I have a T/C New Englander in .50 with the 1:48" twist and a 12 gauge barrel that was straight cylinder bore. Had it jug choked.
Great little carbine. I used mine during regular big-game season for many years in a shotgun-slug only region where m/l rifles were also allowed. Took quite a few...
Copper or aluminum tubing of just under bore diamater pushed down the bore and over the brush and then the whole thing pulled out. (Member Ramrod's idea).
I buggerred a Renegade breech pulling it to get a stuck brush out in the early 1980's and haven't used a bore brush in a muzzleloader...
I use boiled linseed oil to saturate the holes in a block. I did an experinemt and left a block (and hook-breech barrel) loaded for almost a full year. Fired and reloaded from the block.
Not the best group. But the "grease lube" (Moose Snot) worked and hadn't hurt the cotton patching...
That is mattress ticking (no lie). The rule of thumb I like for traditional muzzleloaders is that if you can seat it on the powder it will come out again when fired with no problem. You are swaging the ball, so soft lead is a preference. Accuracy is what your rifle choses, not a statistical...
This Thanksgiving save a turkey leg bone.
They make great powder measures and are already light and hollow. I usually saw-off the ends and add a wood plug rather than leave the "knuckle"
How about we talk about using spit for patches?
I try to moderate in moderation . . . but this original thread wasn't about inalienable rights or individual freedoms. Use what you like, but the question was about spit patching.
Welcome from New York State. Hopefully there is still something in the water in SE PA that will get your longrifle craftmanship talents to follow the Masters.