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Tom A Hawk

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A new build project for the cold winter months ahead is underway. For some time now I have been eyeing the Tennessee Classic style as potential candidate.

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I find the lines rather pleasing but have been undecided on caliber. I have several 50's and .54's and a new rifle in .40 sounded rather appealing as I don't have one. However, a .40 would limit use to small game and targets and I enjoy deer hunting with these guns. What to do....After thoughtful consideration I have settled on a plan and started to order parts.

The new gun will have interchangeable 7/8" Colerain barrels, 36" long in both .40 and .50. a grade #4 maple stock from Pecatonica and a Deluxe Chambers Siler lock. If all goes as planned I should end up with a nimble, light weight hunter. for deer and a pleasant to shoot forty for fun. I will post pics from time to time as things progress.
 
Why not split the difference with a .45? As you said, you already have a .50 and larger.

Just what I was thinking! While the interchangeable barrel idea sounds intriguing, swapping out a fixed breech, pinned barrel on even a semi-regular basis kind of gives me the willies, especially one with a high grade maple stock.:oops:
 
Just what I was thinking! While the interchangeable barrel idea sounds intriguing, swapping out a fixed breech, pinned barrel on even a semi-regular basis kind of gives me the willies, especially one with a high grade maple stock.:oops:
The barrels will be retained with keys rather than pins. Pull the keys and unscrew the tang bolt to make the switch.
 
For that style gun a late Ketland, Bailes, or Egg lock would be more appropriate, the siler is a very germanic lock in style and unseen on those guns. A longer barrel also fits out the clean lines of that style gun. Personally, With what you already have, I would go with a .40 or even the .45, a longer barrel of a smaller diameter and be happy with just that, but thats just me. Good luck and have fun.
Robby
 
I made the same gun in .40 with a 42" 13/16" GM barrel, very nice to handle. I used the straight barrel instead of a swamped on because I picked it up new and unused one off ebay for $75. Had I not gotten such a bargain I would have gone with a swamped barrel.

I agree with the late ketland lock which is correct for what you want to build.

I have a .44 with a 7/8" barrel, kinda muzzle heavy, yours in a .40 will be a tank.
 
I made the same gun in .40 with a 42" 13/16" GM barrel, very nice to handle. I used the straight barrel instead of a swamped on because I picked it up new and unused one off ebay for $75. Had I not gotten such a bargain I would have gone with a swamped barrel.

I agree with the late ketland lock which is correct for what you want to build.

I have a .44 with a 7/8" barrel, kinda muzzle heavy, yours in a .40 will be a tank.

Thanks all for your input. However, historical accuracy is not an objective for this project. The barrel length will be 36" and provide improved maneuverability in the woods. The Pecatonica stock is inlet for a large Siler, so I want to see how the improved Deluxe version performs. Overall, the aim is to have a nice looking rifle that handles well, has practical application and superior performance.
 
If you do decide to use a more appropriate lock on the gun and your dealing with Pecatonica, call them and tell them what your plan is.

They will be more than happy to supply the stock without the Siler mortise cut in it for you.
That is what I've done with several of the stocks I've ordered from them when I wanted to build a rifle of a particular "school" and their stock shape came close to what was needed but the lock they offered for it was the wrong for the gun.

Yes, this does mean you have to create the mortise but that can be a good thing.
It allows you to position the lock just where you want it rather than having to deal with where they put it.
Also, because for most of us, building guns is more of a hobby, why not add a little more to the project and create the lock mortise? It isn't that hard to do but it does take some time to do it and it gives the satisfaction of knowing that you did it. :)
 
Have two rifles with deluxe silers on them and two with late kentlands on them, the kentlands win hands down on speed.

I highly recommend you order your precarve with no lock inletting. I bought one from the P place without a lock inlet and one TOW second hand kit that had already had the lock mortis been done because it was a kit. I can't say for sure the P place profiled the kit stock, only TOW and the P place know for sure. The first picture is the lock I inletted on the rifle like you want to build. The second shows how far off the pre inletted lock mortise was on the pecarve from the kit. And yes, the bottom of the pan pan is below the barrel flat, I glued in a lot of wood to get the lock up where it is supposed to be.

squirrel rifle done 008.JPG


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lock fix 6.JPG
 
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Have two rifles with deluxe silers on them and two with late kentlands on them, the kentlands win hands down on speed.

I highly recommend you order your precarve with no lock inletting. I bought one from the P place without a lock inlet and one TOW second hand kit that had already had the lock mortis been done because it was a kit. I can't say for sure the P place profiled the kit stock, only TOW and the P place know for sure. The first picture is the lock I inletted on the rifle like you want to build. The second shows how far off the pre inletted lock mortise was on the pecarve from the kit. And yes, the bottom of the pan pan is below the barrel flat, I glued in a lot of wood to get the lock up where it is supposed to be.

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Disappointing to hear about the deluxe siler and mortise alignment. Will see what comes and address as necessary.
 
On my kit precarve the ramrod channel had a big gouge in it that had to be filled with a patch, the barrel channel had a similar gouge that I patched. The nose of the comb had a big gouge in it as well but it worked out as I shaped the buttstock. All these patches in the finest piece of curly maple I ever made a gun from, it was sad.
 
If you are like most people, you only hunt with one gun at a time. You said you already had the "game-suitable" calibers in at least 1 gun. Why not have a small caliber gun too?

If you are considering a 40 (for small game), I would also suggest you think about smaller calibers too, or at least a 36. For squirrels you don't NEED anything bigger than a 28 or 30 for them, though those "micro" calibers are pretty finicky to deal with, particularly when it comes to finding the right RR's.
 
If you are like most people, you only hunt with one gun at a time. You said you already had the "game-suitable" calibers in at least 1 gun. Why not have a small caliber gun too?

If you are considering a 40 (for small game), I would also suggest you think about smaller calibers too, or at least a 36. For squirrels you don't NEED anything bigger than a 28 or 30 for them, though those "micro" calibers are pretty finicky to deal with, particularly when it comes to finding the right RR's.

Yes, I have a delightful little .36. Really nice for small game and a pleasure to carry.
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