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Powder Flask Repair

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Treestalker

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I came into possession of a copper Remington pistol flask that has a long separation along the seam. It was originally soldered, but I'm not sure I can solder it back. I thought I may use Quick-steel to repair it. My question is would the chemicals in the quick steel adversely affect the black powder? I only use the real thing, and will not put Pyrodex or other junk in my flask. Thanks for your advice, George.
 
I repaired mine by soldering as much as I could and then finishing with an old formula epoxy paste. Been using it for ten years since, and it has worked fine.
 
I had the same problem for a while. Tried to solder it without success. Finally I just cut a small thin piece out of a white T shirt and super glued it over the split area. Looks funny but I don't care about that, just about it's effectiveness. Worked like a champ, fast, easy.
 
Back when I had an 80 cj5 the body of the thermostat lower housing was eaten through, I filed all the edges of the eaten part to smoothness, almost a third of the upper part of the body, and used jb weld and formed it as original. I drove that jeep for five years more with that repaired part before selling it. The lower housing was impossible to find anywhere, had to fix it or do without. JB weld is some good stuff.
 
I had a flask ( thirty plus years old ) split several years back at an eastern week long rendezvous so I got some tape from the medic, wrapped the flask with the tape, and sewed a piece of light leather over it. I have been using the flask since then (six years ) with no problems. :idunno:
 
I managed to split my powder flask about 12 years ago. I was able to resolder most of the split, but one section wouldn't take. I filled that with PC7 epoxy paste (it's been around over 50 years so it roughly qualifies as antique) and have been using it pretty constantly ever since.
 
I did something similar but it was not quite a split. I put epoxy (super glue) in the dent and still use it. I guess mine's an antique as well. I've had it for over 50 years.
 
Most can be re-soldered if cleaned up with steel wool first to remove all oxides then fluxed and sweated back together.
The neck plug needs removed and an aluminum backer placed to contour on the inside seem.
Solder won't stick to aluminum nor will it melt at solder flow temp.
 
M.D. said:
Most can be re-soldered if cleaned up with steel wool first to remove all oxides then fluxed and sweated back together.
The neck plug needs removed and an aluminum backer placed to contour on the inside seem.
Solder won't stick to aluminum nor will it melt at solder flow temp.
I am a collector of powder flasks and for dents I always spoon them out for splits these can be soldered but are a hit miss job
Feltwad

 
treestalker said:
I came into possession of a copper Remington pistol flask that has a long separation along the seam. It was originally soldered, but I'm not sure I can solder it back. I thought I may use Quick-steel to repair it. My question is would the chemicals in the quick steel adversely affect the black powder? I only use the real thing, and will not put Pyrodex or other junk in my flask. Thanks for your advice, George.
Take it to a radiator repair shop and let them do it right - they KNOW how to solder :wink: :thumbsup: :v .
 
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