas?

Fred

Yes, the ketch does move to the rear. Try soaking the ketch in penetrating oil overnight and try it again. If you use the pliers cushion the jaws with several layers of masking tape ,duct tape or something so you don't booger up the metal and bluing. It might be better to take a small piece of hardwood or Teflon and make a punch that's notched out to strike both shoulders of the ketch simultaneously. This might be better because one good slip with the pliers can make the gun ugly real quick!

Soak it good with a penetrating oil and then use a strip of leather in a good set of pliers to move it directly to the rear.
It probably has some bluing debris in the clearance slot that keeps it from retracting fully and clearing the catch hook on the barrel.
It (hook) may need a file stroke or two also to make it work smoothly once you get it loose.
I'm looking at mine as I type this.

Penetrating oil applied! We'll see what it's like tomorrow. It sure is a beauty...

Fred

I got a bit impatient and tried it after an hour or so. Didn't budge, so I protected everything well and gave it a light shove with the pliers. Success! Took a little bit to work it so it was totally free, but it's very smooth now.

Now, what's the best way to clean off all that oil? I assume I want some just to keep the rust off, but I don't have a good feel for how much...

Thanks for the help!

Fred

Blow it off with a compressor or computer compressed air can and re-lube with a good grade of gun oil. Just a film not drenched.
The air drives out and off the excess where it can be wiped off with a rag or patch.

Sounds good. Any suggestions on the lube?

Fred

Fred Patton said:

Sounds good. Any suggestions on the lube?

Fred

Click to expand...

Not many commercial ones out there anymore.
But you have Bore Butter and wonderlube.

After done shooting and cleaning to put away, you can use those also, or any old every day gun oil.
Regardless of which you use, you will still need to clean the chambers before loading again.
If you use a petroleum based lube in the barrel, you will need to clean it also.
Plain old rubbing alcohol works just fine for cleaning, home, range or in the field.
Have fun shooting your new pistola!

When talking about lubes you'll probably get a dozen different answers. I have been using a light mineral oil on mine for years , others will tell you Remoil and other name brand gun oils, but mineral oil is cheaper and the base for most other gun oils anyway.

Perhaps you already know this but because this Remington is new to you I'll go thru the steps to remove the cylinder.

1. Place the hammer at half cock.

2, Drop the loading lever so that it clears the front of the cylinder pin T head.

3. Pull the T head forward until the cylinder pin releases the cylinder.

4. Drop the cylinder out the right side of the frame while point the barrel away from you.

That's all pretty self evident as you play around with your (unloaded) gun.
Now, for the reason I am writing this.

To reassemble the cylinder into the frame:

1. With the hammer at half cock, make sure the end of the cylinder pin is not sticking into the area where the cylinder goes.

2. Place the cylinder into the frame opening from the right side.
As you do this, begin rotating the cylinder in a clockwise direction (with the barrel pointed away from you).
Keep on pushing and rotating and the cylinder will move into place.

3. Insert the cylinder pin and close the loading lever to retain it.

More than a few people become frustrated because if the cylinder is just pushed straight into the frame it gets hung up on the cylinder rotating hand that is sticking out from the recoil shield area.
Rotating the cylinder allows the ratchet on the rear of the cylinder to catch the hand and push it back out of the way.

Have fun.

Zonie said:

To reassemble the cylinder into the frame:

1. With the hammer at half cock, make sure the end of the cylinder pin is not sticking into the area where the cylinder goes.

2. Place the cylinder into the frame opening from the right side.
As you do this, begin rotating the cylinder in a clockwise direction (with the barrel pointed away from you).
Keep on pushing and rotating and the cylinder will move into place.

3. Insert the cylinder pin and close the loading lever to retain it.

More than a few people become frustrated because if the cylinder is just pushed straight into the frame it gets hung up on the cylinder rotating hand that is sticking out from the recoil shield area.
Rotating the cylinder allows the ratchet on the rear of the cylinder to catch the hand and push it back out of the way.

Click to expand...

Yes, I definitely was wondering about that. I found a couple of videos out there showing the process, but somehow your step 2 wasn't covered. Makes sense and works perfectly. Thanks!

Fred

I've seen the Bore Butter and Wonderlube discussed elsewhere, though for light oiling mineral oil makes sense. I was kind of thinking that BB was mostly for packing over the load, but sounds like it's pretty general purpose.

Thanks!

Fred