• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

bullet casting

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kbbgood

32 Cal.
Joined
Nov 17, 2012
Messages
37
Reaction score
0
I am getting a set of bullet casting blocks. What are the best maxi balls blocks are the best? And should I get sizer dies for them? If so what size do I need for 45 and 50 cal?
 
Sizing dies all depend on the size of the bullet and the size of the barrel, plus the accuracy that you are experiencing.

I have sizing dies that are just a .001" difference. Depends on the barrels, accuracy and easy of loading.

Fleener
 
You don’t use sizin’ dies with maxi-ball moulds. The front band is slightly oversize to engage the riflin’ when loadin’ and sizin’ them would do away with it so they likely would be loose & not want to stay on the powder which can lead to all kinds of excitement of the kind you don’t want.
 
I bought the lyman 370 maxi ball blocks and handle from midway 2 years ago. these are some quality blocks and the maxi balls come out perfect.
s0Spzwn.jpg

P3c9tIZ.jpg
 
What bubba.50 said! Also, while Lyman Maxi-Ball molds are very well made, they're also highly variable regarding MB diameter and weight. Thompson Center MB molds OTOH, are made of aluminum (rather than "steel") and are much more consistent with respect to diameter and weight, and they're much less expensive than the Lymans. (Don't ask how I know this!) Btw, you want MB's to be larger/heavier, i.e., of greater diameter (nose band) than smaller for the reasons bubba.50 mentioned.
 
What are the best maxi balls blocks are the best?

Well I always found Lee REAL and TC Maxihunter bullets shot better than Maxiballs, and that patched round ball shot better than those.

I'd suggest that you try what's available in several different designs, first, then get a mold for that bullet. You might find for your .50, for example, the best idea is a Lee REAL conical mold that also casts you a .490 round ball at the same time. Combo Mold The same set-up is available in .45 .45 combo mold .

LD
 
Another vote for the Thompson Center Maxi-Ball molds. They heat up fast and produce fully filled castings, plus they can be purchased for less as mentioned already.
Just my opinion.
Ron
 
by way of disclaimer, I don't shoot maxi- balls ...plain old roundball works for me.

having said that, I would be inclined to go with an aluminum mold. they are less expensive, they will work just as well (if properly handled and cared for), and they'll last a very long time (again, if properly handled and cared for). Don't whack the blocks ”¦ gently tap with a wooden stick - I use a bit of firewood which, once thoroughly beaten, can be put back into the firewood pile.

you will want to cast 'pure' lead (or as close to it as you can reasonably get), if you're using a maxi- ball or REAL design.

when you go to cast, be sure to use common sense about safety ”¦ wear closed toed shoes, a decent pair of leather work gloves (I like mine a few sizes too big so I can snatch them off in a hurry if the need arises) ”¦ long pants, and you want to be upwind of the casting pot (if there's no wind, use a fan). I cast outdoors, and I recommend that you do the same. Also be aware that if a droplet of water falls into the molten lead, it will instantly turn into explosive steam and this may spread melted lead all over the place. this will happen much faster than you can react and get out of the way, so if you're sweating, you should have a hat or a bandana or something to keep sweat out of the pot.

other thoughts: use a melting pot designed for the task... if you use an aluminum pot, the bottom may fail when the lead melts -- this will only end badly. have a folded towel handy for the newly cast bullets to fall onto after they come out of the mold.

of course, don't eat or drink or smoke while casting, and be sure to wash your hands carefully when done.


use common sense while running ball, and you'll have a great time.


Good luck with your project, and make good smoke!

:)
 
MSW said:
... use a melting pot designed for the task... if you use an aluminum pot, the bottom may fail when the lead melts -- this will only end badly.
This is worth repeating.

People sometimes know that aluminum doesn't melt until it gets hotter than 1200°F and because most bullet casting lead is around 800°F they get the idea that aluminum is safe to use for a melting pot.

The problem with an aluminum pot is, when it is heated to 800°F it loses almost all of its strength.

It won't look like it is going to melt at this temperature but because it is severely weakened it can suddenly form a rip right thru the side or bottom and all of the molten lead will pour out all over everything.
 
Zonie said:
MSW said:
... use a melting pot designed for the task... if you use an aluminum pot, the bottom may fail when the lead melts -- this will only end badly.
This is worth repeating.

People sometimes know that aluminum doesn't melt until it gets hotter than 1200°F and because most bullet casting lead is around 800°F they get the idea that aluminum is safe to use for a melting pot.

The problem with an aluminum pot is, when it is heated to 800°F it loses almost all of its strength.

It won't look like it is going to melt at this temperature but because it is severely weakened it can suddenly form a rip right thru the side or bottom and all of the molten lead will pour out all over everything.


Lee pots don't leak. :rotf:
http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr329/Rifleman1776/Leepot-1.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I use a heavy paper clip to clean the nozzle every 100 rounds or so, works like a charm. And drippings are easily dropped back in the pot with the needle noses I keep on the table. I like my Lee pots, even though they do have their own personalities. I have dispensed literally 10's of thousands or more rounds from them using Lee and other molds. If you don't cast, you are missing a big part of the experience. I usually get in a few dozen fishing sinkers while casting bullets. Keep a hot plate near to hold your molds at casting temp. You will have almost 0 throw backs...
 
Griz44Mag said:
I use a heavy paper clip to clean the nozzle every 100 rounds or so, works like a charm. And drippings are easily dropped back in the pot with the needle noses I keep on the table. I like my Lee pots, even though they do have their own personalities. I have dispensed literally 10's of thousands or more rounds from them using Lee and other molds. If you don't cast, you are missing a big part of the experience. I usually get in a few dozen fishing sinkers while casting bullets. Keep a hot plate near to hold your molds at casting temp. You will have almost 0 throw backs...


👍
If I get a drip or two during a run a screwdriver in the slot and a twist or 2 back and forth clear it. Gotta stay near as the pot heats so if it starts dripping at melting temp just twist. Once a year I empty the pot into an ingot mold, remove the handle, rod and my thermometer then use a wire brush wheel on a drill to rid of scale and refill.
 
Used my old 10 pounder over 30 years like that. It started rusting thru on the top lip so had an excuse for the 20 pounder. Now the 10 is only for harder alloy.
 
40 Flint said:
Griz44Mag said:
I use a heavy paper clip to clean the nozzle every 100 rounds or so, works like a charm. And drippings are easily dropped back in the pot with the needle noses I keep on the table. I like my Lee pots, even though they do have their own personalities. I have dispensed literally 10's of thousands or more rounds from them using Lee and other molds. If you don't cast, you are missing a big part of the experience. I usually get in a few dozen fishing sinkers while casting bullets. Keep a hot plate near to hold your molds at casting temp. You will have almost 0 throw backs...


👍
If I get a drip or two during a run a screwdriver in the slot and a twist or 2 back and forth clear it. Gotta stay near as the pot heats so if it starts dripping at melting temp just twist. Once a year I empty the pot into an ingot mold, remove the handle, rod and my thermometer then use a wire brush wheel on a drill to rid of scale and refill.


Good advice, 40. But, even though I have fixed the drip problem with my Lee I still prefer to use a dipper. The bottom nozzle is just not convenient for me. Wish I had the budget to get a Lyman. I miss my old Lyman. It rusted apart on me in a "dry" storage unit. :(
 
I had a Lee pot and got tired of dealing with the drip. Now I use an old school Coleman stove with propane adapter, cast iron pot and a Lyman Dipper. Much better! :thumbsup:
 
Back
Top