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Stuck Nipple

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Take the bbl out of the stock. Make sure the gun is unloaded. Ramrod bounce test!
Chip as much crust around nipple as you can.
Take your small creme brûlée torch, and heat the breech around the nipple until it smokes.
Plug nipple with tooth pick.
Fill barrel with Kroil or other penetrant for 1 inch.
Let stand vertical for a day.
Repeat daily for a week.
Remove nipple with good fitting wrench.
 
I don't have any nipple wrenches that are tough enough for a badly corroded and stuck nipple. Old English motorcycles have taught me the virtues of Kroil, heat, custom ground impact grade sockets and tips, hand impact drivers, pneumatic and electric impact wrenches, E-Z outs, thread taps and Helicoils in that order of escalation. I would not be afraid to destroy the nipple by impact driving or drilling, then re-tapping threads or Helicoiling if necessary. Truth be known, that threaded connection is not that highly stressed. Its biggest duty is to not let the hammer drive the nipple into the bolster.
 
Kroil hasn’t worked for me on one of my revolver nipples, and it has been soaking for days! I haven’t tried heating the nipple because the nipple is an inside radius and its expansion would only seat it harder (and I’m not inclined to heat the entire cylinder). I hadn’t thought about a rap with a hammer to shock the rust free so I may try that. I think I destroyed a Slyxprings nipple wrench on it and am expecting a new nipple wrench from TOtW today.
the best tester there is project farm did a massive test on PO and kroil was not good at all. believe it or not good old liquid wrench was second in the test
 
Kroil hasn’t worked for me on one of my revolver nipples, and it has been soaking for days! I haven’t tried heating the nipple because the nipple is an inside radius and its expansion would only seat it harder (and I’m not inclined to heat the entire cylinder). I hadn’t thought about a rap with a hammer to shock the rust free so I may try that. I think I destroyed a Slyxprings nipple wrench on it and am expecting a new nipple wrench from TOtW today.
Machinists did a penetrating oil showdown and the winner was 50/50 ATF/Acetone
Here's a link to the chart and the ones tested (Includes Kroil)
http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Penetrating Oil Showdown.pdf
 
Do they, or wouldn’t it be nice if they made a socket type tool to remove old Rusty nipples? My traditional wrench won’t cut it. I think it’s an 11. This is an old 8 Gauge English Fowler…
Had that fight for two weeks plus with nipples...made a nipple wrench with a 5mm & a 3/16 1/4 inch socket. Screwed up the 5mm made the two cuts a little too deep. The Kroil & some heat with a lot of sweet talk cursing more heat & Kroil. PB blaster didn't seem to work, or maybe I didn't give it enough time.
 
If the nipple wrench socket doesn't work, try this.

I was presented with many a frozen fastener in my time as an automotive instructor. This method worked on everything that I can remember. We've all heard of the Eazy-Out tool where you drill a hole and drive this splined bit into the hole and presto! Trouble is, when you jam that extractor into the
hole, it expands the stuck bolt, wedging it in even tighter. Better is to drive a set of splines over the stuck fastener. Then, you are squeezing it away from the threads that it's stuck into. I always heat and Kroil the thing first and then drive a sacrificial 12-point socket over the outside and unscrew it by shocking your ratchet with a couple of hammer taps and unscrew it. They make a great set of tools that work like this but they are just too big for a percussion nipple.
Actually, such tools exist. Harbor freight used to have one that used the 1/4" hex drive bits. I used a 5mm nut driver bit and my Dremel tool to cut the recess to fit the nipple. I found this version on Amazon that would work. You will still need to make the bit to fit the nipple.

Of course, you still have to use penetrating solvents and such to start the removal process. The tool will turn a little bit as it is tapped with a hammer. The combination of the impact with the turning really does effectively loosen tight threaded fasteners.

https://www.amazon.com/product-revi...003-4a62-bb05-57338b907cee&pd_rd_i=B08434LLKP

The following picture is the Harbor Freight tool. The modified nut driver is at the top of the pictured tool. I have successfully removed several very tightly stuck nipples.
Impact Tool 02.JPG
 
Actually, such tools exist. Harbor freight used to have one that used the 1/4" hex drive bits. I used a 5mm nut driver bit and my Dremel tool to cut the recess to fit the nipple. I found this version on Amazon that would work. You will still need to make the bit to fit the nipple.

