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Wood preservation

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Joined
Dec 13, 2015
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Location
Fannettsburg PA
I was reading an article about how Japanese would burn wood to preserve it. From what I read they would char the out side then lightly sand then apply nature oils. Does anyone know if this has ever been done on a muzzleloader. Just curious on how it would work and look? If I ask this on the wrong area let me know I will try to move it.
 
I watched a tv program about the same
Japanese wood finishing technique
For the home

When I was young
I watched a carpenter
Use a torch
To scorch
The rough sawn pine interior
Of a house he built

I am sure you could make it happen!

Jim in La Luz
😎
 
I tried it once on fiddle back maple. It is called, "sugi". IT will ruin your stock. The edges will char. Use AF and dye stain on maple.
 
I was reading an article about how Japanese would burn wood to preserve it.


If you Google "shou sugi wood finishing" there are several leads on how it waterproofs wood to some extent, and the appearance of different woods so treated.
 
I've done a bunch of it. I make large surf lures and you can get some great natural style results.
It really depends on the wood, the oil content, the pore size
You can get some great results (curly maple can come out great) and you can get some lousy, just came out of a house fire, results (White Cedar). You can also get some "Why did I just waste my time doing this? It doesn't look much different" results, very dark woods in particular.
The waterproofing part I pretty much doubt, but I polish in two part bar top epoxy so it really doesn't matter.

I haven't ever but would possibly do it on a stock.
I'd be super picky about the piece of wood and do a test under the barrel where it wouldn't be seen to get an idea how it would come out.
 
If you Google "shou sugi wood finishing" there are several leads on how it waterproofs wood to some extent, and the appearance of different woods so treated.

Just looked at that - that is MUCH different than what I do. I lightly toast to bring out the figure, they literally burn it black.
I'm not doing that to a stock, every scratch would pop, would be super visible
 
Just looked at that - that is MUCH different than what I do. I lightly toast to bring out the figure, they literally burn it black.
I'm not doing that to a stock, every scratch would pop, would be super visible
I was also think the scratches popping. I don't think I would ever try it. It was more of I wonder if anyone has done this type of question.
 
I tried it once on fiddle back maple. It is called, "sugi". IT will ruin your stock. The edges will char. Use AF and dye stain on maple.
Fire and acid, you must let the acid dry, stock may look greenish. You need a broad coverage flame, smaller one will show ‘overlap’ areas and may burn open grain.
 

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