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Recent content by Steve2md

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  1. S

    Historically Incorrect, or (A Story of Thread Counting and Delrin Rods)

    Briar is good back to the 1400s, bone and soapstone as well. Tobacco use on all continents where it grows is known earlier, but the manner of consumption is up for debate.
  2. S

    Historically Incorrect, or (A Story of Thread Counting and Delrin Rods)

    Never?!?! Why!? I’ll be attempting to forge out my first barrel (pistol) soon. If she works well, I’ll be hand cutting rifling for the second one..... also....made in USA
  3. S

    Mild steel for knives

    I appreciate the lead. I only do stock removal on 1 line of blades and they are 52100 steel (I have the blanks water jetted so it’s just beveling and heat treating to speed things up). Everything else I make is forged, so shipping annealed doesn’t really matter to me.
  4. S

    Mild steel for knives

    The Japanese folded steel multiple times to homogenize poor quality raw materials, and for no other reason. car/truck leaf springs are commonly 5160 or a variant of that steel. Excellent blade steel, but a pain under the hammer. axles are commonly 4140. Excellent for hammers and punches/drifts...
  5. S

    Max Charge For 1860?

    Another thing to be aware of is frame material. Brass frames are a bit faster to wear out with heavy loads.
  6. S

    How Do Y’All Break In Your New C&B Revolvers?

    After inspecting a new/new to me bp revo to make sure fit and function are correct, I fire 3 or 4 cylinders worth of low charge (15-20 gn) shots through it and decide what needs done from there. For me, I will often upgrade nipples, trigger spring, and do a little buffing on contact surfaces to...
  7. S

    Max Charge For 1860?

    Max charge on any bp revolver will be whatever will fit in the chamber and still properly seat the ball. With a round ball on an 1860 or an 1851, that's a full cylinder of powder. It is physically impossible to overcharge a bp revolver unless you are not using bp or an appropriate substitute...
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