Of course, you still have to use penetrating solvents and such to start the removal process. The tool will turn a little bit as it is tapped with a hammer. The combination of the impact with the turning really does effectively loosen tight threaded fasteners.

https://www.amazon.com/product-revi...003-4a62-bb05-57338b907cee&pd_rd_i=B08434LLKP

The following picture is the Harbor Freight tool. The modified nut driver is at the top of the pictured tool. I have successfully removed several very tightly stuck nipples.
Actually, such tools exist. Harbor freight used to have one that used the 1/4" hex drive bits. I used a 5mm nut driver bit and my Dremel tool to cut the recess to fit the nipple. I found this version on Amazon that would work. You will still need to make the bit to fit the nipple.

Of course, you still have to use penetrating solvents and such to start the removal process. The tool will turn a little bit as it is tapped with a hammer. The combination of the impact with the turning really does effectively loosen tight threaded fasteners.

https://www.amazon.com/product-revi...003-4a62-bb05-57338b907cee&pd_rd_i=B08434LLKP

The following picture is the Harbor Freight tool. The modified nut driver is at the top of the pictured tool. I have successfully removed several very tightly stuck nipples.
View attachment 197082
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View attachment 197082
 
What is this and where did you get it? Also what is “a set of splines?”
"a set of splines" was Newtire's phrase in post #40. I presume Newtire was considering the case of a stuck bolt with an accessible hex head. The interior of a 12-point socket approximates a female spline if slightly under sized for the hex head. Always best to get the nipple out intact, but I am ever ready to escalate the fight to drilling especially if the head shears off, as it often does. I've never drilled a nipple, but would not hesitate to do so since a perfect pilot hole already exists.
 
"a set of splines" was Newtire's phrase in post #40. I presume Newtire was considering the case of a stuck bolt with an accessible hex head. The interior of a 12-point socket approximates a female spline if slightly under sized for the hex head. Always best to get the nipple out intact, but I am ever ready to escalate the fight to drilling especially if the head shears off, as it often does. I've never drilled a nipple, but would not hesitate to do so since a perfect pilot hole already exists.
Thanks TrophyGuy. Very helpful. I’ve got a micro extractor on order and I’m going to try that. Take care, Tom KC3QAC
 
"a set of splines" was Newtire's phrase in post #40. I presume Newtire was considering the case of a stuck bolt with an accessible hex head. The interior of a 12-point socket approximates a female spline if slightly under sized for the hex head. Always best to get the nipple out intact, but I am ever ready to escalate the fight to drilling especially if the head shears off, as it often does. I've never drilled a nipple, but would not hesitate to do so since a perfect pilot hole already exists.
Oh OK, I did read through some of the previous posts looking for a mention of splines but I guess I missed it. I think if I sheared off a nipple I'd be tempted to drill it out to where I could use an EZ out and not damage the original threads. Of course the danger there is if you break off the EZ out you have just made the problem worse.
 
Oh OK, I did read through some of the previous posts looking for a mention of splines but I guess I missed it. I think if I sheared off a nipple I'd be tempted to drill it out to where I could use an EZ out and not damage the original threads. Of course the danger there is if you break off the EZ out you have just made the problem worse.
Thanks Ed, as you may have noticed, I think this stuff is trivial, but when I can save time and money I will attempt to Do so. Regards, Tom KC3QAC
 
the best tester there is project farm did a massive test on PO and kroil was not good at all. believe it or not good old liquid wrench was second in the test
I’ve had a hard time finding liquid wrench penetrant locally (lots of chainsaw oil and other junk but no penetrant) so had to go to Amazon again - another week’s delay after the week waiting for kroil. The time consumed in waiting for shipping is really motivating me to find other measures.
 
I’ve had a hard time finding liquid wrench penetrant locally (lots of chainsaw oil and other junk but no penetrant) so had to go to Amazon again - another week’s delay after the week waiting for kroil. The time consumed in waiting for shipping is really motivating me to find other measures.
PB blaster should be in auto and hardware stores. I've had pretty good results with it.
 
I’ve had a hard time finding liquid wrench penetrant locally (lots of chainsaw oil and other junk but no penetrant) so had to go to Amazon again - another week’s delay after the week waiting for kroil. The time consumed in waiting for shipping is really motivating me to find other measures.
I get LW in walmart and the last time I was there they did not have any. strange
 
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