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Stock refinish input

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Long story, but this flintlock came to me through a friend. It belongs to a friend of his who got it from grand dad. It seems that, decades ago, grand dad built this from a kit, covered everything in shellac after some kind of light stain. When I say everything, I mean lock internals and frozen, as well. It was brought to me with a request, can you strip it, refinish it, and make it go bang?
Well, I think I can.

Photos show the quintessential “Japan” gun with only lock I’ve ever seen on the, this Tower lock. I’ve not seen one on anything other that crude muskets or sea service style pistols, with locks varying in finish and stamping. Took hours of stripping a brushing to get the shellac off, as well as the stain. What I’m left with is this blotchy weird wood. Along the bottom, what I thought was a crack, appears to be the boundary between the wood grain shades. My question is, how would I blend this stock to remove the blotches? Dark stain on the light areas? Dark stain overall? I’d rather not stain and sand 5 times trying to experiment, as the wood around the lock plate and lock bolt area has already been taken too low when the kit was built. I’m not going to tackle that, no point trying to make a silk purse from a sows ear. I’d like it to look normal, and the owner wants to shoot grand dads gun.

The good news…. With frizzen free of shellac, it seem to throw a decent spark right into the pan. BTW, I’m just a tinkerer, a guy with a basement shop, a lot of interest, and enough equipment to be dangerous. Not a master woodworker, refinished, gunbuilder, machinist, I putter with this stuff, usually without compensation. This time, however, since the owner is set up for and skilled at fly tying, I’m going into fishing season rigged with a good selection of custom tied flies.
 

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First thing to do is to make certain that it is not loaded. Horror stories abound. I assume that you have the missing parts. If you don't, good luck finding them. Also, you might want to make sure that it is actually a functional gun, there are plenty of replicas out there that are meant to be used as wall displays and making them into firing guns might actually be illegal in some places and quite possibly dangerous as well.

If you fire it, keep the charges very light. If it is an original, it might be a couple centuries old. Rust has likely taken it's toll and it might not even be safe to fire.

You will never turn this into a piece of high-grade furniture.... not even a professional woodworker could do that. I would stain it dark and finish with boiled linseed oil. Your mileage may vary.

Traditionalists still use shellac for some purposes... though I don't know just exactly what purposes, I do see it for sale in hardware stores though. Probably used for some craft projects, but never on any gun I ever saw.
 
It’s functional, good bore, no pits, all the parts are here. I just didn’t re install them yet. Once stripped, wanted to check for spark, but had made sure nothing in the bore first, and cleaned it.

The lock is identical to the 4 I have had, and a couple others I have handled, all pretty stout guns intended to be fired. I would guess late 60’s into the 70’s. Pre Miroku making this stuff, but decent quality. It’s a full inch octagon, 62 smoothly.

When I say I’m not a professional in a lot of this stuff, I am a former firearms instructor, so I’m well versed in safety around guns. Those are mistakes I don’t make. Check, re check, and check again.
 
The wood is probably sealed with old finish and oil. It may not take hardware store stain. Given the situation I'd try brown and black leather dye. Dilute it at first and see what you get. Make adjustments as needed.
 

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