Recent content by ZUG

Dixon's should be about 1 hour from Sussex county. I use to live in Mercer county and it was a 1.5 hour drive for me.

Try this link <>

The confusion on silver solder and silver braze continues :doh:-- here is a You-Tube video that describes the difference and how this person does it - a very good description - start at time 9:36 in the video <>

If you did sweating of copper pipe joints with tin/silver solder then it will be no different to sweat on the two tenons that came off. As for their location there should be some remnants of the original location that you can use to locate the tenons to. If not then use the existing tenon to...

You did a very nice job --- The tooling and staining came out just great. It is hand stitched or machine? The stitch spacing is very consistent.

I have had this happen to me on several occasions while shooting my .45 caliber cap lock with 60 gr of 3F Goex. The weather temps were in the high 50's to low 60's clear and crisp. I was told that it was a good thing as my load was balanced and that I was getting the max velocity for that load...

I worked as a mechanical engineer for a well known aerospace company for 44 years and we used that Hysol product a LOT. Mostly it use was for support tooling and fixtures but not on flight items. It has a very good bond strength when used properly. For my money I would not use any epoxy for this...

The first thing I would do is to soak that powder charge to prevent any accidental discharge - as you said - "I am extremely reluctant to fire it. Ball is halfway down the barrel and there was a large powder charge put in first."

Yup -- those grips sure do look good😉

Yes -- that's why I noted Stay Brite because of it's properties. Silver braze is high temp stuff - above 1100 degrees and is not considered a solder - below 700 degrees is considered a solder and melts at low temp. A lot of folks don't use the right terms when describing brazing and soldering...

Very nicely done😉. Dixie Gun works sold a derringer pistol kit back in the early 70's along with fully assembled ones made in Spain (I think). They were cheaply made but were fun to shoot as a novelty item.

I use to rivet on the rib but no more. One went ok and the other the stop collar moved and I drilled into the barrel leading to a trashed barrel. I stopped using rivets or screws since then. I soft solder my ribs on using Stay Brite with their flux Stay Clean. this is how I do it; Ram Rod Rib...

You got the wrong Hepburn --- try Katharine Hepburn ----

I have used clay and heavy paper to cast nose caps and had the clay melt and run all over the gun. It was a mess to remove.

I'd clean it up with a file & emery paper and leave it alone. I'd also buy a new gun and shoot them both. When the first one bites the dust save it for parts if any are worth saving.