Asking for experienced advice on revolver wear n tear

[Larry (Omaha)]

I am the owner of a Uberti 44 cal Remington 1858. It shoots and functions just fine, now! I was planning on taking the pistol to a BP shoot in two weeks, but question what I see after an inspection of the gun.
Forgive my lack of proper technological terms: The indexing cones at the wide part are chewed out, I assume from the indexing lever/tooth. Questions: Is the cylinder getting close to rotation failure via hammer draw back?
Are there safety issues I might not be thinking of? How do the big boys repair this?
Thanks in advance!
Larry

 

[hrt4me]

you may have to replace the cylinder

 

[ZUG]

I would continue to use it and when it stops working then look for the worn internal/external parts and replace them. The cylinder ratchet cut outs get worn mostly because of hard rotation of the cylinder and forcing the hammer/paw to rotate the cylinder when the cylinder should have been removed from the gun and cleaned then the arbor greased and reassembled before continue shooting. The parts on these replica revolvers are made from mild steel and will not hold up to a lot of abuse.

 

[No second place]

No more slam cocking is best to save from excess wear. Peening the cylinder ratchet a little longer can correct timing if needed. If it`s working properly now just be gentle and it will last longer...c

 

[FishDFly]

Listen to the above, sage advice.

 

[rhett45acp]

No more slam cocking is best to save from excess wear. Peening the cylinder ratchet a little longer can correct timing if needed. If it`s working properly now just be gentle and it will last longer...c

I am ready for the frying-pan, but what is slam cocking? Novice here at best.

OP has some of my same concerns.

 

[NorthFork]

I am ready for the frying-pan, but what is slam cocking? Novice here at best.

OP has some of my same concerns.

What is slam cocking?

 

[FishDFly]

Huh, I asked Goggle, and Goggle did not know. Maybe not sage advice after all.

He is a top rated shooter, but maybe it's his own slang for something unknown to others.

 

[Sudsy]

If you know a really good welder he can stick a tiny drop of hard weld on each chip. You can then work them into shape with files and a Dremel.
I rebuilt a broken tooth on a Walker cylinder like that. You'd never know it had been broken. According to the welder (does aerospace stuff really knows his ####) the new tooth is even stronger than the old ones
Yours would be even easier to do than that was.

I'd also check the hand, the part that engages the slot and pushes the cylinder forward, and make sure it's not damaged in any way. If it is just drop a new one in, that's an easy and cheap fix.

What do the cylinder stop slots on the sides of the cylinder look like, same goes for the cylinder stop bolt (bar/lever?? whatever its called) that fits into the slots ?
It could be worn or damaged allowing the cylinder to shift and slam back on the hand causing those chips. That could be fixed in the same way along with replacing the stop bolt which is easy.
Although if it's to that point I'd just replace the cylinder and since they're cheap, along with the stop bolt and the hand.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

If you know a really good welder he can stick a tiny drop of hard weld on each chip.

I'd also check the hand, the part that engages the slot and pushes the cylinder forward, and make sure it's not damaged in any way.

What do the cylinder stop slots on the sides of the cylinder look like, same goes for the cylinder stop bolt (bar/lever?? whatever its called) that fits into the slots

Although if it's to that point I'd just replace the cylinder and since they're cheap, along with the stop bolt and the hand.

TIG welding is a possibility, but I do not have the equipment nore the expertise. All other parts seem to be in good condition. I am looking for answers as to what others have done. Cheap cylinder? Don't know where you have seen cheap cylinders, but the ones I have seen are $100 bucks. Not gonna do that yet!
Thanks
Larry

 

[Wildrangeringreen]

in the short term, you can carefully (emphasis on carefully, this is a good way to mess things up) peen the peened ratchets back with a punch and a small hammer. Longterm, find a small weld/machine shop that is willing to put a dab of weld there, then you file it to shape. Paying for their time shouldn't cost more than $25 or so (it would only take about 5 minutes, so long as you have prepped the part (removed bluing around where the weld is going, degreased it ect). Also, a thing to consider is checking the timing of the revolver, if the cylinder stop engages before the hand retracts, you could be putting excessive force on the notches. It also could be that the hand is too long, and is unable to retract enough to be out of the way when the gun recoils during firing, and that is hitting the notches.

