Question about powder

[Trooper]

I read in a manufactur manual (TC or CVA cant recall) that the 'small screw' on the side is to prevent 'vacuum' when cleaning - at least that is what the manual said under "Cleaning".

Here is a before and after of the channel under the nipple on a reactor's rifle after he brought it to me complaining about "miss fires".
Minde you, he Never shot a Live ball, only blank firing for a few years (also means No lubes patches ever ran down the barrel either, And they are "not allowed to swab during the day").
He had never removed the nipple. Just flushed with water then ran a dry patch, says he used "Pipe Cleaners" on the nipple - once off I showed him how the pipe cleaner dont fit through the lower hole on his.

First problem was removing the nipple! Got it off and began cleaning - with a bright light I found the cake on bottom just would not dissolve! Finally I used a toothpick (about 6-7 total) and light scraping with a tiny flathead, I reached the bottom. I think of that channel much the same as the Pan on my Flintlocks, but I guess that's just me.

Then I explained Choke Lube (or equivalent) on the nipple threads...then it was on to his pistol, also with two nipples froze TIGHT.

I'm going to invest in a breech scraper. Other than the new 54 cal barrel I bought off Walkingeagle, I have no idea of the condition of the other two breech plugs. I'll soon find out.

 

[Walkingeagle]

I'm going to invest in a breech scraper. Other than the new 54 cal barrel I bought off Walkingeagle, I have no idea of the condition of the other two breech plugs. I'll soon find out.

Your barrels have a patented breech, and as such a scraper is not gonna work. Scrapers are designed for flat faced breeches. A patented breech is a channel leading to a cone (like a funnel shape) which opens to bore size. You wont get a scraper to fit into that cone. People who wish to further clean these breeches more than what you’ll get for a clean from pumping water through use pistol brushes on a rifle cleaning rod. Just make sure you don’t get it stuck!!
Walk

 

[Trooper]

Your barrels have a patented breech, and as such a scraper is not gonna work. Scrapers are designed for flat faced breeches. A patented breech is a channel leading to a cone (like a funnel shape) which opens to bore size. You wont get a scraper to fit into that cone. People who wish to further clean these breeches more than what you’ll get for a clean from pumping water through use pistol brushes on a rifle cleaning rod. Just make sure you don’t get it stuck!!
Walk

Good to know thanks walk
Are you free this week? I’m off Wednesday to Tuesday

 

[Britsmoothy]

I read in a manufactur manual (TC or CVA cant recall) that the 'small screw' on the side is to prevent 'vacuum' when cleaning - at least that is what the manual said under "Cleaning".

Here is a before and after of the channel under the nipple on a reactor's rifle after he brought it to me complaining about "miss fires".
Minde you, he Never shot a Live ball, only blank firing for a few years (also means No lubes patches ever ran down the barrel either, And they are "not allowed to swab during the day").
He had never removed the nipple. Just flushed with water then ran a dry patch, says he used "Pipe Cleaners" on the nipple - once off I showed him how the pipe cleaner dont fit through the lower hole on his.

First problem was removing the nipple! Got it off and began cleaning - with a bright light I found the cake on bottom just would not dissolve! Finally I used a toothpick (about 6-7 total) and light scraping with a tiny flathead, I reached the bottom. I think of that channel much the same as the Pan on my Flintlocks, but I guess that's just me.

Then I explained Choke Lube (or equivalent) on the nipple threads...then it was on to his pistol, also with two nipples froze TIGHT.

That is due to shooting blanks and possibly there was some oil left in there. It is the high back pressure that keeps it clear.

 

[Mad L]

That is due to shooting blanks and possibly there was some oil left in there. It is the high back pressure that keeps it clear.

Yes, I tried explaining some of the logistics Live Fire vs Blank Loads and how it affects fouling, add to that they shoot heavy loads (80-90gr) to get a bigger bang (some dump as much as 120gr) but it seems to go in one ear and out the other. Tried explaining too that folks in the day, especially military, spent considerable time cleaning and maintaining their weapons....I have given them lists and links to aquire the proper cleaning tools and showed them mine - they just keeping telling me "I stopped by Sportsman's and they dont have...." (*slaps head*) - I just say "That'll be $40, pick it up in a few days"

 

[Mad L]

Your barrels have a patented breech, and as such a scraper is not gonna work. Scrapers are designed for flat faced breeches. A patented breech is a channel leading to a cone (like a funnel shape) which opens to bore size. You wont get a scraper to fit into that cone. People who wish to further clean these breeches more than what you’ll get for a clean from pumping water through use pistol brushes on a rifle cleaning rod. Just make sure you don’t get it stuck!!
Walk

I find a good forged type worm with wad of Tow worked well to get into any shape breach area - I wrap it on the worm and leave a good size wad on the end (ahead of the worm) then slide it down and give it a good Bump into the breach, working up and down while twisting (Clockwise!) then push down hard. It will form the 'knot' of Tow on the end to the shape of the breach, then just give it several spins (Clockwise!) And a couple more Bumps...clean!

Might be just me or perhaps the materials I have but I find Hemp Tow makes a better brush then Flax, it more course.

 

[Stony Broke]

Yes, you did. Flushing won't always clean out the breech channel. The 2nd problem is the bore butter. You couldn't pay me enough to use it.

I've been using bore butter for a whole lot of years, with very good results. I coat the bore and wipe the outside of the gun....both the stock and metals with it. Never had a problem !

 

[user 36911]

I've been using bore butter for a whole lot of years, with very good results. I coat the bore and wipe the outside of the gun....both the stock and metals with it. Never had a problem !

