Molasses against rust

Why not use molasses straight up without dilution?

40 Flint said:

Come on guys. Think!

I said molasses is used in feed - NOT that left over molasses and rust was used in sweet feed.

Point was that the molasses and water is not a problem and there's plenty of places with rust and rusty metal laying on the ground and in some places the iron ore is so prevalent that natural rust discolors the water. So the resultant mixture of molasses/water/rust should not be any kind of an environmental issue.

I'll keep mine for the next project.

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Point is: the whole thing is - excuse me but... but.. stoopid. yes. there are so many ways of doinig the same thing correctly that this thread is only going to create controversey and problems for those who don't know any better..

That is my humble but experienced opinion.

When this topic came up a few months ago I was curious as I had never heard of this method. It seems that auto restorers have been using this method for ever as it is much cheaper than the other chemicals.

I am pretty sure they used the feed store variety. Good Luck! Geo. T.

hanshi said:

I grew up on molasses and ho-cakes (how many remember those delicacies?). I've eaten the sulfured and unsulfured and it don't matter none to me. All are good. :v

This rust removal thing is a brand new cat in my barn! I always said I'd rather wear out than rust out; might not have to do either, now. :haha:

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I thought everybody ate ho cake reglar like :thumbsup: we like ours with good ol' cane syrup

swathdiver said:

Why not use molasses straight up without dilution?

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There is a chemistry answer for this. It was explained to me, but I am not very scientific in my thought process so it didn't stick as I didn't understand some of the terms.

But it matters. At full strength it will not work as well as a diluted solution.

Does molasses Remove rust, or just sloooooooooooowwwww iiiiiiiiitttttt downnnnnnnnn..........

:blah: sorry. Had to do it.

I just got around to reading this thread, got some chuckles out of it for several reasons---

First, molasses is fairly commonly used by guys who restore antique tractors & machinery, to get rid of rust on huge parts and help free seized engines. It's a low-cost alternative for modern chemicals that would otherwise be pretty expensive on parts of that size (to give an idea, the flywheel on a 1912 Hart-Parr 30-60 tractor weighs 1100 lbs, and the pistons and rods are around 200 lbs. apiece).

Secondly, if there's no other chemicals in the parts being soaked, why not mix it with barley or oats and feed it to cattle? It would just be molasses, water, and iron oxide. Molasses & water are in every lick tub I've ever bought, and iron oxide is commonly added to cattle mineral---what do you think gives the bag of mineral its red color? If there's antifreeze or oil, then I'd wouldn't do it, but otherwise I don't see the harm.

All in all, though, it's kind of a slow way to get rid of rust on small gun parts. Naval jelly or something similar would work better (and much faster), or an electrolysis tank would really get it.

Rod

Take a look at this for instructions for both methods:
http://www.antiqueautoranch.com/montana500/adrian/rust.html

Rod

Well, it's been two days now with straight molasses in the barrels. Will check them out tonight after dinner.

After two days most of the rust was gone and it even removed some spots on the outside of the barrels. Seeing that, I mixed up a new batch at 5-1 and tossed both barrels back in and the frame of another about 3 hours ago.

Just checked it and the case hardening and all the bluing is gone! :rotf: :cursing: :idunno:

Ohh, the rust is gone too. You know I read up on this on here and several other websites and never saw a word of caution about bluing and case-hardening being removed.

Got a very stubborn screw on another Colt with beautiful case hardening. So far, PB Blaster hasn't hurt the finish nor has it loosened the stripped and stubborn trigger and bolt spring screw. Even dumped it in boiling water earlier to no avail. Would tranny fluid mess up the case-hardening finish?

this is a cast iron pot lid that sat outside for at least 7 years, fresh out of the molasses, at about 7 - 1 ratio. I was still scrubbing it down with scotch bright pads. then a light coating of lard and a few hours on the grill outside at about 400 degrees.

swathdiver said:

... Would tranny fluid mess up the case-hardening finish?

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Transmission fluid or any kind of oil won't damage the bluing or the case hardened colors.

They are all forms of oxidation (rust) so anything that will remove rust will remove them.

This includes Coke and Pepsi (or beer) which all contain acid so don't spill your beverage on them.

swathdiver said:

After two days most of the rust was gone and it even removed some spots on the outside of the barrels. Seeing that, I mixed up a new batch at 5-1 and tossed both barrels back in and the frame of another about 3 hours ago.

Just checked it and the case hardening and all the bluing is gone! :rotf: :cursing: :idunno:

Ohh, the rust is gone too. You know I read up on this on here and several other websites and never saw a word of caution about bluing and case-hardening being removed.

Got a very stubborn screw on another Colt with beautiful case hardening. So far, PB Blaster hasn't hurt the finish nor has it loosened the stripped and stubborn trigger and bolt spring screw. Even dumped it in boiling water earlier to no avail. Would tranny fluid mess up the case-hardening finish?

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Try Kroil. Mike

How about acetone and power steering fluid mixed 50/50? Will that remove the case hardening?

Are you wanting to remove just the color or the case hardening?

Fleener

fleener said:

Are you wanting to remove just the color or the case hardening?

Fleener

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Neither! Just a stuck trigger and bolt spring screw. The case hardening on this Uberti '61 Navy is quite handsome and removing it is the last thing I want to happen!

I already messed up the bluing and case hardening on the ASM Walker and don't want a repeat due to my ignorance.

Basically a acid will remove rust.

Bluing, browning and the colors developed from heat like you see with color case hardening are all a form of rust.

Oils and other petroleum products like paint thinner will not remove rust.
Alcohol, lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK, etc. are not acidic so they will not remove rust.

Lemon juice, orange juice grapefruit juice, any carbonated beverage, vinegar, tomato juice and other "tart" foods are all acidic and will remove rust. Molasses apparently is also acidic which is why it is sometimes used to remove rust.

Humm Naval Jelly is a rust remover. Most commercial rust removers are penetrating petro based compounds. I can't imagine covering a ships hull with Black Strap non-sulfur molasses. :idunno:

Thanks Zoni.

The molasses when used 100% did not remove the bluing from the barrel but when mixed 7:1 with water, it came right off along with the case colors.

Alright, going to dip my frame in the acetone/power steering to get that screw out...

actually you want the sulfated molasses