Mink Oil for Shoes?

To no one in particular;

Before we start down the road that Petroleum based lubes are all wrong or all right for that matter let's get things straight.

It is known that heavy amounts of Petroleum oil and Petroleum packing grease left in the bore when a rile is fired with BP of the replicates the resulting deposits will become a hard almost tar like substance that fills rifling and plugs flash channels. That hard stuff can be very difficult to remove.

And not all oils and/or grease is 100% like a petroleum oil.
Ballistol is Mineral oil based, but the Mineral oil in that product is "severely treaded with water" or Hydrolized oil that readily mixes with water.

Axel Grease of old was heavily based with animal fats, and Water Pump grease is Lithium based.

While many use a gun oil to protect their bores after cleaning, everyone uses some means to remove all or most of the oil before shooting, the factor is how each individual treats his rifle bore and how much oil they use. Some just need a dry patch or two, others need to use a solvent to remove oils,,

I just wanted to add this before new guys read it and get the idea that any or all petroleum oil's and greases will be fine for lubes and end up with fouled bores and flash channels from excess oils/grease left in the rifle.

Not that I mind, I have bought and refurbished many a rifle that's sold because it won't shoot well, only to clean the gunk from the bore and re-sell it at a tidy little profit, :wink:

When folks say, "Don't shoot your muzzleloader if there is any petroleum based oils in your bore.", what they should say is,
"Don't shoot your muzzleloader if their is a wet coating of petroleum based oils in your bore."

If the petroleum oil in your bore is wiped out so that there is a very thin, almost dry coating of it in the bore it won't cause any hard fouling.

(to whom it may concern)
What I can recall from the Mad Monk a number of years ago is that there are various "families" (can't recall the correct term) with different structures, and some will polymerize with sulphur and heat producing the tar that has sometimes been observed, while the others do not. The questions are: which types will polymerize (I can't remember) and what types of chemicals are in any particular product under discussion. Experience with a product bypasses the need for knowledge of the specifics in organic chemistry.

Regards,
Joel

I asked this question several years ago and thought I was going to get lynched just for asking the question!! LOL! Apparently the fear is that the petro based lubes will leave a fouling in the barrel that's hard to remove. I only use mink oil in my hunting loads so that no fluid will leach into my powder when the rifle stays loaded for weeks or months at a time. I bought a tin of Tracks mink oil several years ago and still have more than 2/3rds of it left. For every day plinking and target shooting I use 20/10 WSW fluid as my patch lube. Very cheap and works great both as a patch lube and a bore cleaner. FRJ

Mr. BWLVR,
What is 20/10 WSW fluid?
Best Wishes

Same as above. What does that mean? (I hate acronyms.)

WSW is windshield washer fluid...
http://www.amazon.com/WASHER-CONCE...64?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1382032721&sr=1-1

Mr. bpd303,
Thank you.
Best Wishes

Only tried petroleum product 1 time in my .54 rifle with 80 gr. 2f--it was actually gun oil, and the patches were burning laying on the ground ! Never did that again as I didn't want to cause a forest/brush fire.....tom

OK, I just have to tell this one. A few years back....thirty or so...I was having a cup of joe with a lady that worked for me. Her place, I had given her a ride home> Her teenage son comes in, checks out the kitchen, and takes off for the door, saying "don't know what you are cooking, but I'm having dinner with the girlfriend" The ladies work boots were in the oven on low with a good coating of Mink oil. We had a good laugh, when we realized why the boy had taken off so quick.