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Recent content by Kevin Houlihan

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  1. K

    And it begins...

    Yup...the rear bolt screws into the bolster. The front bolt screws into the plate ahead of the main spring. Depending on exactly where you place it, the front bolt may end up in the blank open area in front of the frizzen spring, but it may also end up being behind and hidden by the spring...
  2. K

    And it begins...

    There’s a ton of room for the rear lock bolt. The bolt will screw into the bolster to the rear of the screw that attaches the bolster to the plate. Next drill your front lock bolt so it will screw into the lock plate in front of the main spring. Be sure to miss the barrel and the ramrod...
  3. K

    The Gun Works Muzzleloading Emporium and box lock actions

    I'm sure The Gun Works folks are as good as everyone says. However, a word of caution...these actions are made by Allen Mfg. which hasn't been in business for quite a few years. I would check with the seller and try and determine if there is a supply of spare parts available before I purchased...
  4. K

    Iron Nitrate assistance - Woodsrunner Kit

    That's exactly how it's supposed to look. Give it another coat of the nitric acid, blush with heat and apply finnish. It's going to look great!! Kevin
  5. K

    Repair this barrel lug?

    Solder is too soft to use to fill the hole. Either replace the whole lug or do as Eric suggested and solder a piece of steel to the thin part and re-drill
  6. K

    Patchbox on Kibler Woodsrunner

    Try taking a couple of swipes with a piece of sandpaper on either the front of the box cavity or the front of the lid.
  7. K

    Barrel Thickness and Dovetail Depth

    After filing/sanding the dovetail and the tenon, I usually spray both with Brakleen to make sure they're squeaky clean before soldering.
  8. K

    Barrel Thickness and Dovetail Depth

    Also, the dovetails don't have to be .050" deep. .030" should be fine. Much past the entry pipe, the wood isn't supporting the barrel....the barrel is supporting the wood. I've seen round barreled smooth bores with dovetailed front sights on walls that I thought were too thin to dovetail...
  9. K

    Barrel Thickness and Dovetail Depth

    I'd solder it on. I use Sta-Brite solder. I've got guns 30 years old with soldered tenons that have never loosened. Kevin
  10. K

    Ram rod wont go all the in....im stumped!

    If you use a patch wet with a liquid lube the bore is cleaned to some degree every time you load. I use a wet patch when loading and can easily load 20 shots using the ramrod that Jim includes with the SMR. I use Mr. Flintlock's Lube, but I'm sure there are other lubes that will work. Kevin
  11. K

    Ram rod wont go all the in....im stumped!

    Can you push a wire or coat hanger or anything to see where the RR hole ends? I had to sand my ramrod quite a bit to get it to bottom in the hole. Check before you call Jim.
  12. K

    Ram rod wont go all the in....im stumped!

    Sand the rod and tip until it fits all the way in. My Kibler SMR was the same way. You can rub pencil lead on the ramrod down near where the tip meets the rod, install the rod until it stops and pull it back out. The pencil lead will be rubbed off where the rod was tight in the hole. Good...
  13. K

    Max Brown on my Kibler

    I'm not sure which video he uses the JAX products in. It's the same process. Large parts like the butt plate, barrel and trigger guard, I wiped the product on. Small parts like ramrod pipes, lock parts and pistol trigger guard, I put in a plastic container and poured the solution over them...
  14. K

    Engraving Question; Parallel cross hatched line patterns

    Don't get hung-up on perfect spacing. Mark out your lines using a set of dividers, ruler or whatever, draw the line w/ a SHARP pencil and cut it. At first it may look like manure, but practice makes it better. We had .5mm mechanical pencils and were taught (told) to sharpen the lead before...
  15. K

    Engraving Question; Parallel cross hatched line patterns

    I took a week-long hammer & chisel engraving class at Cabin Creek Muzzleloading w/ Brad and Shane Emig a few years ago. Most of the first day and the beginning of the 2nd was spent learning to properly sharpen a graver and then cutting straight parallel lines...over and over and over and over...
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