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Login Name Post: Cleaning with brushes?        (Topic#307634)
flehto 
Cannon
Posts: 7769
06-14-18 10:56 AM - Post#1689692    

    In response to CO Elkeater

I use lengths cut from .050 paper clips. Peen a head on one end, ctsk both ends of the .052 dia hole {#55 drill} , push the pin in and leave approx. .04 sticking out and peen this into a rivet head. File both heads flush and it's done. Don't ctsk too deep.....it doesn't take much of a head to retain the pin....Fred

 
CO Elkeater 
45 Cal.
Posts: 608
CO Elkeater
06-14-18 11:19 AM - Post#1689694    

    In response to flehto

Thank you Fred.

 
fleener 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1236
06-14-18 12:26 PM - Post#1689699    

    In response to CO Elkeater

for pinning the RR tip, simply use a finishing nail, drill the hole, glue it and cut off the head. Finish to flush, I like to pean the ends a little

Fleener

 
Mooman76 
69 Cal.
Posts: 3367
06-14-18 12:27 PM - Post#1689700    

    In response to CO Elkeater

  • CO Elkeater Said:
Where do you get rr tip pinning material?



You can get brass rod from a hardware store. Cut it to the length you need.

 
Okie Hog 
40 Cal.
Posts: 371
06-14-18 01:27 PM - Post#1689708    

    In response to Skychief

i seldom use a brush.

 
Deputy Dog 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1111
Deputy Dog
06-14-18 02:31 PM - Post#1689709    

    In response to stubshaft

  • stubshaft Said:
I use nylon brushes. Never got one stuck and they get the powder fouling out.






 
smoothshooter 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1030
06-14-18 09:03 PM - Post#1689753    

    In response to flehto

To carry that line of thought a bit further, if you can find the brushes that are secured to the threaded shank with a heavy wire loop instead of just a crimp, it virtually eliminates any chance of twisting the shank off of the brush.

Brownell's is one of the few sources for that kind of brush that I know of.

 
smoothshooter 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1030
06-14-18 09:05 PM - Post#1689754    

    In response to flehto

Be sure to drill your hole ACROSS THE GRAIN of the ramrod.

 
smoothshooter 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1030
06-14-18 09:06 PM - Post#1689755    

    In response to necchi

WAS a paid author.

Been dead a long time.

Edited by smoothshooter on 06-14-18 09:06 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
fleener 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1236
06-15-18 06:17 AM - Post#1689775    

    In response to smoothshooter

I will often put a piece of solder on the brush where it is attached to the crimped area.

Fleener

 
Artificer 
Cannon
Posts: 7279
06-15-18 11:10 AM - Post#1689798    

    In response to smoothshooter

  • smoothshooter Said:
To carry that line of thought a bit further, if you can find the brushes that are secured to the threaded shank with a heavy wire loop instead of just a crimp, it virtually eliminates any chance of twisting the shank off of the brush.

Brownell's is one of the few sources for that kind of brush that I know of.




Excellent Advice! Also, Military Bore Brushes are made that way and they don't come apart.

Beware the CHEAP bore brushes that have a CUT wire end on the very front of the brush and have a threaded aluminum base!! These are often for sale at gun shows by folks who stock a huge amount of cleaning materials/brushes, but don't know any better. They often come apart in modern guns, let alone muzzle loading guns.

Finally, Also Beware of using the Military Brushes that were commonly issued to clean M1911 Pistols!! Though these ARE excellent bore brushes, they were/are a "Dual Purpose Bore Brush" that was also used for .50 Caliber Ma Duece Machine Guns. As such, they are going to OFTEN GET STUCK in a Muzzleloader with bore sizes UNDER .50 caliber!!

Gus

 
Artificer 
Cannon
Posts: 7279
06-15-18 11:46 AM - Post#1689802    

    In response to Artificer

First a disclaimer, I don't work for Brownells, though I have been a loyal customer since the early 1970's.

After trying many of the commercially available bronze bore brushes with varied/mixed results, I have forgotten how many dozens of Brownells "BROWNELLS - "SPECIAL LINE"™ BRASS CORE BORE BRUSH's" I have bought and used over the years. The price seems a bit high, BUT they come in either "3 Packs" or "Dozen Packs" and are thus very economical, especially when ordering something else from Brownells.

Scroll down to find the size that best fits your gun's bore size.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/brushes-amp...

Gus

 
fleener 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1236
06-15-18 04:50 PM - Post#1689848    

    In response to Artificer

Gus

thanks for the info on the brownell brushes.

I dont think I have tried them yet.

Will pick up a 12 pack.

Fleener

 
CO Elkeater 
45 Cal.
Posts: 608
CO Elkeater
06-17-18 09:55 AM - Post#1690035    

    In response to Skychief

  • Skychief Said:
I'm re-reading Ned Roberts' 'The Muzzleloading Cap Lock Rifle'.

Interesting to say the least to read how the old boys did things.

