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What is the proper terminology for just the paper "shell". Is it a cone or an envelope? It seems both names have been used on different threads, posts and videos.
 
"At first made of metal foil, they were improved until they consisted of a bullet to the base of which was attached a charge of powder contained in an envelope made either of goldbeaters skin or of paper impregnated with saltpeter so that it would be consumed by the fire of the discharge." From page 110 in "A History of the Colt Revolver," Haven and Belden.
 
What is the proper terminology for just the paper "shell". Is it a cone or an envelope? It seems both names have been used on different threads, posts and videos.
The correct terminology probably depends more on where you are, time period and firearm end use. If the term is understood in context, it doesn't matter if its envelope or cone.
 
"At first made of metal foil, they were improved until they consisted of a bullet to the base of which was attached a charge of powder contained in an envelope made either of goldbeaters skin or of paper impregnated with saltpeter so that it would be consumed by the fire of the discharge." From page 110 in "A History of the Colt Revolver," Haven and Belden.
Yep, PDF about that, Pre-Metallic Cartridges for Pistols and Revolvers: https://americansocietyofarmscollec...-Pre-Metallic-Cartridges-For-Pistols-And-.pdf
Other way from the tin foil cartridges (German tin and not silver) to the patents Bartholow and Jonston Daw and others passing by the skin cartridges treated with KNO³ after potash leaching...

For people interested:
JAjtetrkEz3_Bartholow-1862.jpg
JAjtdUrtL83_Bartholow-small-fora.jpg
JAjtdsyrZu3_Johnston-Dow.jpg
 
Oops, left some filters soaking in the solution for a pretty good while. I forgot 4 of them from the other night. They were in the solution for several days. Pretty sure these will work out just fine but is there a "too long"?
 
Don't worry, the paper cannot take more than it can absorb and the KNO³ will not dissolve it, on the other hand it can transform into a paper pulp and in this case it is no longer good for anything .
Take it carefully (do not tear) and make it dry on a flat sheet in plastic or glass.
 
Oops, left some filters soaking in the solution for a pretty good while. I forgot 4 of them from the other night. They were in the solution for several days. Pretty sure these will work out just fine but is there a "too long"?

I do not have the answer. I hope you will provide one after you have tried these.
 
With linen paper you really can't soak it too long. I leave my paper in the solution for about 6 or 7 hours. It doesn't go to mush like the modern wood pulp paper will.
 
Here's my method, e-zwiders cut to size, rolled on a dowel, fold over end, spot of hot glue, add ball, (even have a concave spot on the dowel to center) add powder and twist. When loading to shoot, I twist the end back open to expose the charge and drop in cylinder, seat ball and cover with Crisco. The Crisco is for lubrication and keeps the pistol clean and running all day.
100_1388 - 1200.jpg
y.
 
If you had to pick only one kind of paper and your choices were coffee filters or tea bags. Which would you choose?
 
If you had to pick only one kind of paper and your choices were coffee filters or tea bags. Which would you choose?
For pistol and revolver, tea bags I guess, but for rifle (Sharps 59) paper Kraft nitrated like what I do when I don't do the cartridges in flax tissue, I don't really believe in coffee filter paper it is not strong enough: 500gr of lead for the bullet ...
JDhwDRgtjEw_Cartouches-papier.jpg




😰
 
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The tea bags are made of non-woven paper, moderately pressed between the rolls and very resistant to traction and they burn very well, not the coffee filters which are made of a kind of paper that looks a bit like porous cellulose that retains too much KNO³ and they do not resist to traction .
I can be wrong but the few tests I have done go in that direction.....
 
The tea bags are made of non-woven paper, moderately pressed between the rolls and very resistant to traction and they burn very well, not the coffee filters which are made of a kind of paper that looks a bit like porous cellulose that retains too much KNO³ and they do not resist to traction .
I can be wrong but the few tests I have done go in that direction.....
Are you substituting the word traction for friction? I'm not following your meaning.
 
There is no confusion between "Traction" and "Friction": with tea filter paper, the cartridges are stronger: the cartridges do not tear as easily as with coffee filter paper.
Give it a try and I think you'll see for yourself...
 
What are you using to nitrate the paper. Potassium nitrate,saltpetre? Is there an alternative that might help a flash. I crack my paper when putting in cylinder but wonder about nitrating,.any help here?
 
I'm pretty sure the cartridges are going to rupture when rammed (maybe?). . Alot of shooters break the paper with a pick when loading. Do any of you find that really necessary?
 
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