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Suggestions for damaged screw

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I havd a "very" stubborn screw, soaked it with Kroil and took an old electric engraver and held it on at the screw for an hour or so. Put pressure to it and it broke loose, amazing.
 
I havd a "very" stubborn screw, soaked it with Kroil and took an old electric engraver and held it on at the screw for an hour or so. Put pressure to it and it broke loose, amazing.
That goes with what I was saying, Kroil = intense vibration. :thumb:
 
I bought some stuff on a whim that consists of small diamond particles suspended in a liquid that the makers claim will fill any stripped screw hole and allow you to remove it. I bought some, tried it and dang if it didn't work really well, at least on stripped phillip head screws, I don't think I tried it on a slotted head screw.
 
I supposed the word luck isnt exactly right, but I've always had fair luck with the cycling like Melnic mentioned. I dont own a heating torch but one can make metal contract by placing it in the freezer for a day or two. But do place the frame in a zip lock bag. Wives tend to object to the smell of penetrating oil especially in the freezer
 
Every time I hear someone say to send something to a gunsmith, I have to ask, how much is that gun really worth to you?

BTW, If you have a soldering gun (gun, not pencil) you can spot heat pretty well.
 
I'd be tempted to silver solder a screwdriver in the slot and then put a wrench to it.
Checkered flag or crash.
 
I'd be tempted to silver solder a screwdriver in the slot and then put a wrench to it.
Checkered flag or crash.
Crash!
In order for the silver solder to flow, you'd need to heat the entire piece far hotter than you would want (Silver solder needs 1000F+, while some silver-bearing solder has lower melting temps). Solder also has poor resistance to shear/torque.
 
Crash!
In order for the silver solder to flow, you'd need to heat the entire piece far hotter than you would want (Silver solder needs 1000F+, while some silver-bearing solder has lower melting temps). Solder also has poor resistance to shear/torque.

Worst comes to worst - I'd recut the slot deeper & wider (with a dremel - not something I suggest for everyone) and grind a screwdriver to fit or drill 2 holes to fit one of the security bits and turn it out.
 
I strongly suggest you take it to a competent gunsmith. Not an AR parts changer, but someone with experience repairing real guns and making parts. This is a simple job. It is getting complicated from bad advice. When you find yourself in a hole, stop digging. Time to stop digging.
 
I strongly suggest you take it to a competent gunsmith. Not an AR parts changer, but someone with experience repairing real guns and making parts. This is a simple job. It is getting complicated from bad advice. When you find yourself in a hole, stop digging. Time to stop digging.
Always a good suggestion, especially if you don't have the necessary experience.
 
This whole scenario is why I don't take revolvers apart unless necessary.
Why risk breaking something if a part doesn't need fixing?
If something breaks, then I'll worry it.
But if nothing internal is broken, then I'll just leave the internal parts alone.
 
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