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Login Name Post: Lubes other than Bore Butter        (Topic#61066)
HistoryBuff 
40 Cal.
Posts: 152
12-21-04 09:49 PM - Post#61066    


What kinds of patch and bore lubricants are people using other than bore butter? Crisco maybe? Crisco, even when cool, seems a lot more viscous and the bore butter almost hardened in the cold last weekend.

HistoryBuff

 
Wes/Tex 
Cannon
Posts: 7382
Wes/Tex
12-21-04 10:51 PM - Post#61077    

    In response to HistoryBuff

Have used both salt-free lard and beeswax as well as olive oil and beeswax. You'll have to experiment with amounts to get the consistancy you need for your local weather conditions. If you use olive oil, I'd recommend you pay attention to the type. Extra Virgin is the pure oil with no additives, extra oil mixed in, etc. Don't need the fancy and expensive stuff, just be sure it's pure.

 
Canuck Caster 
32 Cal.
Posts: 33
12-21-04 11:47 PM - Post#61083    

    In response to HistoryBuff

I have used straight Crisco in the past but found that it crumbled in extreme cold, and yes Bore Butter is impossible to get out of the tube in our sub-zero temps around here! My latest lube is comprised of about half a cup of lard, 4 tablespoons of lanolin, 2 ounces of beeswax and a teaspoon of olive oil. Melted in a glass bowl in the microwave-only takes a couple of minutes. So far it seems to protect the patch even better than Bore Butter.

 
brushbuster 
40 Cal.
Posts: 471
brushbuster
12-22-04 04:09 AM - Post#61101    

    In response to HistoryBuff

i used crisco years agofor a patch lube until i found out it has salt in it and quit useing it.if you do use crisco i suggest coating the bore with rem oil after cleaning.as far as sub zero temperatures i would recommend stumpys moose snot however it dont get thet cold down in these parts so i cant give you much help there.do a search on this forum and find the threads on lube wars #1#2.... maby your answer lies there
if it aint broke,dont fix it


 
Bub 
40 Cal.
Posts: 258
Bub
12-22-04 06:20 AM - Post#61118    

    In response to brushbuster

I started using American Pioneer powder in my flinters. Works good, shoots good, and cleans real easy. They tell you NOT to use patch lub as the burnt powder produces enough moisture to lube the barrel. I find it works okay so far. I've only shot about 30=40 shots with it, 15 consecutive in the same gun, and found their claims to be true. Patches are intact. Check them out on the net, google *american pioneer powder*, and see what you think.
Firewalker


 
Anonymous 
12-22-04 07:23 AM - Post#61127    

    In response to HistoryBuff

Stumy's moose snot, when mixed to thin consistancy, doesn't freeze in cold weather, like crisco, bore butter, olive oil and many other oils.
: Le High Valley lube doesn't either.
: Stumpy's Moose
Snot is comprised of Castor oil which doesn't freeze solid, but does get stiffer, is mixed with a couple ounces of beeswax and murphy's oil soap is used as the catalist to belnd the other two. This is all done with heat, whipping the final mix into a froth before setting it aside in (I used bullet boxes) containers to cool. Mine is very soft in the container, and even when below freezing, will wipe onto a cloth patch.
: I used about 8 ounces Castor OIl, 3 ounces Beewax, 4 ounces Murphy's.
: I believe the original recipe was 8/2/1 1/2 - mine works fine, too.
: I didn't do a freezing test on Murphy's. Pre-lubed patches with Moose Snot barely stiffen at all when overnighted in the big deep-freeze.

 
Stumpkiller 
Moderator
Posts: 17102
Stumpkiller
12-22-04 01:11 PM - Post#61225    

    In response to Anonymous

I have a can of Moose Snot on my back porch (roofed but open on three sides). So far, the Moose Snot has remained spreadable to -7
"Don't take life too serious - it ain't nohow permanent."


 
oldarmy 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1410
oldarmy
12-22-04 01:58 PM - Post#61236    

    In response to Stumpkiller

Where can I find Beewax for sale?
I like the idea of making my own patch lub

 
Stumpkiller 
Moderator
Posts: 17102
Stumpkiller
12-22-04 02:06 PM - Post#61240    

    In response to oldarmy

http://www.beeswaxfrombeekeepers.com/

I get mine from them. Candlemaking craft supply stores have it, too.
"Don't take life too serious - it ain't nohow permanent."


 
Anonymous 
12-28-04 03:20 PM - Post#62913    

    In response to Stumpkiller

Yes- that's the place I got mine from, too. I got the "filtered once" wax, in 2-4lb. blocks- 25bs. total - beautiful stuff & should last a while.
: Most beeswax candles I've seen in stores are mostly parafin wax, with very little actual beeswax in them.

