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Attach tip to ramrod.

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Purchased a 32 caliber TC Cherokee a week or so ago. The ramrod was missing the threaded tip. Non threaded tip is there and secured with a brass pin. No sign the missing tip was ever pinned which is probably why its not there. Ordered a replacement tip from TOTW which came today. Its a pretty loose fit so am going to have to use a filler of some sort. Thinking JB weld or acra glass. Once cured will drill and pin in place. Any other suggestions s will be considered. Thanks!
 
JB Weld would be a bear to get out if you ever break the rod and want to try to save the tip. I don't see a problem with using epoxy though. If you do have to take the tip off, heat it up a bit with a propane torch and the epoxy will soften up. I would order a new rod though. The rod that came with my Hawken had a pin knot and it snapped off in my hand. I was not impressed with the quality, needless to say.
 
JB or epoxy it,and pin it.Don't put it on loose and pin it.Take care of your TC ramrod,the originals are pricey.
 
Yup, but it's steel impregnated, so it's much harder to undo than regular epoxy. :doh:

You would just unpin and then place the tip on a hot iron for a little while, once you smell burned rubber, it will slide off.

You just want to make sure the epoxy you’re using is not fireproof.
 
Regular epoxy will let go at about 200 degrees F. JB weld needs 600. Not impossible but more difficult as I said before. I wouldn't use it for this application because the chances of having to undo the tip on a wooden ramrod at some point are pretty high. No use making it any more difficult than necessary. Regular epoxy will work just fine.
 
Before epoxying I put a dab of grease on the end and threads of a jag and screw it into the the ramrod tip. Keeps the threads clean.
 
I don’t use epoxy, I do fit the taper closely using inletting black and when I’m happy with the fit I clean everything with alcohol and use Bohning ferr-l-tite hot melt glue. Heat the tip and the glue stick, rub a bit of it on the end of the ramrod and screw the tip in place. It’s strong, water and solvent proof yet easily heat reversed.
 
I don’t use epoxy, I do fit the taper closely using inletting black and when I’m happy with the fit I clean everything with alcohol and use Bohning ferr-l-tite hot melt glue. Heat the tip and the glue stick, rub a bit of it on the end of the ramrod and screw the tip in place. It’s strong, water and solvent proof yet easily heat reversed.

I’ve made many ramrods over the years. Only broke one which was a ramin wood rod, it broke because the rod was finished with linseed and didn’t hold up well to fouling, use and cleaning; the tips I just removed by heating up the tip and twisting off, and removing the pin. Since then I’ve replaced older chewed up rods and removed the tips very easily.

Currently I use composite rods when in the field, which are stronger and better, and I leave the nicer wooden rods at home.
 
When you drill the hole for the pin, make sure to chamfer / countersink both sides. Cut your pin fairly close to length, and peen it to fill up the chamfer.

Then file and finish it flush. I would suggest a brass or copper pin (made from solid electrical wire) because they peen more easily than steel.
 
If I'm fastening a tip to a wood rod I use a pin and EA40 epoxy. It's not coming off! It takes a torch to remove it. I know from personal experience that it won't crumple down to -38 F.

For metal rods the tip and rod are polished shiny, flux applied and soldered like you would join copper pipes.
 
When you pin your ramrod tip, make sure you are drilling the hole across the grain. If you drill it with the grain, the pin is more likely to pull out.

Good tip. I have never paid attention and none have ever come apart but it could be just around the corner!!:eek:
 

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