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Adam, you & Shaney did a great job on that 'un!
I can't wait for him to get started on mine. I'm getting daily status updates & it's not even started yet!

We gotta get together for another hog hunt sometime.
 
She shoots great. Opening day she did her part I did not do mine and missed the buck. Thanks blackpowderscout you did a sweet job on " one nut"
 
That's the name I got for it. When he was up here giving me the flintlock the bolt that is just for looks came off. Therefore I call it one nut. It sounds better then one bolt.
 
Which bolt was the "dummy" bolt and why did it need to be a cosmetic bolt?
 
Something about the ramrod hitting the front bolt of the lock. Blackpowderscout know more then I.
 
It was due to the way the ramrod hole was pre-inlet. It neccesitated that we do it that way after trying other fixes.

This kit and another one I've seen recently have discouraged me from ordering any of the pre-inlet stuff from TOTW again. It's just not very good all around the way a Chambers kit is. Too many things like this ramrod hole's location, the stock was very badly warped at the muzzle, the beaver tails were HORRENDOUS and were removed completely, the other kit has the entire ramrod channel off center by a large degree....

But like many "1 nut" guns, it functions just fine and no-one is any wiser by looking at it. :wink:
 
Layout, layout,layout. Ive put togethrt more than a few of these TOW sets and that was not really an issue.If anything, the web betwteen barrel an RR channel was too much. Ive built from blanks and had more issues,
They might as well not even bother carving that parts set as they sell it.Ive lost it all on every one I did. If you want slim lock panels it needs to be removed.

Enjoy your fusil! :wink:
 
The RR hole in this stock deflected upwards to such a degree that there was just no way to avoid getting into the RR hole. I thought I had it off enough to be able to thin down the bolt for clearance but in the end it was too much thinning. So that bolt became decorative in nature. I cut the head off and drilled a little ways into it, then soldered the shank of a wood screw into the hole. So it could hold the sideplate in. I guess I didn't get as good of a solder bond as I thought I did. In my defense, we were on a bit of a time constraint at that point.

I'm finishing up an English Fowler precarve now that is going to be a gift as well. Without going into too much detail let's just say there were numerous problems. The most difficult of which is the RR hole.
The Barrel is centered in the stock
photo1.jpg


the RR is centered (or very very close to it)at the muzzle but fully 3/16" or maybe a hair more to the right of center at the entry. The channel is straight so by the time it gets to the breech it's probably well in excess of 1/4". I think they didn't have the stock aligned straight in the machine when they routed the groove for the RR
photo.jpg


totally unacceptable AFAIC. In hindsight it would have been much easier to work from a blank. I have spent more time working around quirks in the precarve than I would have spent roughing in a blank. Plus, I would have been able to dictate the drop and some cast off.

As far as I am able this is the last precarve I'll be working with unless I build a duplicator.
 
I understand, I have been able to remove metal from the bolt and install it then put the RR in, it does not always work though, also is the oct section of that barrel straight or is it just the angle I am looking at? This kind of "fouls" up the whole architecture and appearance of the area from the tang to the band and looks a bit chunky compared to a tapered oct section, just a minor thing in the overal world of ML building as most would not notice the difference.
 
It's tapered in the Octagonal section too. Both guns were built around good Colerain barrels.

On the english gun I'm working on now I've been able to shape the lower forestock and angle the TG in a way that makes the way off center RR hole less noticeable but it's still wonky looking.
 
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