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Shooting Bare ball

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One of the biggest draws of front stuffers for me is all the possibilities of load components. The journey of what shoots best. Or holy cow the odd load components that work and the things one tries in a pinch.
 
For my .69 calibre Charleville flintlock, I use a .678 roundball that I rough-up between two farrier's files. That raises some lead which helps fill the gap between the ball and barrel. I had tried using patches but found loading became very difficult. I even went to the Ox Yoke factory (when it was in Maine) and worked with the shop foreman about this issue. He could not overcome the patch/ball issue. So, I finally went bare ball.
For my .69 calibre Charleville flintlock, I use a .678 roundball that I rough-up between two farrier's files. That raises some lead which helps fill the gap between the ball and barrel. I had tried using patches but found loading became very difficult. I even went to the Ox Yoke factory (when it was in Maine) and worked with the shop foreman about this issue. He could not overcome the patch/ball issue. So, I finally went bare ball.
I have that same musket.I cast .670 round ball and then prepare a paper cartridge, ( American Revolution style), a little lube on the ball end and it all goes in the barrel nicely. Thinner than copy paper is best . Also with .678 you can use a leaf .
 
Pedersoli 20 SxS. .600" ball.
Same stackup as a shot load. Powder, two op cards, half a lubed fiber wad, ball, two os cards. Consistently ring a 12x12 plate off hand at 50 yards.

wm
 
what is the ratio of lube?
I'm assuming you are asking about a ratio of oil or fat to wax?
This is dependent on need/use and weather. Stiffer for hotter weather or for use as a metal protectant in wet weather, softer for patch lube or wad lube in colder weather or for bore protectant (just because it spreads better and is easier to remove).

Somewhere I have a topic/thread about trying to standardize my "parts" by pouring melted beeswax into disposable plastic shot cups like a mold. I consider one of these a "part" one shot glass of beeswax then fill the glass to the same level with oil would be 1:1 wax:eek:il.
Most often I'm mixing around 1:1.5 or 1:2 wax:eek:il I think (I'll look later) might be 1:2 and 1:2.5 with the 1:1.5 used when I add half a part of Murphy's Oil Soap. I go back and forth on adding it.
 
what is the ratio of lube?
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/beeswax-lube-proportion-tip.120036/
I just went and looked at my production containers. When I make some I make a container of each stiffness.
These are labeled 1:1 and 2:1 coconut oil:beeswax and they are both a little stiffer than I'd like. Coconut oil is solid at less than 70° so this might be part of the reason.
Next run will be 2:1 and 2:1.5

I know it is tedious, but, I also have best results when I am patient and continue stirring the mixture all the way through the cooling process.
 
Last edited:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/beeswax-lube-proportion-tip.120036/
I just went and looked at my production containers. When I make some I make a container of each stiffness.
These are labeled 1:1 and 2:1 coconut oil:beeswax and they are both a little stiffer than I'd like. Coconut oil is solid at less than 70° so this might be part of the reason.
Next run will be 2:1 and 2:1.5

I know it is tedious, but, I also have best results when I am patient and continue stirring the mixture all the way through the cooling process.
Thanks. I really appreciate the info.
 
for just plinking off the bench and not being serious about it all I use WD-40 on the patch spray some on the patch material, and make sure it is an even amount of product on all of it and not enough to drip

Now if I am going to develop my hunting load for the year, I will use a proper product, Bore Butter, bear grease, Wonder Lube....what ever is at hand and will not evaporate like the WD-40 will when it just sits in the barrel for a few days waiting for that shot.

But for just popping them off at the bench having a good day, the WD-40 really works good.
 
isn't bare balling, when you seat the ball onto / into, on top of the powder with out any wadding or patching MTL. , such as a MINNIE just pushed into on top of the powder, bare balling?
 
isn't bare balling, when you seat the ball onto / into, on top of the powder with out any wadding or patching MTL. , such as a MINNIE just pushed into on top of the powder, bare balling?
Are you trying to fan flames? Lol.
Yes, to some (at least one person hear gets heated and indignant on his high horse about it) bare ball is ONLY a ball on powder. To other bare simply means the ball isn't wrapped in anything. No paper cartridge, no patch.
If you stand in your kitchen bare naked you are bare, right? If you stand in the kitchen bare naked with a piece of cardboard under your feet and another on top of your head, are you less bare? Maybe more crazy, but, still bare.

I've also observed that those who shoot just ball on powder with no wadding or anything need much larger powder charges to achieve the same task. Also, like almost any load with a poor gas seal, fouling is an issue.
 
Brokennock, I guess that I am, it is getting hot in here! LOL!! thanks for the come back to my defense, at least I think you did? at 77+++, any thing seems good to me! even getting another day out of life!!
 
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