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Joined
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Lyman (Investarms) .54 caliber Great Plains rifle I got in a trade. Nice looking rifle but it's going to need stock work. Not sure if it started out as a kit someone tossed together of if it somehow slipped past QA when it left the factory.
The inletting is deep sans the lock inletting which is only a hair more than it should be.

GPR1.jpg


GPR2.jpg


GPR Inletting1.jpg


GPR Inletting2.jpg


GPR Inletting3.jpg


GPR Inletting4.jpg
 
I recently built one. There's a bunch of wood to remove, especially around the cheek piece. But it is fun and a great gun when finished. Polecat
 
No doubt it can be left as is. But if the new owner has the time to invest, it will certainly improve the finesse of the rifle.
 
So around like the trigger guard area, would he be taking down wood or shimming up the guard?
I have had a few rifles this way, but left as is because my wood working skills are not good.
 
So around like the trigger guard area, would he be taking down wood or shimming up the guard?
I have had a few rifles this way, but left as is because my wood working skills are not good.


Shimming out the TG could effect the depth of trigger engagement with the hammer notches.
 
So around like the trigger guard area, would he be taking down wood or shimming up the guard?
I have had a few rifles this way, but left as is because my wood working skills are not good.
Oh I have the wood working skills and I will be taking it down across the entire stock to maintain correct proportion. With the depth of the inlays I'll be taking a minimum of 10% of the wood off.
 
The lyman kit I'm close to being finished with required a huge amount of wood to be removed to have a half way decent wood to metal fit. Unfortunately you'll never get a good fit on the tang due to the beveled edge unless you are willing to file it down or replace it. The cheek piece was just butt ugly on the kit and I did the best I could to try and make it Hawken like. At this point all that's left is browning the underlug and barrel.
 

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The lyman kit I'm close to being finished with required a huge amount of wood to be removed to have a half way decent wood to metal fit. Unfortunately you'll never get a good fit on the tang due to the beveled edge unless you are willing to file it down or replace it. The cheek piece was just butt ugly on the kit and I did the best I could to try and make it Hawken like. At this point all that's left is browning the underlug and barrel.
Nice work. What size punch did you use for the nose piece and thimble pins? The smallest I have is 1/8th and it's too large.
 
Thanks kje54, I'm pretty sure that the punch was a 3/32 but I just grabbed what I thought would work. I probably could have done a little better job fitting the wood but I got impatient and just wanted to move on.
 
Why not add to the metal parts to bring them out to the wood. I don't mean welding or brazing that can screw up the metal. Low temperature (430F) silver solder, run along an edge of used to solder a shaped piece?
 
Thanks kje54, I'm pretty sure that the punch was a 3/32 but I just grabbed what I thought would work. I probably could have done a little better job fitting the wood but I got impatient and just wanted to move on.
I typed 1/8th didn't I, meant 1/16th. Need to find a 3/32.......
 
The photos in post #1 do indeed show a lot of wood standing proud of the metal. I'm sure the rifle would shoot, but I commend @kje54 for his willingness to make the effort to get it right.

The lyman kit I'm close to being finished with required a huge amount of wood to be removed to have a half way decent wood to metal fit. Unfortunately you'll never get a good fit on the tang due to the beveled edge unless you are willing to file it down or replace it. The cheek piece was just butt ugly on the kit and I did the best I could to try and make it Hawken like. At this point all that's left is browning the underlug and barrel.
Nice work, man! You even regulated the screw slots!

Some of the folks on this forum do remarkable work with these production rifles.

Notchy Bob
 
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