N.Y. Yankee
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2013
- Messages
- 602
- Reaction score
- 674
This may not be H.C. or P.C. but I felt like sharing and I have time to write it. You may disagree but it's what I do and has worked well for quite a few. I thought it might help newer guys make a good rod. I don't have a workshop so I only use simple tools but the results are what counts.
I order 48 inch hickory dowels (usually 3/8 inch) and a few brass thimbles the same diameter from Track or where ever and inspect them well when they arrive. Of course, I look for straightness but more important, grain run-out, knots, and chatter marks where the cutting tool has torn the wood. Small chatter can be filled with epoxy but large areas are a no-go and get set aside. For a ramrod, usually shorter barrels up to 40 inches, I'm going to select the best "section" on the dowel and trim off the "bad end" with a fine tooth saw. I give the dowel a quick sand with 320 paper to clean it up and make it easier to see imperfections, also remove any splinters. If the rod has a gentle curve, I tend to leave it but snakey bends get heated and straightened, or cut off if possible. For range rods, I want them to be full length so the nicest, straightest ones are selected for that.
If the lower end (the end that goes into the pipes first) is to be left plain, I'll sand the end grain well with 320, rounding the edge well to help keep the end from chipping out. I make sure the end is very smooth. If there is to be metal thimbles on both ends, I mark 1 inch from the end in 3 places around the rod, then use masking tape to go around the rod at the marks. This is my "cut line". I use a very fine hobby saw (Exacto) to score the shaft (not too deep) all the way around at the tape line. If I'm careful, this gives me a straight line all around. I use a sharp blade and a rasp to slowly reduce the diameter by scraping and filing to fit the thimble with a slight slip fit, meaning a tad loose. You need a bit of room for some glue but not wobbly loose. This is most usually done while watching a movie and drinking a nice mug of hot chocolate as it does take some time going slow and careful. I try to make the wood rough before I glue the thimble on and I use a stainless steel rifle brush on a drill to roughen up the inner surface of the thimble then screw in a patch worm or something to keep any glue out of the threads. I glue the thimble on with 5 minute epoxy and wrap the joint between metal and wood with tape to keep the thimble straight. I turn it to be sure it is on straight. When the glue is cured, I insert the rod into the gun to test fit the rod and see if the diameter is good or too tight or loose. I take the other thimble and hold it up to the end of the gun to see where I want it on the rod and mark the spot where the end comes to on the rod. Measure one inch up from that and cut off the excess rod. Repeat the process of installing the thimble.
Once the glue has cured for 24 hours, I drill a 1/16 inch or 3/32 hole (depending on what brass stock I have) crossways through the exact center of the thickness of the thimble. I cut a 1 inch piece of brass rod and put it in the drill. A quick turn in some 320 paper roughens it a bit for the glue. I then glue the brass rod into the hole being sure there is full coverage of the glue inside. I work it in well. Once the glue is cured well, I use a small grinder to carefully remove the excess rod. I then use a flat mill file to file the rest smooth and flush to the surface of the thimble. I realize many want the pin peened on each side, but this is how I like it and it works well for me. You can peen it just as well.
When this is done, I go outside again and use a propane torch or charcoal grill (cooked some burgers and hots for dinner!) and carefully brown the surface of the wood with the heat. It's much easier to use the torch because I can make sure I'm not heating the brass and the glue. Once the wood is browned, I'll take a rag and run over the wood to clean and smooth it. A light sanding with very fine paper could be done too, but I don't bother.
I give the rod several (up to 10) wipe-downs with Watco Danish Oil on a cloth, allowing each one to dry overnight and soak into the wood. Sometimes I will go to the effort of using beeswax to rub on the rod as additional protection, but usually, I just rub on another coat or two of the Danish Oil when I am cleaning the gun, and I give it another coat whenever I'm bored. I don't recommend using polyurethane or varnish as this makes a hard slick surface that can be tough to grab onto when you want to use the rod, plus, it scratches and peels off after a while so I don't use it. You can just use wood stain too if you want but it has it's own problems too. There are many types of wood finishes, or you could just leave it plain and oil it or rub in some patch lube or whatever.
