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Murphy's Soap???

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nhmoose said:
1/3 Murphys, 1/3 denatured alcohol, 1/3 drugstore peroxide. Equals MAP. been using for over 20+ years. Soak the bore in it drain and dry with patches. WD40 bore next then use RIG grease.

Done in 10-15 minutes.
:metoo: I also use MAP for patch lube
 
It's used in a LOT of "home-brew" cleaner/patch lube recipes. I can't hardly stand the stink of it myself, but that's just me. The important take-away however is that a lot of people have found it to be useful, and based on extensive use over a long period of time...it does no harm.
 
nhmoose said:
1/3 Murphys, 1/3 denatured alcohol, 1/3 drugstore peroxide. Equals MAP. been using for over 20+ years. Soak the bore in it drain and dry with patches. WD40 bore next then use RIG grease.

Done in 10-15 minutes.

A lot of people use alcohol in a lot of their cleaning and patch lube mixes. I never have. Reason is alky evaporates so fast I question whether adding it to a mixture like that really provides any benefit. :hmm: Not being critical of those who do use it, this is a do yer own thang game. Just my tuppence, I see no point to bothering with alcohol (in cleaning/lube mixes :wink: ).
 
Rifleman1776 said:
nhmoose said:
1/3 Murphys, 1/3 denatured alcohol, 1/3 drugstore peroxide. Equals MAP. been using for over 20+ years. Soak the bore in it drain and dry with patches. WD40 bore next then use RIG grease.

Done in 10-15 minutes.

A lot of people use alcohol in a lot of their cleaning and patch lube mixes. I never have. Reason is alky evaporates so fast I question whether adding it to a mixture like that really provides any benefit. :hmm: Not being critical of those who do use it, this is a do yer own thang game. Just my tuppence, I see no point to bothering with alcohol (in cleaning/lube mixes :wink: ).



Alcohol evaporates slowly when mixed with water.

A simplistic way of looking at it is this;
Alcohol evaporates approximately 5 times faster than water and acetone evaporates 4 times faster than alcohol.....Yes, this does depend on a multitude of factors but it gives you a baseline.

Ballistol uses Isobutyl Alcohol which evaporates twice as fast as water.

Didn't know there was alcohol in your
Ballistol did you.... :haha:

Alcohol is a solvent, you'd be hard pressed to find a ML cleaning concoction that didn't contain a solvent.
And, for the soap and water crowd, Water is a solvent.
 
Those with recipes for 1/3 this chemical, 1/4 that chemical, etc. did you somehow do a range of testing to come up with these ratios for your mixtures? Or just copy someone else’s or just make up something that sounded about right?
 
Smokey Plainsman said:
Those with recipes for 1/3 this chemical, 1/4 that chemical, etc. did you somehow do a range of testing to come up with these ratios for your mixtures? Or just copy someone else’s or just make up something that sounded about right?

I didn't invent MAP...I haven't objectively tested different ratios but I have strayed some and equal parts seems to be the best. I have tested MAP and MAW.(murphy's alcohol and water.suggested by Stumpy )

Both work essentially the same with fresh MAP being better, but once it ages it is essentially MAW. I also prefer methanol or ethanol over Isopropyl alcohol but if you do use isopropyl use the 90% stuff.
I know people who have also used soaps other than Murphy's ....The old Amway LOC was a favorite.

I've used all manner of things at one time or another....Except urine....Not going there.

The important key to remember is how you use it.....That makes all the difference...As does the fact that the dirtier you let your gun get and the longer you wait to clean it the harder cleaning is.


Finding a cleaning method that suits you is 90% of the happiness associated with muzzleloaders.
 
I use just a capfull size dollop of oil soap in the water to help dissolve the powder residue.

If you're worried about the alcohol evaporating you should be more concerned with the H. Peroxide. That degrades quickly in sunlight. I never saw the value of adding a rusting agent/oxidizer to my cleaning solutions.

Here's a liquid and a wax lube pair I came up with some time ago.

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Stumpkiller said:
I never saw the value of adding a rusting agent/oxidizer to my cleaning solutions.

Why just look at all these cleaners that have peroxide in them.... :shocked2:

https://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/search?queryx=7722-84-1&tbl=TblChemicals
 
After going through that list, I think that it might be easier to list the ones that don’t have hydrogen peroxide. :) Apparently, there are many good recipes for cleaning. Moose Milk works fine for me.
 
Colorado Clyde said:
Why just look at all these cleaners that have peroxide in them.... :shocked2:

https://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/search?queryx=7722-84-1&tbl=TblChemicals

Linoleum and kitchen counters ain't gun steel.

A lot of household cleaners have lemon and lavender added as well. Help yourself.
 
If they were proven the best they would be used by 80% of us? They are close tho, they all have one common denominator....WATER. IMHO the "best" is water, with or w/o a bit of soap. After all the recipes are just WATER with a bit of "secret recipe" :idunno:

Great great great grampa's all over this forum used it and they managed to preserve a few barrels to "prove" it was the best :surrender:

One thing I have learned in my 45 years shooting muzzleloaders is there is no best for any component, whats "best" in my .54 cabelas hawkenish rifle is different than whats best for the one I bought my pop which is one digit off on the serial #.

So we must all find whats best for each of our inventory. Then, if we wanna be P/C/H/C we will clean em with water. I get a kick outta the guys that look down there noses a my plastic disposable walmart possible bag hanging off the mirror. They spend $1,000's of dollars on pefectly P/C/H/C outfits and rifles then go home and use T/C # 13 or what have you to clean with :rotf: A few, I am sure, will head down to the crick and clean like they are supposed to :shocked2:
 
Somebody mixed an ingredient in a container of one size, with another ingredient in a container of about the same size, and a third ingredient also in a container of about the same size, and found that it worked. So they came up with 1/3-1/3-1/3, or 1:1:1. :wink:

I don't think they compared it to plain old water though. :grin:

LD
 
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