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Recent content by Dane

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  1. D

    Back Lash? and adjusting Back Lash on set triggers?

    Cowboy, Basically, back lash is "slack" in the operation of the tripping trigger. In other words, no spring pressure on that trigger till it is set. This allows the lock to be cocked without setting the trigger. That is the purpose of the rear set screw on the triggers. Some don't have that...
  2. D

    Aqua Fortis color vs Chambers stain

    I just see no reason to go through the process of neutralizing AF. Soaking a nice piece of wood in baking soda and water, is just not what I want to spend my time doing. I don't know how much residual acid is left in AF, but there is not enough to worry about in ferric nitrate. When it's...
  3. D

    Aqua Fortis color vs Chambers stain

    Nothing brings out figure like AF. However, you get the color you get. It's a chemical thing. AF reacts with the tannins in the wood. I use ferric nitrate.... no need to neutralize. Properly done, it will NOT turn green. The nice thing.... you can change the inherent tones with alcohol...
  4. D

    Building Track's Colonial Longrifle

    Suggestion.... don't use that trigger and plate as provided. Use plate and blade separately, and pin in the stock as high as possible. Much nicer trigger pull.
  5. D

    Mixing Ferric nitrate crystals

    I think it's important to use distilled water. No water treatment chemicals to muddy things up.
  6. D

    cleaning pinned triggergroup

    A lock MUST be inlet flush to the side of the barrel. If it is, there is no reason to get fouling inside the trigger/ lock area.
  7. D

    Traditions Hawken Woodsmen

    Said he wanted a flintlock. Implied a reliable one....... that's a Kibler.
  8. D

    Forestock shaping

    Your forestock should taper to a very narrow edge at the rr channel, as well as the barrel channel. You gotta put that fat girl on a diet. Use the ⅓ and ½ dimensions from your book, and taper it to the thin edges on both sides. I've never seen the Greenville book, but it must have some photos...
  9. D

    Forestock shaping

    Your forestock should taper to a very narrow edge at the rr channel, as well as the barrel channel. You gotta put that fat girl on a diet. Use the ⅓ and ½ dimensions from your book, and taper it to the thin edges on both sides. I've never seen the Greenville book, but it must have some photos...
  10. D

    Traditions Hawken Woodsmen

    Save your money, and get a good lock. Let's face it.... the most important parts of a rifle are the lock and the barrel. The Kibler kit has a Chambers lock, and a Rice barrel, with a white lightning liner. I put mine together in 6 hours. There's nothings no more frustrating than a flinter that...
  11. D

    BARREL CHANNEL INLET

    I still enjoy the building process. I've built some where around 100 guns to date. I still don't waste 20 to 30 hours inletting a barrel and ramrod channel. Not worth that $100 it costs to have done perfectly by Mr Rase.
  12. D

    BARREL CHANNEL INLET

    There's no better than David Rase. BUT, you must lay it out. Draw out full length profile, marking barrel, web, ramrod hole, and cast off. You'll have to do that eventually anyway. Then cut of excess wood on the profile. No need to pay shipping for wood that will eventually be removed. If...
  13. D

    Long rifle ID - 99% certainly modern

    Definitely a contemporary piece. A nice amateur job. Not up to modern builder standards, but a nice rifle none the less. Rifle seems well put together, carving is rather amateurish, but all in all, if it functions well, shoot it and enjoy.
  14. D

    Long rifle ID - 99% certainly modern

    Tac, Without actually seeing it, it's hard to tell. You have to be a member to view the pics. Generally, the name engraved on the barrel is the builder. Initials on a wrist piece, comb of buttplate, or other inlay is whom it was built for. I guess I'll set up an account so I can see what you got.
  15. D

    Suggestions on this nose cap fix?

    Davemuzz, I've been quietly reading, and biting my tongue. To this point, I've seen other posts of yours that seem to indicate you tend to ask for help for repairs, rather than seek to learn the proper way to approach a job first. I think that's why you got the jab about educational materials...
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