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Login Name Post: Rust prevention...        (Topic#307410)
Sooter76 
40 Cal.
Posts: 211
05-14-18 01:51 PM - Post#1684663    


So down here in Texas I've noticed the weather isn't kind to black powder guns. For the most part this is easy to mitigate. I over oil during cleaning and touch up metal as needed whenever rust starts to appear. That said, I don't want to be taking the barrel out of the stock on a regular basis if I don't have to. This last weekend I did so and smeared the inside of the channel and the underside of the barrel with gun grease to try and prevent rust from attacking it.

Will this be enough to protect it from rust? Is there something more or different I can be doing? And am I being overly concerned without reason?

 
tenngun 
Cannon
Posts: 7749
tenngun
05-14-18 02:01 PM - Post#1684666    

    In response to Sooter76

I use furniture wax in my barrel channel. My guns are pinned and it’s rare for me to remove them. I haven’t had a problem.

 
1776Patriot 
40 Cal.
Posts: 311
05-14-18 03:37 PM - Post#1684682    

    In response to Sooter76

Brad Emig made my.54 cal. Yorktown rifle several years ago, and under the butt plate and barrel, he applied gun grease. No problems.

 
stubshaft 
40 Cal.
Posts: 435
stubshaft
05-14-18 04:02 PM - Post#1684683    

    In response to Sooter76

I use Alox under the barrel and buttplate.

 
Raedwald 
40 Cal.
Posts: 243
Raedwald
05-15-18 10:58 AM - Post#1684775    

    In response to Sooter76

On informed advice I now use water pump grease on the underside of my barrels. It is designed to cope with water temperatures beyond water boiling point and shrug off wetness. After all, it is meant to stay in place in bearings operating in more than boiling hot water rushing past for hour after hour.

 
Zug 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1313
05-15-18 11:24 AM - Post#1684778    

    In response to Raedwald

To all who apply grease or oil to the metal parts that come in contact with the wood do you have any issue with the grease or oil attacking the wood and making it "pulpy" - "soft" like old guns that have had the wood rot or fall apart from contact with oil?

 
Britsmoothy 
70 Cal.
Posts: 4453
05-15-18 12:40 PM - Post#1684791    

    In response to Zug

No mineral oil touches my black powder guns

Animal and veg products only.

B.

 
Colorado Clyde 
Cannon
Posts: 14653
Colorado Clyde
05-15-18 12:49 PM - Post#1684795    

    In response to Britsmoothy

Beeswax under the barrel
linseed or tung oil on the wood.


 
Britsmoothy 
70 Cal.
Posts: 4453
05-15-18 12:58 PM - Post#1684798    

    In response to Colorado Clyde

  • Colorado Clyde Said:
Beeswax under the barrel
linseed or tung oil on the wood.




 
Skychief 
69 Cal.
Posts: 3463
Skychief
05-15-18 03:32 PM - Post#1684811    

    In response to Britsmoothy

I've used beeswax under barrel to good effect.

 
19 16 6 
40 Cal.
Posts: 387
05-15-18 09:06 PM - Post#1684878    

    In response to Zug

  • Zug Said:
To all who apply grease or oil to the metal parts that come in contact with the wood do you have any issue with the grease or oil attacking the wood and making it "pulpy" - "soft" like old guns that have had the wood rot or fall apart from contact with oil?



I would venture to bet that situation will yet happen to their gun, given enough time. Just like the old guns you mention.
Wood does not like to be soaked in gun oil or grease, & all old stocks attest to this.
The waxes & tung oil mentioned are far better treatments as they nourish & preserve as well as seal against moisture.
Paint is the best rust preventer & the reason why your car is covered in it. The colour is only a secondary consideration to the protection of the metal.
O.


 
RJDH 
40 Cal.
Posts: 307
05-16-18 07:27 AM - Post#1684912    

    In response to 19 16 6

The old British Lee Enfields had a coating of grease everywhere, and have not as yet rotted, so I use a light greasing and no worries, Or, a coating of deer tallow. both work.


 
19 16 6 
40 Cal.
Posts: 387
05-16-18 09:04 AM - Post#1684924    

    In response to RJDH

Was that grease or cosmoline ?on the 303
Neither do the wood any good. Big mess.
O.

 
hanshi 
Cannon
Posts: 8433
05-16-18 04:52 PM - Post#1684992    

    In response to Sooter76

First I seal the barrel channel using True Oil. And on a few rifles I wipe the underside of the barrel with gun grease. I've also used furniture was on occasion.

