• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Dutch Schoultz System Question 2

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Micah Clark

45 Cal.
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
623
Reaction score
3
Question for those following Dutch Schoultz . . .

As I posted before I am studying Dutch's book step by step. He recommends making a "moose milk" liquid for using as a patch moistener for swabbing in between shots.

I have several bottles of Thompson Center # 13 BP bore cleaner in a yellow label . . . I also have Birchwood Casey Bore Magic BP cleaner . . both are white liquids that look alike. I've used both for cleaning after shooting over the years.

Rather than make more stuff to fill my cabinet . . . Is there any reason why I could not use either of these for swabbing between shots ? Does anyone else deviate from his plan this way?

(I'm not against making a new mix as he recommends, just wondering.)
 
Mac1967,
My suggestion for Moose Milk is one I got from an old timer at a very rural range.
If at any given time there were 300 black Powder riflemen in a room I would bet there would be over 250 different recipes for their very special Moose Milk.
If the stiff you have does the job stick with it.
You want a solution to dampen your wiping patch, Not wet, just damp,
Wet will run excess liquid down into your breech and fuss with your next powder charge.

If your T/C and birch wood Casey stuff will do the job, stick with either or both of them.

I had a hell of a time figuring out what worked for me and later on the thundering herd I coached at that now defunct rifle range.

If your wiping solutions are not oily or greasy or gooey and thick they should all right.

I only object to Murphy's OilSoap because it was intended for wood product and has oil in unstated quantities and the soap part sound slick which would fuss with he other variables. What we want is something that will remove the black powder residue before it turns rock hard and changes the effective sive of you internal bore

Don't regard me as Moses. I wouldn't look good in his outfit.

Dutch
 
Dutch - Thank you for that info ... I really appreciate your insight as well as your time too. Your experience may not match up with the great law giver but it's still appreciated !

Best regards,
Micah
 
DITCH THE TC 13..........tonight! Zonie, myself and others have horror stories bout that concoction. Heck, ya paid for the system, whats a few bucks for a few years worth of moose milk? Or like Dutch says, make yer own. :hatsoff:
 
I can make it . . . and store it in a TC 13 bottle - HA !!

Thanks for the warning. What was the problem with the TC 13 ?

I am learning that a lot of the stuff that is readily available at the few commercial places that even have a ML section is often not great. (I'm not a fan of bore butter, except in my cap & ball pistols, for example, but I didn't know it till I had a few tubes.)
 
The TC #13 I used caused almost instant surface rust to appear on the bores of several different pistols I tried to clean with it.

Maybe I got a defective batch of it but whatever the reason was, I wiped the clean, oil free bores with a patch that was soaked with TC #13 and followed it with a clean dry patch.

The dry patch came out with a nice rusty red color on it.

I recleaned the bores with water and lo and behold, no red rust on the dry patches.
 
(I'm not a fan of bore butter, except in my cap & ball pistols, for example, but I didn't know it till I had a few tubes.)
[/quote]


:metoo: Tube I opened was runny and 15-20yrs old and GROSS but hey, the .36 is now a shooter!

Like Zonie says RUST from TC 13. JUST USE water & two small drops of dish soap and a tiny bit of spit from Grizzly winter green :youcrazy:
 
I followed Dutch's recipe and made some "moose milk" . . . pretty simple . . .

I'll try it for in between shot swabbing . . .

I have used all sorts of stuff for cleaning . . . including (gasp) brake parts cleaner . . . windex, and a host of BP products . . Not sure I have a favorite yet.
 
Nothing wrong with brake part cleaner if it cleans the residue of previous powder explosions..

I continue to take exception with the word swabbing.
It congers up an image of a couple swabbies with mops and buckets sloshing copious amongst of sea water on the decks of a navy ship.

I prefer the word WIPING. Those of you who have had children get a different mental picture from that word.

It means a quick wipe with a MOISTENED reasonably thick enough to exert some pressure on the lands and grooves of the rifling in your barrel..

Moistened is one thing, WET is another which would also clean the bore but which would leave excess water, moose milk, bourbon or whatever solvent you are using to drip down the barrel and collect just where you are putting you next powder charge. It might not prevent some of the powder to fire but it WILL weaken the charge and greatly effect any dream of accuracy you might be enjoying at the time.
Don't RainOn My Parade.
Don't Pee On My Powder Charge.

Continually naggingly yours

Dutch
 
Back
Top