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Your reluctance to the grease gun and writing it off as a poor way to remove it when more damaging ways are recommended just baffles me.
I have not wrote off using grease. I have said that when this happens invert the gun on a better rod. Protect the barrel however you see fit, I failed to mention that, thought it went without saying, and put more load on the ball than any conventional ramming would.

It's just simpler as a first move and if a suitable rod is kept close by, say in a vehicle it might just save the day.
If all that fails then get the grease gun.
All this could be avoided with thumb started ball and patch combo with a good lube!
 
Don't depend on a wood or Delrin ramrod with glued or crimped on metal ends to pull a ball or seat a tight patched ball on the powder This could have been avoided had the OP been in possession of a good solid metal range rod.
 
With some of the things I have read over the years here, not all of it is sarcasm. Some folks should not have loaded guns.
Ummm, well, depends on the goal.
Some folks should not have loaded guns.
Yes, yes they should, and they should be given dynamite, toasters and hairdryers plugged in near water, and ropes and things to climb,,,,, they just shouldn't be allowed around other people with these things.


Oh, and alcohol, give them lots of alcohol along with that other stuff.
 
This original post and the problems resulting from his efforts suggest to me that what this sport (Muzzle loading firearms) really needs is for some enterprising machinist to make a short (1 inch adapter with a male nipple thread on one end and a common Zerk female fitting thread on the other end with a hex area bewreen the threaded ends out of heavy walled high pressure tubing and make a kit with a Zerk fitting and a combo nipple wrench/Zerk flat wrench to sell as a "Stuck ball removal kit"

Would someone that knows please post here the thread (metric and standard versions and also the thread for a standard Zerk fitting?
I think maybe It would be fairly easy to cobble up an adaptor using some Zerk fittings and and nipple and welding or soldering a short piece of 1/8" ID tubing between the two. I may see what I can do with what i have in the shop since I do have some small taps and dies, hint !, hint !
 
Since we are patiently waiting for the OP to source his parts or whatever to pump his gun full of grease, what about other creative solutions? Obviously it would be a bad idea to take a torch to it and melt it out with 120 grains of powder in there, but if you removed the nipple to dump almost all of the powder out, would whatever is left vent safely through the empty nipple hole? I guess a torch would ruin the finish on the barrel, but would it have any other negative side effects? What if you removed the nipple, found a plug that was threaded the same, dropped some dry ice into the hole, and then plugged it? Could you get enough in there to build up enough pressure to remove the ball?
 
This original post and the problems resulting from his efforts suggest to me that what this sport (Muzzle loading firearms) really needs is for some enterprising machinist to make a short (1 inch adapter with a male nipple thread on one end and a common Zerk female fitting thread on the other end with a hex area bewreen the threaded ends out of heavy walled high pressure tubing and make a kit with a Zerk fitting and a combo nipple wrench/Zerk flat wrench to sell as a "Stuck ball removal kit"

Would someone that knows please post here the thread (metric and standard versions and also the thread for a standard Zerk fitting?
I think maybe It would be fairly easy to cobble up an adaptor using some Zerk fittings and and nipple and welding or soldering a short piece of 1/8" ID tubing between the two. I may see what I can do with what i have in the shop since I do have some small taps and dies, hint !, hint !
https://askinglot.com/what-size-are-zerk-fittings
 
I guess a torch would ruin the finish on the barrel, but would it have any other negative side effects?

In my opinion if you heat a barrel hot enough to melt lead then the Proof marks on the barrel is no longer valid. The spot that was heated would no longer be proofed. I would not shoot a barrel that had been heated like that. If I had a barrel that was heated like that I would cut it apart and destroy it.
 
In my opinion if you heat a barrel hot enough to melt lead then the Proof marks on the barrel is no longer valid. The spot that was heated would no longer be proofed. I would not shoot a barrel that had been heated like that. If I had a barrel that was heated like that I would cut it apart and destroy it.
If you have ever fired a machine gun you will see that the barrel gets hotter than needed to melt lead?
 
If you have ever fired a machine gun you will see that the barrel gets hotter than needed to melt lead?

Actually I never have shot a machinegun along with 99.9% of humanity. I don't care how hot they get. I am not going to heat up a muzzleloader barrel to melt a lead bullet. There are other options that are not going to damage the barrel. I will NEVER I repeat NEVER recommend that procedure.
 
If you have ever fired a machine gun you will see that the barrel gets hotter than needed to melt lead?
Whole different purpose of a machine gun vs muzzleloader. Not even close. Your life depends on the machine gun and that barrel is disposable or replaceable. Silly comparison.
 
Whole different purpose of a machine gun vs muzzleloader. Not even close. Your life depends on the machine gun and that barrel is disposable or replaceable. Silly comparison.
I should have been more clear. what I was trying to get across is lead melts at a very low temperature and steel in rifle barrels is mild steel. When you heat steel and allow it to cool on its own it stays annealed. No damage done unless you keep heating it pass red hot. I have melted lead in a cast iron pot and the pot never got even close to red hot. I will say that I would never want to heat a barrel to get a lead ball out simply because there are to many other ways that work.
 
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