Percussion Caps

[jbolt]

I have a 1861 Navy clone made by CVA. It was a kit I bought in 1980. I was 16 and working summers at a machine shop. The owner kept an eye on me and gave it his blessing after it was finished. I never got around to shooting it so it has been tucked away in my safe for 40 years. I'm getting ready to move next year and it peaked my interest when I was packing stuff from my safe.

I don't have the original manual but did find one online. It says to use #11 caps. From all the reading I have been doing it looks like most use #10 caps on the typical clones. How do I tell which caps to use?

 

[bpd303]

I use RWS 1075 Plus caps on all my revolvers. I find #11 caps to be a little loose an usually under recoil will come loose. The RWS caps fit tighter (like #10's) and are hot like magnum 11's. I have never found anyone who carries # 10 caps. I don't like pinching #11's to make them fit tighter because of the possibility of a chain fire. If the manual says #11 try them and if they fit snug enough go with them.

 

[wb78963]

In my experience, the RWS 1075 cap does not work at all on Slixshot nipples*. With the OEM nipples on my Pietta snub nose, which has a lighter mainspring, second strikes were common. With the OEM mainspring ignition was better, but trigger pull was increased.
The Remington either #10 or #11 were very reliable. with the lighter main spring.
CCI #10 would not fit either nipple, the CCI#11 was a better fit.
Caps must fit the nipple tightly. If a seated cap can be easily removed it it too big so if it fits tight go with that brand of cap.
There is no standard on cap sizes. CCI #10 is not the same size as Remington #10, it is frustrating.
Welcome to the world of 1822 technology.
* Slixshot nipples are big help in reducing cap jams and, in my opinion, are well worth the money and make cap guns a lot more reliable.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

 

[Griz44Mag]

In my experience, the RWS 1075 cap does not work at all on Slixshot nipples*. With the OEM nipples on my Pietta snub nose, which has a lighter mainspring, second strikes were common. With the OEM mainspring ignition was better, but trigger pull was increased.
The Remington either #10 or #11 were very reliable. with the lighter main spring.
CCI #10 would not fit either nipple, the CCI#11 was a better fit.
Caps must fit the nipple tightly. If a seated cap can be easily removed it it too big so if it fits tight go with that brand of cap.
There is no standard on cap sizes. CCI #10 is not the same size as Remington #10, it is frustrating.
Welcome to the world of 1822 technology.
* Slixshot nipples are big help in reducing cap jams and, in my opinion, are well worth the money and make cap guns a lot more reliable.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

I keep hearing that the Slix nipples are the cats meow. I ordered a set last week, should arrive today.
Since my revolver is still pretty new, it is still equipped with factory nipples.
So far I have shot only #10 Remington caps and have found them to be very reliable. I have not had any of them dislodge or fall off before being fired. I do get an occasional failure to fire on first strike, but only after the gun has gotten really dirty. I did get a few fired caps that would not fall off the nipple when they are supposed to and I flick them off with my finger.
I have also moved my "go to" load up to 30 grains of 3F OE, it does produce a more consistent group than the 22 gr I was originally told would be the best load. I also moved my ball size up to .454 from the .452 that I originally used. I do get a better seal and tighter loading on the ball.

 

[LST-1185]

First revolver I owned in 1971 was a Remington New Model Army sold by Navy Arms. I used RWS caps with the stock nipples and they work without any problems. But since then I change out the stock nipples for aftermarket ones using Remington #10 caps and had no problems with them. I use CCI #11 caps for my rifles. I do have some RWS on order from Midwayusa.com and will try them out with my revolvers when they come in.

 

[bore_butter]

read here that the #10 CCI caps and the Remmington #10 caps are different size. is the CCI #10 ID larger or smaller than the Remmington #10's

 

[MO_E_W]

Here is a little info on the caps. I have the RWS 1075`s and CCI #11 MAG`s . Both fit and work well in my Ted Cash snail capper and oval capper.
Both fit CVA mountain, with Uncle Mike`s nipple, and GPR with SS nipple, very well, and both fit my Uberti 60 Army with slix six nipples good an tight. In fact once on the are very difficult to remove from all the nipples. Both have a strong and powerful ignition.
RS 1075 mic`s out at .159 tall, .174 width, CCI MAG mic`s out at .160 tall, and .178 width. Do not have anything on REMs. Was not able to measure inside dia.
Grizz, You will be very happy with the Slix six nipples sir.
Maurice

 

[Grenadier1758]

read here that the #10 CCI caps and the Remmington #10 caps are different size. is the CCI #10 ID larger or smaller than the Remmington #10's

The following has been posted before. Maybe a sticky note with a link to this information is in order.
file://desktop-t1sfvdp/Everyone/Public/Documents/Mikes_Files/ML_Notes/Percussion-Caps-and-Nipples2.pdf

Too bad the table doesn't have information on the CCI Magnum caps or the Winchester Caps.

 

[bore_butter]

thanks will look it up when i get back from the funeral home.