 
Anonymous 
12-28-04 03:28 PM - Post#62915    

    In response to Stumpkiller

Spreadable to -7- that's about -23C- pleanty cold enough for my hunting, anymore.
: We used to hunt moose on the Special Weapons Hunt, in Dec., in northen B.C. The coldest was -56C. At -40, Foreignheat(US heat) and Celcius (Metric) are equal, below that it goes the other way, as -56C is closer to -60F. Yeah, it was a cold snap, and bloody hard on mainsprings, leaf OR coil. I used Baby Oil in the .69 during those hunts with patched round balls as that thin oil didn't stiffen, but it's a poor BP lube, allowing only about 3-4 shots before wiping would be necessary. Fortunatly, the paper ctgs. allowed at least 10 shots, and as all the paper was compressed between the powder and ball, the paper scraped most of the fouling out with it, I assume.

 
sniper68 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1489
sniper68
12-28-04 04:31 PM - Post#62928    

    In response to HistoryBuff

Ben workin on on the perfect patch lube for 40 years try this one, seems to work pretty good. Ain't tried it in the winter but it stays plyable in the freezer (+5 deg)and I can fire at least 10 or more rounds before I have to wipe the bore with the following mix(1/3 vinegar 1/3 91% alchol 1/3 amonia). 1oz beeswax,3oz peanut oil and 1 tbs pro-long engine treatmant. Heat everything till it melts and mix well. I then put in my patch material and stirr. I leave it in 6" withs and cut it later. The key is to get as much of the mix out as possible. I put it on a piece of glass and squeege as much as possible with a 6" plastic scrapper. This will take a few minutes, there should be almost nothing on the scarper when yur done, I also coat the bore with a
mix of 4 parts light machine oil & 1 part pro-long after the usual clean and dry session.


 
NWTF Longhunter 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1093
NWTF Longhunter
12-28-04 05:50 PM - Post#62950    

    In response to sniper68

I've used more spit patches than anything else. For huntin I've used a lot of different stuff, it really don't matter what ya use, the idea is just to get the ball down the barrel.

I used to have a quart bottle of sperm oil. I bet it's still out in the shed someplace. I should see if I can find it.

 
FireMaker 
40 Cal.
Posts: 188
12-29-04 09:24 PM - Post#63330    

    In response to HistoryBuff

Bear Fat and Bees Wax. I heat and mix 2:1 then pour into a tin. It works fine when cold as the bear fat starts to melt when you handle the stuff. The gun is easy to clean and when short of cooking oil, I used the lube mix. Use it in my Southern Rifle and Fusil. Also tried over ball in Remington revolver. Will continue to use same. Also works great for mocs and other leather.

 
Knapper 
32 Cal.
Posts: 25
12-30-04 02:12 PM - Post#63467    

    In response to sniper68

Sniper68,

When you say 1/3 vinegar, 1/3 alcohol, and 1/3 amonia, do you mean 1/3 of a cup, or how much? I would like to try your recipe, but I want to get it right.

Knapper

 
Rebel 
Cannon
Posts: 7692
Rebel
12-30-04 02:15 PM - Post#63469    

    In response to Knapper

I would be real leary about using ammonia in or on a gun. Seems like the ammonia would lead to rusting.
Watch yer Backtrail


 
Anonymous 
12-30-04 02:20 PM - Post#63476    

    In response to Knapper

If I might interject here, 1/3 cup or 1/3 gallon or 1/3 quart - your choice. It's a unit of measure, of the whole being 1. 1/3 is vinegar(acid) 1/3 is amonia (corrosive) and the last 1/3 is alcohol (waste).
: I'm quite certain I wouldn't use this formula in my rifle or smoothbore. For those who use it, perhaps you know something I don't.
: Under controlled conditions, I've used vinegar for rust-browning barrels and I've used amonia for disolving the copper fouling from my Swift barrel. Overnight didn't hurt the steel, of course, but I don't know the effect of long exposure.

 
sniper68 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1489
sniper68
12-30-04 05:28 PM - Post#63518    

    In response to Anonymous

Sorry about the wording in my post, I wasn't thinkin (another one of my hobbies ) I ment equal parts. I don't use this solution as a bore cleaner, only as a fouling wipe. Two passes with a DAMP (NOT DRIPPING) patch followed with two dry patches, two passes each. I also don't use it as a wipe after I'm done shootin, only between shots, as I'm well aware of the of the ingredetients. I,ve used this mix off & on over the years and it seems to work as good or better than anything else I,ve tried. Got this formula at a shoot in the late 50's early 60's from an old man(of course back then every body was an old man). I hope this makes more sence. PS; Like NWTFlonghunter said, spit is also hard to beat.


 
brushbuster 
40 Cal.
Posts: 471
brushbuster
12-31-04 05:50 AM - Post#63667    

    In response to Rebel

i've used shooters choice and bench rest(both have ammonia in their product) in my center fire rifles to desolve copper fouling but i always dry patched and oiled heavy afterwards and suffered no ill effects ,how ever i still wouldn't recommend using ammonia in b/p rifles due to it's corrosive nature.alcohol(91%) works good to remove excess oil or grease from your barrel pryor to shooting to help keep your first shot with the rest of your group
if it aint broke,dont fix it


 
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