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Making Pre-Cut Patches?

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All this talk of cutting or drilling, round or square is nuts. Take your hole cutter ,material, hammer and a backer Outside during daylight hours and cut away.
 
Smokey:
If your still interested in cutting patches, here is something about the size of the patch that might interest you:

.45 caliber = 1 3/16" X 1 3/16" square or a 1 3/16" circle
.50 caliber = 1 1/4" X 1 1/4" square or a 1 1/4" circle
.54 caliber = 1 3/8" X 1 3/8" square or a 1 3/8" circle
.58 caliber = 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" square or a 1 1/2" circle
.62 caliber = 1 9/16" X 1 9/16" square or a 1 9/16" circle

The sizes given will provide enough material to wrap completely around the bottom of the roundball and then extend up both sides of the bore to be approximately flush with the muzzle. The formula I used is shown in this sketch:

PATCH-DIAweb.jpg


You can use a size or two larger patches without a problem.
 
I couldn't find anything about Square/round patches or about making pre-cut patches.

A direct quote or link would have been nice.
I have to apologize. I went back to the site and could not find the part that I remember other than the small section under, Loading your rifle. What was said as I remember is that the square patch could cause the ball to alter its course a tiny amount as the edges of the patch are over the top of the ball when it exits the bore. The site is traditionalmuzzleloader.com It is very informative. Especially the article "rifles of the mountain man"
 
Before the ball exits the bore the centrifugal force begins to spread the patch out. Can I prove that with empirical evidence? No! But I doubt that the theory of inaccuracy could be proven either. :)

I'm always surprised to read load development reports that draw conclusions from single three or five shot groups.
 
For me, it's not an accuracy thing, it's a convenience and preference thing. I prefer round patches, call me silly.

Now as for cleaning patches, they must be square.
 
Before the ball exits the bore the centrifugal force begins to spread the patch out. Can I prove that with empirical evidence? No! But I doubt that the theory of inaccuracy could be proven either. :)

I'm always surprised to read load development reports that draw conclusions from single three or five shot groups.
When it comes to what is more accurate, I tend to go with how it was done by those whose life depended on the result of their shot.
 
I've tried a couple of other methods for cutting patches but nothing works as fast or as well as cutting square patches with scissors. The fired patches never look all that square.
 
Smokey:
If your still interested in cutting patches, here is something about the size of the patch that might interest you:

.45 caliber = 1 3/16" X 1 3/16" square or a 1 3/16" circle
.50 caliber = 1 1/4" X 1 1/4" square or a 1 1/4" circle
.54 caliber = 1 3/8" X 1 3/8" square or a 1 3/8" circle
.58 caliber = 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" square or a 1 1/2" circle
.62 caliber = 1 9/16" X 1 9/16" square or a 1 9/16" circle

The sizes given will provide enough material to wrap completely around the bottom of the roundball and then extend up both sides of the bore to be approximately flush with the muzzle. The formula I used is shown in this sketch:

View attachment 25028

You can use a size or two larger patches without a problem.

I have a .40 caliber.
 
Thanks, all! My rotary cutter and mat should be here tomorrow from Amazon.

I’m going to try and make octagon patches based on your comments. In addition, I have read about the old timers making octagon patches with their hunting knife. Ned Roberts writes about this in his superb book The Muzzle Loading Cap Lock Rifle, so it appears to be period, at least for the percussion era. I’ll let you all know how they shoot! :)
 
I've tried a couple of other methods for cutting patches but nothing works as fast or as well as cutting square patches with scissors. The fired patches never look all that square.

I'm sailing along in a similar boat. If I do cut in advance they are square but mostly i I cut at the muzzle. I see no difference in accuracy.

If a Loading block is used they are cut at the block. If that is even a thing. :)
 
Saw a video a while back where a fella cut 1 1/4” strips of ticking,a couple of feet long. He would then fold the trip lengthwise and cut squares from the center about 75% through from the edges with scissors so he could re-roll and simply tear at the 75% cut when seating the ball. To lube, he puts the roll in a plastic pill-prescription bottle with a bit of vegetable oil lube. I was thinking of giving it a try when my cut patches run out. Looked like a slick method.
 
Saw a video a while back where a fella cut 1 1/4” strips of ticking,a couple of feet long. He would then fold the trip lengthwise and cut squares from the center about 75% through from the edges with scissors so he could re-roll and simply tear at the 75% cut when seating the ball. To lube, he puts the roll in a plastic pill-prescription bottle with a bit of vegetable oil lube. I was thinking of giving it a try when my cut patches run out. Looked like a slick method.

I tried it, didn't like it. sometimes it pulls the weave sideways, sometimes you pull the ball out of the barrel trying to tear it. Roll, unroll, drop it in the grass, it was a constant fumble for me.
 
To the OP: Buy a big sharp pair of scissors and cut square patches.

My muzzleloader mentor in the 60s and 70s won nearly every shooting match that he entered. He used square patches', so do i.
 
My muzzleloader mentor in the 60s and 70s won nearly every shooting match that he entered. He used square patches', so do i.

I won nearly every match I entered too, and I used round patches, Maybe round or square doesn't matter that much. :dunno: just sayin.
 
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