In it, he describes how he was instructed to clean a rifle. Brushes were used in the bore.

I seldom use a brush, how about you all. Maybe brushing would speed a cleaning up, or perhaps, do a better job versus not brushing.

What say you?

Best regards, Skychief.



Thanks Skychief, Friday I dry brushed between shots at the range. Lot's of half burnt charcoal was removed. And the book is on it's way.


 
Skychief 
69 Cal.
Posts: 3386
Skychief
06-17-18 01:37 PM - Post#1690058    

    In response to CO Elkeater

That's great Elkeater.

Let me know what you think of the book when you get a chance.

Best regards, Skychief.

 
M.D. 
70 Cal.
Posts: 4859
06-17-18 04:35 PM - Post#1690085    

    In response to Skychief

I've described this before but about a year ago I started to load using a stiff nylon bristle brush and it is proving to be very effective and efficient of fouling control and thus prolonged accuracy control.
The procedure starting with a clean barrel and after the first shot is to dump the fresh charge and push the brush down the bore. This cleans the fouling out of the bore pushing it ahead and down on the fresh powder, just as a patched ball would. It is given a quarter turn right and with drawn cleaning the bore again on the up stroke.
Now the lubed patch and ball are seated normally. There is now a dry fouling barrier between the fresh powder and wet patched ball.
What happen by pouring the powder in first without dampening the bore with a wet patch to clear fouling is the fire channel is kept clear of damp fouling.
I can shoot an entire ten shot match with a cleaner bore and no delayed ignition from fire channel fouling.
The stiff bristle brush does a much better job of cleaning groove corner fouling than does a damp patch as well.


Edited by M.D. on 06-17-18 04:39 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
DarrinG 
36 Cal.
Posts: 54
DarrinG
06-17-18 06:29 PM - Post#1690107    

    In response to M.D.

That sounds like a good plan.

Where are you guys finding nylon brushes? All I can seem to find in BP calibers are bronze brushes. I also need 10-32 threads.

 
M.D. 
70 Cal.
Posts: 4859
06-17-18 07:04 PM - Post#1690109    

    In response to DarrinG

Stiff bristle brush shot gun brushes are working for me. I did have to make a new range rod with an adapter to handle the larger thread of the shotgun brush.
I got them at my local gun shop but I would bet Midway USA has them as well.

 
Artificer 
Cannon
Posts: 7279
06-18-18 06:11 AM - Post#1690167    

    In response to M.D.

Since I have no experience with using Nylon Bore Brushes in Muzzleloading Guns, I hope M.D. and others will chime in on the correct types/sizes to use in larger bore muzzle loading guns. The “Heavy Weight” Nylon Brushes might be better for scrubbing than the “Standard Line” ones listed below.
Standard Line:
https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/brushes-amp...
Heavy Weight:
https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/brushes-amp...

OK, for larger bore ML guns, one may or will need to use what is commonly referred to today as a “Shotgun” Bore Brush. The first thing one needs to know is what the actual bore size each modern brush is designed for, so here is a link to a chart showing Shotgun Bore Size to actual Decimal bore size.
http://www.hallowellco.com/bore_size_chart.htm

The second thing one needs to know is modern Shotgun Bore Brushes are threaded 5/16-27 TPI, so they won’t fit most of the threaded tips on many ML ramrods. So one needs an adaptor, like M.D. mentioned, to fit their ramrod that adapts either in 8-32 TPI or 10-32 TPI to match their ramrod tips for the larger Shotgun Bore Brushes.
In the following link, scroll down to "Thread Adaptors" either:

8-32 male To
5/16"- 27 Female 3/8"Dia. 12-34-08 $3.60

OR:
10-32 male To
5/16"-27 female 3/8"Dia. 12-34-10 $3.60

http://possibleshop.com/s-s-ramrod-acc.html


Gus


 
CO Elkeater 
45 Cal.
Posts: 608
CO Elkeater
06-18-18 07:26 AM - Post#1690174    

    In response to Artificer

Why not brass or bronze brushes? Wouldn't they last longer than nylon?

Edited by CO Elkeater on 06-18-18 07:29 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Artificer 
Cannon
Posts: 7279
06-18-18 08:11 AM - Post#1690183    

    In response to CO Elkeater

Hopefully, M.D. will chime in to answer that question. I just listed where to get nylon brushes and adaptors he was talking about.

Personally, I have only used Brass/Bronze Bore Brushes myself in ML guns. Most of the time after a reenactment on Sundays, I did not have time to fully clean my Brown Bess. So I did take the time to scrub out "the chunks" with a 12 gauge bronze bore brush and then ran an Oil patch in the bore to hold it long enough until I got home to completely clean it. Also scrubbed off the powder residue with a Bronze "Tooth" Brush and oiled the lock and outside of the barrel before leaving the reenactment site. These things kept rust from forming until I got it home to clean it.

Gus

 
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