• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Bore anti-rust formula

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Elkeater

45 Cal.
Joined
Nov 22, 2011
Messages
745
Reaction score
16
Location
Palmer Divide, Colorado
Heaven forbid I'm seeing a consensus here. An innumerable quantity of substances to prevent moisture from getting to our bores.

But most of us use moisture to clean the bore. So the most critical step in the cleaning procedure is to remove the cleaning moisture before we seal it in. I used to think WD-40 was good at that but I was wrong. Now I'm going with denatured alcohol or Heet. :yakyak:
 
HEET in the yellow bottle is denatured ethanol.

Ethanol has a very high affinity for water.

Other alcohols like 70% or 90% isopropyl or rubbing alcohol already have water added to them, so their affinity or capacity to remove water is greatly reduced..
 
CO Elkeater said:
Heaven forbid I'm seeing a consensus here. An innumerable quantity of substances to prevent moisture from getting to our bores.

But most of us use moisture to clean the bore. So the most critical step in the cleaning procedure is to remove the cleaning moisture before we seal it in. I used to think WD-40 was good at that but I was wrong. Now I'm going with denatured alcohol or Heet. :yakyak:

It is still good at that task.
Dry patches and maybe some carburetor cleaner squirted through the nipple or touchhole to boot. Then use the lube/protectant you have faith in at the moment.
 
CO Elkeater said:
Heaven forbid I'm seeing a consensus here. An innumerable quantity of substances to prevent moisture from getting to our bores.

But most of us use moisture to clean the bore. So the most critical step in the cleaning procedure is to remove the cleaning moisture before we seal it in. I used to think WD-40 was good at that but I was wrong. Now I'm going with denatured alcohol or Heet. :yakyak:

As you know, it is imperative to remove all traces of water from the parts of the gun after a cleaning. You need to use whatever you find that works for you. There is always more than one way to skin a cat. Once the moisture has been removed the focus changes to how to keep the gun from rusting. I have found that for a relatively short term storage, just a good gun or machine oil works very well. Some folks have reported very good results from a synthetic motor oil. For longer-term storage, I like to use a product such as Barricade. There are also other good products for this application. The secret is to use a product that provides an occlusive seal against moisture and oxygen and contains a corrosion inhibitor. That's my take, anyway. :thumbsup:
 
Denatured alcohol gets the nod. Its $12 a gallon at the local paint store. I then wile it down with balistol and this combination works for me.
 
It is?

The MSDS online says it is

**** SECTION 2 - COMPOSITION, INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS ****

Chemical Name CAS MIN MAX
Methanol 67-56-1 99 99
Proprietary Additive (none) 1 1



I don't think it matters though, eh?

:idunno:

LD
 
Loyalist Dave said:
It is?

The MSDS online says it is

**** SECTION 2 - COMPOSITION, INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS ****

Chemical Name CAS MIN MAX
Methanol 67-56-1 99 99
Proprietary Additive (none) 1 1



I don't think it matters though, eh?

:idunno:

LD

Dang!....You're right Dave....I think they changed it on me at some point.... :hmm:
It still works good.
Damn drunks were probably drinking it.

I've been using it cause I can buy it for less than $3.50 a gallon.

Thanks for correcting me.... :thumbsup:
 
Loyalist Dave said:
Well methanol does that and HEET is sold to absorb water in the fuel line and gas tank, so that would make sense. I think any alcohol would do that and speed the evaporation process.

LD

Heet absorbs the moisture and holds it in a sorta glob in the fuel tank.
I have never been an advocate of alcohol for use in any ml application (until campfire time). What is suggested to remove moisture seems counter productive to me. The alcohol might absorb the moisture in a bore, but when allowed to evaporate wouldn't the moisture still be left behind? :hmm: That's my reckoning. Serious scientists might have a different slant on that.
 
I tend to agree with you about the alcohol evaporating before any water that might be in it evaporates.

If anything, the increased cooling caused by the alcohol evaporating will reduce the tendency of the water to evaporate. Colder water evaporates more slowly than warm water.

That said, there is something the alcohol probably does to help dry things out.

If the water is in small nooks and crannies like the rifling grooves and the joint between the breech plug and the barrel form, the alcohol will absorb the water from these areas and distribute it throughout itself.

This will distribute the water in a thin, even layer. After the alcohol has evaporated, the now evenly distributed thin layer of water will easily evaporate quickly.
 
I tend to agree with you about the alcohol evaporating before any water that might be in it evaporates.

Simple solutions for simple problems.

Squirt the alcohol down the barrel. Then swab.

No book reading , smoking, or phone calls in between steps......They should be seamless.
 
Back
Top