Round Ball Patch Diameter

Hi Guys
I got so much help from my first question a couple of days ago I need to ask another!
I understand about the different thicknesses of patches but I cannot find any information on the ideal diameter?
I normally use either OxYoke or J.J. Tanner (Ballmoulds of UK) but cannot find a chart listing the correct size for different bore size's.
I have three .69cal guns, Ardesa Cannon, Pedersoli ANIX Carbine and Pistol, Dyson Baker .625cal and a Kentucky rifle .45cal.
The three .69 cal all use different thicknesses and 1.5inch dia but using the same diameter on the .625 Baker very often results in the patch going down the barrel lopsided and not covering the ball properly. The Kentucky I use a 1 inch patch on the .45cal which seems to work perfectly.
Any tips guys?

The patch should be able to wrap around the ball. Bigger is better than too small and will not really effect accuracy.

Hi To be way too simple, the ideal diameter for a patch can be determined by cutting the patch at the muzzle. The patch completely wraps around the ball. You can prepare patches by punching out patch material using the largest dimension of the hole left in the patch material after cutting at the muzzle. It is not necessary for the patch to be perfectly round. Slightly larger is okay. You want a patch that will reliably wrap around the ball and is not too large. A square patch works just as well. Too large of a patch can interfere with your jag by catching on the ramrod.

Patch thickness is another arcane science altogether. So much is dependent upon the depth of the grooves, width of the lands, diameter of the ball and hardness of the ball. Sometimes the lubricant used on the patch plays a part. I would start with tightly woven patch material of 100% cotton that is as thick as the difference between the ball an land to land diameter of the barrel plus the depth of the groove. Patch material should be strong enough to compress to hold the ball on the lands and fill the grooves yet not get cut by the rifling or sharp edges at the crown of the muzzle. Lubricant aids in sealing the bore and controlling the fouling on loading.

Look at your patches after firing. There should be no tears or burn throughs. A star shaped pattern on the patch is what you are looking for. Mostly this becomes a trial and retrial process to find the ideal patching for your fire arm. Enjoy the process and get out and shoot.

I've found square patches to work just fine also; no difference in performance in my frontstuffers. But muzzleloaders are fussy and unique; your results could differ.

Oversize is OK. Cutting at the muzzle is most reliable. And most inexpensive.

If your ball and patch are going down lopsided, sever things may be happening.

Your patch may be too small.

Your ball starter diameter is too small and is "rocking" as you push the ball. Or, the larger bore diameter is allowing you to ram the ball at an angle rather than straight down the bore.
The larger bore offers a lot of side to side movement of the ramrod compared to a smaller bore especially if your rammer is steel.

Use a loading block and a muzzle guided loading rod to keep everything aligned perfectly.

Use a loading block and a muzzle guided loading rod to keep everything aligned perfectly.........
[/quote]

....OR, just cut at the muzzle. This will keep the patch size portion of our quest for consistency perfectly controlled. And so you dont lose your tottin chip card ALWAYS cut away from your self! :redface: Having just changed my "patch knife" to a newer (and much sharper) model I once cut the patch and the blade continued through my binocular straps and my shirt and I was lucky I dont have a scar!

The one answer nobody has mentioned....Practice,.....Lots of practice. :wink:

Take a piece of your patch material (washed, dried and maybe ironed) and start a ball. Use the cloth to remove the ball and use the marks to determine the patch size needed. I use square patches made in bulk from pillow ticking.

Darcytt said:

very often results in the patch going down the barrel lopsided and not covering the ball properly.

Click to expand...

That's a dickens isn't it?
Having to fumble an fuss to get it just so,,

You've got some good advise here,, keep reading and searching. :wink:

The best is over size patches will not cause a problem and will improve your loading skills and accuracy.
They're talking about this cut at the muzzle thing to create the best patch.

That means instead of buying round pre-cut and pre -lubricated patches that are marketed to take your money,,
,, that you actually buy the same kind of fabric and make your own,(?)
But how big should they be?
Well the cut/ripped piece of yard purchased fabric should be about 50cm wide and as long as ya want it for a 69,,
Then ya put it over the muzzle, put the ball on it and "start" the ball,, gather up the fabric,, and use a knife to cut the cloth off.
Viola, the perfect patch.
Again, any fabric left above/or over the seated patched ball matters not,, gather it up a bit so the rod starter doesn't get stuck or bound in the cloth and drive it home.
You study on that, :hmm: :grin:

Based on my method of calculating the best size for a roundball patch, your 1.5" diameter patches are a bit too small for your .69 caliber bore.

The calculation is based on the idea that the lower half of the ball has a circumference of (Pi X Dia)/2. Adding to this a distance from the contact point on the ball to the face of the muzzle, twice (because there is material on both sides of the ball), we get an answer.

For a .69 caliber bore we have:

(3.1416 X .69)/2 = 1.084

1.084 + .345 + .345 = 1.774 or, just a bit larger than 1 3/4" diameter.

I added the radius of the ball twice to show how the formula works. It's easier to just add the diameter of the ball which makes the formula:

[(3.1416 X D)/2] + D where D is the diameter of the bore.

For your .45, the patch diameter calculates at:

[(3.1416 X .45)/2] + .45 = 1.157 or just a bit smaller than 1 1/4.

It's OK to use larger diameter patches than these calculations suggest but using a patch that is smaller can cause problems like you are seeing.

Thanks guys for all your useful advice