 
Snakebite 
45 Cal.
Posts: 804
Snakebite
05-16-18 09:07 PM - Post#1685012    

    In response to Sooter76

I live in the Fort Hood area too, lived in Austin when I got my first muzzleloader. Also lived in Louisiana, Kentucky and Germany. I’ve never had an issue with rust on the underside of a barrel. I don’t go out in the rain normally to shoot. And have never hunted with a muzzleloader in really bad weather.

 
RJDH 
40 Cal.
Posts: 307
05-16-18 10:24 PM - Post#1685019    

    In response to 19 16 6

Good evening Queensland.

Only a big mess if you pull it apart. Better grease in there than water.
No not cosmoline. Grease. I forget the Armourer's designation for it. Will get back to you.

 
Rifleman1776 
Cannon
Posts: 14570
Rifleman1776
05-17-18 08:27 AM - Post#1685039    

    In response to Colorado Clyde

  • Quote:
tung oil on the wood.




No doubt, pure tung oil is a durable and moisture resistant finish. But, it is permanent and very tough. I did my BB with it almost 50 years ago and put inside all the inlets also. Still in good shape and protecting. However, for a fine rifle I don't know if this is the best looking finish one would want. IMHO, the answer is 'no'. Can look like a plastic finish unless dulled with steel wool or something.

 
Eric Krewson 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1732
Eric Krewson
05-17-18 08:48 AM - Post#1685043    

    In response to Rifleman1776

I guess I don't have a dog in this race, If I get caught out in the rain I pull my barrel, dry everything off and leave the barrel out over night to let the barrel channel dry out, I give it a shot or two with a heat gun to speed the process.

I have a couple coats of finish in the barrel channel, nothing special, Chambers or Tru-oil.

I wipe the barrel down with Barricade and reinstall it. I have never found rust on the lower barrel flats even if the barrel has been in place for years. No grease for me. I have two browned barrels and two grayed barrels, the gray offers almost no rust protection but they still don't rust with my normal treatment.

 
Rifleman1776 
Cannon
Posts: 14570
Rifleman1776
05-17-18 01:59 PM - Post#1685074    

    In response to Eric Krewson

  • Quote:
Barricade



Barricade is often mentioned here. We now have a half dozen large gun shops in my area, plus Walmart. None have ever even heard of Barricade and don't know what it is. Even at Bass Pro Shops in Springfield, MO I get only blank stares when I ask for it. Yes, is available online but I don't care to pay $8.00 shipping for a $6.00 can of something.

 
Ames 
45 Cal.
Posts: 782
Ames
05-17-18 02:05 PM - Post#1685077    

    In response to Rifleman1776

I'd pay the shipping. One spray can will last you a lifetime.

 
Rifleman1776 
Cannon
Posts: 14570
Rifleman1776
05-18-18 08:43 AM - Post#1685186    

    In response to Ames

  • Ames Said:
I'd pay the shipping. One spray can will last you a lifetime.



Getting over my cheap might be a big hurdle. But, I might do it.

 
Zonie 
Moderator
Posts: 26563
Zonie
05-18-18 02:06 PM - Post#1685242    

    In response to Rifleman1776

The Bass Pro shop in Mesa, Arizona shows Barricade in a aerosol can @ $11.99 each.

I mention this because if it is available at one Bass Pro shop, it should be in the dealers catalog at all Bass Pro shops so, you local store should be able to order it for you.

Brownells is offering Barricade in a 4 1/2 ounce can for about $7.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/oils-lubric...

I don't know what their postage is but that can will last you for years.

You don't pour the stuff onto the gun so it isn't like taking a oil can and giving it a couple of big squirts.
All it takes is one light coat of the stuff to do the job. You do this by dampening a patch and then wiping it on the metal, both inside the bore and on all the external surfaces.

After it is applied it will seem to evaporate but it is still protecting the surfaces.

That is one of the neat things about the product.
Because it seems to dry, it won't effect the powder charge the next time you load.
You don't have to wipe it out before loading.

It will not cause any hard fouling if you use this method.

Get some. You will be happy.
Just Jim...



 
azmntman 
75 Cal.
Posts: 5549
azmntman
05-18-18 10:45 PM - Post#1685341    

    In response to Zonie

....and we all need to be happy! I got some and I'm happy

 
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