Complete Cleaning?

[Imacfrog]

So I have watched on YouTube how to clean a muzzleloader numerous times and read step by step instructions on how to clean one. I have established a routine that so far seems to be working and I remain consistent with in my efforts. Have to admit though that the first few times I was sweating bullets (pun intended) that I might do something wrong and damage my gun!

Now in reading a recent post, a new element has been brought to my attention. How often should the lock be cleaned and what is the best way to do this! I have to admit I find that task a bit daunting as I am not the most mechanically talented individual. Example: In order to pour liquid out of a boot the instructions hopefully are on the bottom of the heel! LOL

I would be afraid to lose, break, mangle etc. some small part (ie spring) that would render the gun in operative. Can anyone offer some advice?

 

[TreeMan]

Take the lock out of the gun and scrub it with a toothbrush under a running kitchen faucet. Nothing else needed other than water. Dry it off good and spray some lube in and on it and wipe off the excess. Locks aren’t fragile enough to damage them that easily. I clean mine after every shooting session.

 

[Zonie]

IMO, the only thing that needs to be done with the lock is to remove all traces of fouling and grime that's on the outside of it, every time you clean the gun.
Every 2nd or 3rd time you clean the gun, remove the lock and wipe off any fouling or grime that has been deposited on the inside of it and then lubricate every surface that rubs against another surface with a quality gun oil.
This does not envolve taking the lock apart. In fact, I don't think a person should ever take the lock apart unless there is something broken or something that isn't working right on it.

 

[Imacfrog]

No concerns about stripping the screws that mount the lock? I may be overly paranoid but I know what I am capable of and have done! LOL One reason I shot a recurve bow and flat bow was because tinkering with a compound just was not enjoyable and worrisome! LOL

 

[Imacfrog]

I guess it is just another challenge to overcome! LOL Recommended gun oil for lock? Thanks for your responses.

 

[bpd303]

I agree with what Zonie said, there is no reason to dissemble the lock for cleaning. I have been doing it like that for over 60 years and have never had a problem. As far as stripping the screws, they can be if too much torque is applied. To prevent that just tighten them up snug using your thumb and two fingers on the screw driver. If they are too tight it will cause the wood to compress and cause alignment problems. I use good old 3 in 1 oil or any light weight oil will work.

 

[Imacfrog]

The trusty old 3:1 oil! Almost as ubiquitous as WD-40! LOL Thanks

 

[Bob McBride]

I have several guns that have seen at least a year's service without disassembling the lock. TreeMan had a great suggestion above. I often put my oven to 130 degrees or so, clean the lock with a toothbrush under the running water in the kitchen sink, sling the excess water off and set it in the oven for a half hour, take it out, let it get to room temp and then oil her up and reinstall. I would disassemble and fully clean when she starts to look dirty and showing a touch of surface rust. Take pictures as you are disassembling so you can reference back if you get confused. Literally one or two disassemblies and you'll be an old salt.....

Tip: She needs to be in the oven long enough to get the moisture out of the screw threads so don't shortcut the baking.....

 

[Imacfrog]

Would a blow dryer work? I could use a diffuser attachment, that way no direct strong air flow could move parts.

 

[Bob McBride]

Would a blow dryer work? I could use a diffuser attachment, that way no direct strong air flow could move parts.

Likely, or better yet, a heat gun, but it's the moisture in the threads that I'd be worried about, with a hair drier, unless I was feeling particularly patient that day..

 

[Imacfrog]

Patience I have; coordination not so much! LOL

 

[ord sgt]

I deep clean the lock maybe twice a year. A main spring vise is needed to remove the main spring safely. Place the vise on the spring and put the hammer on full cock. Tighten the vise. lower the hammer and then rotate the spring out from the lock plate. Then take the tension off of the sear spring. Then you can remove the bridal screws. This allows access to the sear bar and tumbler. I usually remove the hammer so I can remove the tumbler. Everything can be easily cleaned and dried. Add a little lubrication. Reverse the order for reassembly.
It gets easier each time. Not to worry. If you think you might mess up, use a digital camera to record each step and refer back to each picture.

 

[tenngun]

When you replace the screw keep in mind that they are tiny with fine threads. You just have to seat them, not torque them down. Light pressure

 

[bpd303]

Yep... I've seen many a gun messed up by King Kong Gorilla grip on the turnscrew (screwdriver).

 

[LME]

Having worked on many smokeless pistols and long guns and a few muzzle loaders I found that the number one reason for them coming to my shop is lack of proper cleaning or no cleaning.The number two reason were tinkering usually breaking something or not being able to get it back together? I don't mess with the lock very often . I do look at it and may take one off the rifle to clean if it need be but that is rare. I clean my personal rifles every time I use them ,locks once a year.

 

[mooman76]

The only time I clean the inside of the lock is when I remove it from the the gun which is a rare occasion. I might should do it a little more often.

 

[Old Hawkeye]

I just took the lock out of one of my caplock rifles for the first time since I bought it new over 5 years ago. It had absolutely no fouling or powder residue on it & looked like it had just been installed at the factory. Even had some of the original oil visible. Is this unusual? I see where some here clean the lock every time they shoot. Why do their's get dirty & mine doesn't? It is a Lyman GPR. Are they different some how?

 

[sawyer04]

Well, I have been told by an old residenter to put a very thin line of silicone around the lock after a cleaning and lubing with lithium grease. I was curious, but have never tried it. The locks I have seen in poor shape were due to poor installation, or too much taking in and out.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

I use a moose’s milk of ballistic oil (what some call Ballistol) and sprintz it on the lockwork mechanisms with a small sprayer. Scrub with a TB and wipe off and use a cotton swabette to get in the knooks. Apply a layer of pure ballistics oil and set in a gently warm oven. This will ensure the water will evaporate and since ballistics oil mixes with water the water will evaporate leaving behind ballistics oil. Make sure to get the water out as it will hide behind the works and eventually cause problems.

What gun do you have? A good lock will be safely designed to unscrew thousands of times with no damage. Not so sure about the cheap foreign guns as I don’t own any.

 

[Bob McBride]

I just took the lock out of one of my caplock rifles for the first time since I bought it new over 5 years ago. It had absolutely no fouling or powder residue on it & looked like it had just been installed at the factory. Even had some of the original oil visible. Is this unusual? I see where some here clean the lock every time they shoot. Why do their's get dirty & mine doesn't? It is a Lyman GPR. Are they different some how?

Not unusual. Caplocks are far less likely to build up fouling behind the lock over time while flintlocks are particularly susceptible to it due to the priming if the lock bolster isn’t flush and snug on the barrel.