That's all. If you want a good durable rod that you can make, get some hickory dowels. You will be surprised how tough they are. I have never broken one and neither have my friends who use them.
I order 48 inch hickory dowels (usually 3/8 inch) and a few brass thimbles the same diameter from Track or where ever and inspect them well when they arrive. Of course, I look for straightness but more important, grain run-out, knots, and chatter marks where the cutting tool has torn the wood. Small chatter can be filled with epoxy but large areas are a no-go and get set aside. For a ramrod, usually shorter barrels up to 40 inches, I'm going to select the best "section" on the dowel and trim off the "bad end" with a fine tooth saw. I give the dowel a quick sand with 320 paper to clean it up and make it easier to see imperfections, also remove any splinters. If the rod has a gentle curve, I tend to leave it but snakey bends get heated and straightened, or cut off if possible. For range rods, I want them to be full length so the nicest, straightest ones are selected for that.
If the lower end (the end that goes into the pipes first) is to be left plain, I'll sand the end grain well with 320, rounding the edge well to help keep the end from chipping out. I make sure the end is very smooth. If there is to be metal thimbles on both ends, I mark 1 inch from the end in 3 places around the rod, then use masking tape to go around the rod at the marks. This is my "cut line". I use a very fine hobby saw (Exacto) to score the shaft (not too deep) all the way around at the tape line. If I'm careful, this gives me a straight line all around. I use a sharp blade and a rasp to slowly reduce the diameter by scraping and filing to fit the thimble with a slight slip fit, meaning a tad loose. You need a bit of room for some glue but not wobbly loose. This is most usually done while watching a movie and drinking a nice mug of hot chocolate as it does take some time going slow and careful. I try to make the wood rough before I glue the thimble on and I use a stainless steel rifle brush on a drill to roughen up the inner surface of the thimble then screw in a patch worm or something to keep any glue out of the threads. I glue the thimble on with 5 minute epoxy and wrap the joint between metal and wood with tape to keep the thimble straight. I turn it to be sure it is on straight. When the glue is cured, I insert the rod into the gun to test fit the rod and see if the diameter is good or too tight or loose. I take the other thimble and hold it up to the end of the gun to see where I want it on the rod and mark the spot where the end comes to on the rod. Measure one inch up from that and cut off the excess rod. Repeat the process of installing the thimble.
Once the glue has cured for 24 hours, I drill a 1/16 inch or 3/32 hole (depending on what brass stock I have) crossways through the exact center of the thickness of the thimble. I cut a 1 inch piece of brass rod and put it in the drill. A quick turn in some 320 paper roughens it a bit for the glue. I then glue the brass rod into the hole being sure there is full coverage of the glue inside. I work it in well. Once the glue is cured well, I use a small grinder to carefully remove the excess rod. I then use a flat mill file to file the rest smooth and flush to the surface of the thimble. I realize many want the pin peened on each side, but this is how I like it and it works well for me. You can peen it just as well.
When this is done, I go outside again and use a propane torch or charcoal grill (cooked some burgers and hots for dinner!) and carefully brown the surface of the wood with the heat. It's much easier to use the torch because I can make sure I'm not heating the brass and the glue. Once the wood is browned, I'll take a rag and run over the wood to clean and smooth it. A light sanding with very fine paper could be done too, but I don't bother.
I give the rod several (up to 10) wipe-downs with Watco Danish Oil on a cloth, allowing each one to dry overnight and soak into the wood. Sometimes I will go to the effort of using beeswax to rub on the rod as additional protection, but usually, I just rub on another coat or two of the Danish Oil when I am cleaning the gun, and I give it another coat whenever I'm bored. I don't recommend using polyurethane or varnish as this makes a hard slick surface that can be tough to grab onto when you want to use the rod, plus, it scratches and peels off after a while so I don't use it. You can just use wood stain too if you want but it has it's own problems too. There are many types of wood finishes, or you could just leave it plain and oil it or rub in some patch lube or whatever.
That's all. If you want a good durable rod that you can make, get some hickory dowels. You will be surprised how tough they are. I have never broken one and neither have my friends who use them.
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