 

[TFoley]

Slam-cocking is the BP version of fanning like on any other single-action revolver. Given the often less-than-optimum quality of steel used in the manufacture of more economically-priced BP guns, it's more a matter of when, than if.

 

[Wildrangeringreen]

Slam-cocking is the BP version of fanning like on any other single-action revolver. Given the often less-than-optimum quality of steel used in the manufacture of more economically-priced BP guns, it's more a matter of when, than if.

Right, on high end guns (and originals), a lot of attention was paid to ensuring that parts that interact had a similar hardness, in order to extend the life of the gun. Modern Italian Repro's are all over the place, it seems, mostly to keep costs down.

 

[Sam squanch]

Fanning has destroyed more revolvers than rust

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

in the short term, you can carefully (emphasis on carefully, this is a good way to mess things up) peen the peened ratchets back with a punch and a small hammer. Longterm, find a small weld/machine shop that is willing to put a dab of weld there, then you file it to shape. Paying for their time shouldn't cost more than $25 or so (it would only take about 5 minutes, so long as you have prepped the part (removed bluing around where the weld is going, degreased it ect). Also, a thing to consider is checking the timing of the revolver, if the cylinder stop engages before the hand retracts, you could be putting excessive force on the notches. It also could be that the hand is too long, and is unable to retract enough to be out of the way when the gun recoils during firing, and that is hitting the notches.

Already thought about peening, but peening is suppose to relocate metal. The metal has been chipped out, nothing to move, unless the chipped edge could be lower. Not sure if that is the way to go at this point in time.
Thanks
Larry

 

[Wildrangeringreen]

Already thought about peening, but peening is suppose to relocate metal. The metal has been chipped out, nothing to move, unless the chipped edge could be lower. Not sure if that is the way to go at this point in time.
Thanks
Larry

sorry, must have missed that, almost looked like it was peened back oops. Weld would be about the only permanent option, other than replacement. with no more than it is, you could get by for a while peening it in just a bit. I think the source of the damage needs tracked down before you weld or replace it, otherwise we'll be right back here in a while.

 

[No second place]

What is slam cocking?

Sorry guys. Just thought "Slam Cocking" would be a good term for using the amount of forceful cocking seen in movies dipicting quick draw that some people like to play at home. Seen many a revolvers timing ruined by this practice...c

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Sorry guys. Just thought "Slam Cocking" would be a good term for using the amount of forceful cocking seen in movies dipicting quick draw that some people like to play at home. Seen many a revolvers timing ruined by this practice...c

For the record: I am not into fast draw or Slam Cocking! No one suggested I did, but want to make sure it is known this was not the issue causing the chipped out cylinder.
Thanks for clarifying your reply.
Larry

 

[Sudsy]

TIG welding is a possibility, but I do not have the equipment nore the expertise. All other parts seem to be in good condition. I am looking for answers as to what others have done. Cheap cylinder? Don't know where you have seen cheap cylinders, but the ones I have seen are $100 bucks. Not gonna do that yet!
Thanks
Larry

I guess I wasn't clear, the hand and the stop bolt are cheap - the cylinder is painfully not, but If you're replacing the cylinder you should replace the other two (cheap) parts if they're worn.
And looking at the chips in the cylinder I'd be surprised if there was nothing wrong with the hand.

And yes, the only way to repair that cylinder is to add metal.
Work a deal with a welder

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

I guess I wasn't clear, the hand and the stop bolt are cheap - the cylinder is painfully not, but If you're replacing the cylinder you should replace the other two (cheap) parts if they're worn.
And looking at the chips in the cylinder I'd be surprised if there was nothing wrong with the hand.

And yes, the only way to repair that cylinder is to add metal.
Work a deal with a welder

I agree, but the hand is good! My guess is the hand is hardened and obviously, the back of the cylinder is soft.
Thanks for your input.
Larry