You must not hunt in cold weather? Bore butter will harden up and blow the patches in cold weather. That's been proven, so no need to take my word for that. Although I did test it and got the same result. Animal tallow is the best for cold weather. I like bear grease.

TC claim that bore butter conditions bores always rubbed me the wrong way. Maybe for cast iron but no way can it condition modern steel barrels. I read an article by a chemist and he said bore butter was just chap stick. I'm not sure if that's true but I wouldn't be surprised.

 

[GriscomRun]

Hanshi has a good idea that I also use. I also use a wire worm that I opened a tad bit. I use that with a dry patch after cleaning and also with a MM patch followed by dry of course. That opened wire worm can also be used in a way similar to a scraper. Nice to know we all have a similar concern and do our best to keep a clean breach.

 

[user 36911]

This is what I use to clean the breech. It's not dependent on bore size. If you push on the ramrod as you turn it in the breech it expands and cleans it good. It's way better than scrapers that can't get all the little corners that hold fouling.

https://www.ebay.com/c/18030137069

 

[William Lincoln]

Complicated remedies get complicated results. All these powders,including smokeless
need to be cleaned after firing. If you live in the desert, with low humidity you can delay
a bit-- but those in temperate humid places need to crack the whip on your arse and
do the work of our passion. Clean the gun. Wash out the barrel/ cylinders. Triple 7 is
the least corrosive in my experience-- pyrodex the most corrosive. But none are
corrosive if cleaned off the metal.

 

[Stony Broke]

You must not hunt in cold weather? Bore butter will harden up and blow the patches in cold weather. That's been proven, so no need to take my word for that. Although I did test it and got the same result. Animal tallow is the best for cold weather. I like bear grease.

TC claim that bore butter conditions bores always rubbed me the wrong way. Maybe for cast iron but no way can it condition modern steel barrels. I read an article by a chemist and he said bore butter was just chap stick. I'm not sure if that's true but I wouldn't be surprised.

I don't use bore butter as a patch lube and I wouldn't doubt it could harden up in really cold weather. I use it not to condition the barrel such as a cast iron pan, I use it to coat the metal to protect it from rust, and it has never let me down.

 

[Treestalker]

Just shoot the Black, and never go back!

 

[user 36911]

I find a good forged type worm with wad of Tow worked well to get into any shape breach area - I wrap it on the worm and leave a good size wad on the end (ahead of the worm) then slide it down and give it a good Bump into the breach, working up and down while twisting (Clockwise!) then push down hard. It will form the 'knot' of Tow on the end to the shape of the breach, then just give it several spins (Clockwise!) And a couple more Bumps...clean!

Might be just me or perhaps the materials I have but I find Hemp Tow makes a better brush then Flax, it more course.

I agree and i'm going back to using tow. I just ordered a pound of it. I especially like tow because it never gets stuck in the barrel for me like a patch can. It works good for swabbing between shots if you do that. Plus, like you said it cleans out the breech face better than anything else. The last perk is it's very tadeonal and I always like to keep it like it was done in the good old days.

If i'm going to use a replica of an old Hawken I want to load and clean it like was done when the original gun was used. Also, using anything but black powder is out of the question.'

Here's the tow worm I use made by Dan Fruth.

 

[Mad L]

I agree and i'm going back to using tow. I just ordered a pound of it. I especially like tow because it never gets stuck in the barrel for me like a patch can. It works good for swabbing between shots if you do that. Plus, like you said it cleans out the breech face better than anything else. The last perk is it's very tadeonal and I always like to keep it like it was done in the good old days.

If i'm going to use a replica of an old Hawken I want to load and clean it like was done when the original gun was used. Also, using anything but black powder is out of the question.'

Here's the tow worm I use made by Dan Fruth.

My worm is like the second from left in .50cal
I read somewhere that they used to clean the Tow when done and put it under their hat to dry then pop it back in their kit. Not sure if that's true but that's what I do, one wad lasts a long time!

 

[user 36911]

My worm is like the second from left in .50cal
I read somewhere that they used to clean the Tow when done and put it under their hat to dry then pop it back in their kit. Not sure if that's true but that's what I do, one wad lasts a long time!

I'm not sure they used tow worms like we're using. They probably used the ones that look like springs that screw on a bare wood ramrod. I hate those things. They always come off on me and get stuck in the bore.

 

[George]

They probably used the ones that look like springs that screw on a bare wood ramrod. I hate those things. They always come off on me and get stuck in the bore.

I whittled threads to fit the worm on the small end of my ramrod trying to avoid that problem. So far so good, I've never had one come off in the bore. I use it with wads of tow for cleaning and for pulling wads, no problem.

Spence

 

[Mad L]

I'm not sure they used tow worms like we're using. They probably used the ones that look like springs that screw on a bare wood ramrod. I hate those things. They always come off on me and get stuck in the bore.

It depends on who and where and when. Those forged worms are modeled after "18th Century" artifacts. I have seen photos of originals but usually a bit more crude.
However, yes the 'spring' types are also common.

 

[user 36911]

It depends on who and where and when. Those forged worms are modeled after "18th Century" artifacts. I have seen photos of originals but usually a bit more crude.
However, yes the 'spring' types are also common.

Good. I wasn't sure but feel better about using one now. I'm not a fan of the bare wood worm. That end of the rod is only good for using tow. I like it threaded on both ends so I have more options. Not PC but practical. It's PC to being a 2021 mountain man.

 

[user 36911]

I whittled threads to fit the worm on the small end of my ramrod trying to avoid that problem. So far so good, I've never had one come off in the bore. I use it with wads of tow for cleaning and for pulling wads, no problem.
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Spence

Good job. If I was dead set on using a worm like that i'd do that too.