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marking ramrod,,,,,,,,,,

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I did early on, it just wore off. A small three sided file can make a mark well.
I swab pretty often and it’s no problem to feel when your ball is down. And you will quickly see how much of your rod is out.
Then you might shoot a .50 at the range with a light charge, then you go hunting and you want a little more.
i shoot one charge but some folk might want 45 grains on the range and 70-90 on a hunt, you want two marks?
I haven’t marked a rod in forty years.
 
The only time I’ll mark the rod is when I’m working on load testing, sighting in, or for volume shooting/practice at the range. For this work I’ll bring a spare rod that is longer then the ramrod supplied with the rifle. I will place a temporary mark for the load in use on the ramrod. I don’t mark my hunting rifles since it’s easily apparent when the rifle/shotgun is charged by observing the excess rod length.
 
I did early on, it just wore off. A small three sided file can make a mark well.
I swab pretty often and it’s no problem to feel when your ball is down. And you will quickly see how much of your rod is out.

Same here, It's a good practice starting out, but I too swab after every shot, and you develop a feel for a properly seated ball.
 
Years ago I would mark my rod with my normal load or in some cases a target load and hunting load. I would simple take my patch knife and hold it parallel to the muzzle and turn the ramrod to put a light score on the rod. You don't want a deep one or you could score it so it will break. What I did was more of a scratch, very light. After a couple of loadings it picked up enough grime and soot to show easy.
 
I use traditional tapered and threaded ramrod ferrules for attaching a tow worm to the rod. The front of the rod which sticks out towards the muzzle (when stowed in the pipes) is bare wood, firehardened for strength and the tip has a divot so as to not mar the ball upon loading the piece, as were (from what I gather) some originals.

I’ve just used a permanent marker to draw a line about the circumference of the rammer tip. I plan to someday engrave or otherwise mark the metal to provide not only the proper powder level but to give visual interest by means of quaint decor.
 
Years ago I would mark my rod with my normal load or in some cases a target load and hunting load. I would simple take my patch knife and hold it parallel to the muzzle and turn the ramrod to put a light score on the rod. You don't want a deep one or you could score it so it will break. What I did was more of a scratch, very light. After a couple of loadings it picked up enough grime and soot to show easy.
Like he said...a LIGHT scratch is sufficient. It will pick up some color and be easier to see over time. IF...if you go too deep, you create a PERFECT spot for the rod to break off, nice and clean...and yea...you know how I know that. :doh:
 
how do ya'll mark a ramrod for your load? I just mark a ring around it when the ball is seated. it that the way it was originally done?
I do not like scratches or for sure a groove because of weakening the rod as said by others. I use the slick faced black electrical tape. Cut it so it is only about 1/4" wide and make the length so it goes around and then back on itself, but not so long that it layers the tape. Works for me.
Flintlocklar 🇺🇲
 
I had to taper the butt of my rod a good deal, to fit the base ferrule and stock hole, so I'm not eager to scratch, much less notch, my rod. I used a pencil line while working up a load but it wore off too quickly to be of much use.

Now I watch how many finger breadths, or partials, of rod are still up after solidly seating. Works for me because it's now automatic - for when I get drunk & dumb on sweet powder smoke.
 
ALL my rifles have a ring around the ramrod based on an "EMPTY BARREL, this way I can be sure that if the ring is "at the muzzle" IT IS EMPTY!
I like that. Safety is good. And after a few loads, you can tell when there is a double load etc. I think that I would use a dark stain ring to keep things original.
 
Working with 4-H youth, we mark the range rod with tape at unloaded. We can't use wooden rods, and have a 60 grain max load, so if it is not unloaded there is about an inch space for a loaded round and 1/2" for a dry ball. We also only shoot round balls. Colored tape makes it easy for the RO to see load status.
 
I used to draw a ring around the rod with a Sharpe, but then I'd either chamge the load or the mark would wear off. Now I just load and kinda just know how much rod I should see sticking out.
 
I use a heavy brass field rod. The same one for most of my range time.
When I get set up, I mark my brass rod with a sharpie - empty
After my first loading, I mark the rod with a sharpie - loaded.
When I change guns or I get home for final cleaning, I clean the rings off the rod.
Simple, effective, repeatable. No problemo!
 
Someone earlier warned about marking the rod with an incised line.
I adapted an older rod I'd picked up at a trade show. There were two rings near the butt. I didn't worry too much since they were in the last 6" or so & by then I'm usually past the worst fouling resistance. Besides, I wipe after every shot.

Today, at the end of an outing, it sheared, broken cleanly at the lower score. At least it broke across the grain; it didn't split. I'd decided to risk it because there was no runout grain at all; it could have been split out, not sawn.

Hadn't fully seated the ball when it snapped. Had to use my heavy brass range/cleaning rod to finish so I could fire that last shot. (I'd been shooting "out of the bag").
 
Working with 4-H youth, we mark the range rod with tape at unloaded. We can't use wooden rods, and have a 60 grain max load, so if it is not unloaded there is about an inch space for a loaded round and 1/2" for a dry ball. We also only shoot round balls. Colored tape makes it easy for the RO to see load status.

Why can't you use wooden rods ?
 

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