 

[wb78963]

unfortunately there is no standard for percussion caps
http://guntoters.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Percussion-Caps-and-Nipples2.pdfif this link will work otherwise let me know and I will dig up the dimensions.
My memory is Rem#10 and CCI#11 are about the same
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

 

[Griz44Mag]

Received and installed the SLIX nipples.
Appearance is quite different from the factory Pietta nipples.
A couple of things I noticed:
The cap side of the nipple has a much larger inside dimension. I think that will help utilize\direct a lot more of the caps energy from ignition.
The vent hole is pretty close to the same size, but has been coned on the chamber side like a good flinter vent is.\
The cross drilled pressure relief should help minimize backpressure blasting the caps off the nipple and help losing them for easy fall off when the cylinder rotates to the primer ejection position.
Pics attached, if the rain lets up, I shoot these this afternoon.

 

[bore_butter]

unfortunately there is no standard for percussion caps
http://guntoters.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Percussion-Caps-and-Nipples2.pdfif this link will work otherwise let me know and I will dig up the dimensions.
My memory is Rem#10 and CCI#11 are about the same
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

thanks for the chart. according to the info the cci 11's and the remmington10's are the same inside diameter but the #11 cci caps are loose on the nipples on my Pietta 1858 New Army .44 cal revolver. i haven't tried either size caps the nipples on my Pietta 1851 .36 cal revolver yet.

 

[wb78963]

Received and installed the SLIX nipples.
Appearance is quite different from the factory Pietta nipples.
A couple of things I noticed:
The cap side of the nipple has a much larger inside dimension. I think that will help utilize\direct a lot more of the caps energy from ignition.
The vent hole is pretty close to the same size, but has been coned on the chamber side like a good flinter vent is.\
The cross drilled pressure relief should help minimize backpressure blasting the caps off the nipple and help losing them for easy fall off when the cylinder rotates to the primer ejection position.
Pics attached, if the rain lets up, I shoot these this afternoon.
View attachment 43921View attachment 43922View attachment 43923

congratulations you have made a quantum leap toward preventing cap jams. Also now you can get rid of that Freight Liner front end main spring and replace it with a Wolf or lee Gunfighter reduced power mainspring which will Improve the trigger pull and make for easier cocking.
Those nipples are engineered to work with Remington #10 cap but will also work with a Remington #11 cap.
They do not play well with CCI#11, and do not work at all with RWS1975.
Believe me on that I have no idea why but CCI#11 don't work but if you don't mind cap jams and second strikes go for it.
At least that is my experience on a couple of different cap guns.
YMMV
Hold Center
Bunk

 

[wb78963]

congratulations you have made a quantum leap toward preventing cap jams. Also now you can get rid of that Freight Liner front end main spring and replace it with a Wolf or lee Gunfighter reduced power mainspring which will Improve the trigger pull and make for easier cocking.
Those nipples are engineered to work with Remington #10 cap but will also work with a Remington #11 cap.
They do not play well with CCI#11, and do not work at all with RWS1975.
Believe me on that I have no idea why but CCI#11 don't work but if you don't mind cap jams and second strikes go for it.
At least that is my experience on a couple of different cap guns.
YMMV
Hold Center
Bunk

P.S. I forgot be sure to use a little grease of anti size compound on those threads and they do not need to be installed as tight as the OEM ones.
Bunk

 

[Griz44Mag]

P.S. I forgot be sure to use a little grease of anti size compound on those threads and they do not need to be installed as tight as the OEM ones.
Bunk

With all my other nippled guns I got that piece of the learning curve over with a long time ago.
I prefer the Permatex Nickel anti-seize. (Same product I use on spark plugs) - It has never failed me.

 

[toot]

where can I get RWS, caps? can any one direct me to a site?

 

[B P Arn]

congratulations you have made a quantum leap toward preventing cap jams. Also now you can get rid of that Freight Liner front end main spring and replace it with a Wolf or lee Gunfighter reduced power mainspring which will Improve the trigger pull and make for easier cocking.
Those nipples are engineered to work with Remington #10 cap but will also work with a Remington #11 cap.
They do not play well with CCI#11, and do not work at all with RWS1975.
Believe me on that I have no idea why but CCI#11 don't work but if you don't mind cap jams and second strikes go for it.
At least that is my experience on a couple of different cap guns.
YMMV
Hold Center
Bunk

I would urge caution about getting the mainspring too light, as this will cause misfires and increase cap jam occurrences.

A light trigger is not the same as a good trigger.

 

[stevie]

Midwayusa has the 1075 plus caps in stock

 

[jbolt]

Thanks for all the replies and information. I picked up a Uberti 1861 in .36 from a member of my club. He threw in 10 tins of 1075's. They fit the CVA 1861 but are loose on the Uberti so now to find some Rem #10's which seem to be nowhere in stock.

I cleaned up the CVA after 40 years of sitting in a box in my safe. The cold bluing on the barrel could be better but it looks and works much better. I will need to do a trigger job at some point.

Before.

After

The CVA .44 and Uberti .36

Anyone know what the extra screw on the side of the Uberti frame is for?

 

[B P Arn]

Thanks for all the replies and information. I picked up a Uberti 1861 in .36 from a member of my club. He threw in 10 tins of 1075's. They fit the CVA 1861 but are loose on the Uberti so now to find some Rem #10's which seem to be nowhere in stock.
(snip)
Anyone know what the extra screw on the side of the Uberti frame is for?

Here you go:

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...lica-1860-army-and-3rd-model-dragoons.123979/