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WD-40 Issues

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rodwha

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On another forum I’m reading how a couple of guys, one who has used WD-40 for over 40 yrs, has said it has worked flawlessly.

When I first began shooting my BP guns I also used WD-40. But I read of many who claimed they had issues with it gumming up or creating some sort of issues. I switched to Ballistol after that as I was shown that it will mix with any water but allow it to evaporate leaving just the oil. I’ve had no issues and love it. And there’s no removing of some chemical to then oil it. And it’s good for both wood and leather. Not to mention this is what it was designed for.

So I’m looking for those who have indeed had issues from using WD-40.
 
After I clean I use it to displace water (WD), then wipe it out. I do not leave it on anything. It is a fine and inexpensive product. Some use alcohol for the same purpose.
 
I have had a 40+ year battle against well meaning "helpers" who would clean and lubricate our Boy Scout muzzle loading shooting equipment with WD40. Storage rust and gummy locks were only part of the problems caused. Of course, a gummy lock can be temporarily freed up with another squirt of WD40. I love the stuff in my boat when the trusty Evinrude won't start, but it has no place around guns. No amount of logic or reasoning will dissuade the WD40 enthusiasts even when the WD40 "lubed" gate lock won't budge. The fix? You guessed it, more WD40!
 
Ethanol is much better at displacing water than WD-40 in my opinion....

I say "ethanol" 100% aka Denatured alcohol, because some people use 70% or 90% isopropyl. That other 10-30% is water....It doesn't make sense to add water when you're trying to displace it.
 
I hate WD40 on any firearm. Don't like that it gets everywhere, and particularly won't use it on any of my muzzleloaders. Some like it, and that's fine for them. It's just a zero for me and I'm sure some others as well.
 
Not to mention this is what it was designed for.

Not true.... WD-40® -which stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try””is still in use today. Convair, an aerospace contractor, first used WD-40® to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion.

It was never designed for muzzleloader use.

As soon as the military tested Fluid-film It issued an immediate cease order and switched....The Navy did the same.

Using WD-40 IMO. is the second fastest way to ruin a muzzleloader...The quickest way is to not clean it at all.


Additionally, Yesterday I grabbed a gun to dispatch a woodchuck and discovered the horror of Black MZ... It is lauded as being "virtually non-corrosive"....But what they don't tell you is that it is corrosive without having been fired. and it doesn't even need direct contact...only time and close proximity.

Upon re-reading the original post I see you were taking about Ballistol.... Apply my comments to WD-40 only.
 
Use it for what it was originally designed for and not as a lubricant or oil. It is a water displacement fluid not a lubricant. I use it sparingly on the outside of my modern guns and muzzloaders after my handling of the firearm. I will run a patch LIGHTLY moistened with it through my rifle bore for short term storage before my next outing. Too much of the stuff sprayed into the internals of modern guns or muzzloaders will definitely gum up the works for sure :nono: :doh: !
 
Lotta guys show up in our salty air and haul their guns in boats, still believing that WD-40 is a good rust preventer. That mistake is quite a good business for gunsmiths rebluing guns.
 
On another forum I’m reading how a couple of guys, one who has used it for over 40 yrs, has said it has worked flawlessly.

Same on this forum. I have never had a problem with WD-40. Once did a test and posted here trying to demonstrate that WD-40 can gum up. Complete failure. No gumming, no film, no nothing bad. It is fine for light lubing, freeing stuck parts and short term storage. OTOH, I have tried Ballistol and believe it should be renamed Godzilla glue. Gums up sumptin awful. BTW, Norman Larsen, the inventor, once told me personally, it was designed as a water displacement, un-sticker and lube for high voltage switches that were in a high humidity location. It is a pure petroleum product and not Martian fish oil :shocked2: as some have claimed.
 
BTW, Norman Larsen, the inventor, once told me personally, it was designed as a water displacement, un-sticker and lube for high voltage switches that were in a high humidity location.

Odd considering WD-40 is highly flammable...especially the old formula.... :idunno:
I once saw a guy set himself on fire using WD-40 as a electric motor lubricant...

I guess if Remington ever brings back the Electric muzzleloader we'll know what to clean it with.... :haha:
 
When opinion is divided as sharply as over the quality of WD40, there is a good chance it's not the WD40 that's at the root of the disagreement, but the way the opposing sides are using the stuff. It cannot be true that it's magic in a spray can, cures every evil known to guns and at the same time totally destructive, glue in a spray can. Might be instructive to compare methods of use instead of preaching pro or con about WD40.

I know, I know, too logical by far.

Spence
 
WD40 and Ballistol have both their respective supporters and detractors. My personal experience with WD40 (which is the topic here) is that it will dry to a sticky gum, attract dust and goo up the works. There are better products for storage and others for lubricants.
 
Good point Spence. I have used WD-40 for years in my cleaning of muzzle loaders. I use it sparingly to help displace water after cleaning the barrel. It is followed by a dry patch and then for years I used a few drops of oil on a patch to coat the bore. I now used Baracade for that. I still use a drop of oil or two on the lock. I also wipe the surface of steel parts with oil each time I clean the firearm. I've personally not experienced problems with things being gummed up or residue that I am aware of. I have several muzzleloaders and cap and ball revolvers that I have personally had for over 40 years that haven't had rust issues.
 
Kansas Jake said:
Good point Spence. I have used WD-40 for years in my cleaning of muzzle loaders. I use it sparingly to help displace water after cleaning the barrel. It is followed by a dry patch and then for years I used a few drops of oil on a patch to coat the bore. I now used Baracade for that. I still use a drop of oil or two on the lock. I also wipe the surface of steel parts with oil each time I clean the firearm. I've personally not experienced problems with things being gummed up or residue that I am aware of. I have several muzzleloaders and cap and ball revolvers that I have personally had for over 40 years that haven't had rust issues.

50 years of use here, and if you soak down a firearm with any oil and not wipe it down afterward, it will gum up.
Folks tend to repeat negative reports without ever using the product themselves.
A properly cleaned and stored firearm will not rust.
 
Colorado Clyde said:
BTW, Norman Larsen, the inventor, once told me personally, it was designed as a water displacement, un-sticker and lube for high voltage switches that were in a high humidity location.

Odd considering WD-40 is highly flammable...especially the old formula.... :idunno:
I once saw a guy set himself on fire using WD-40 as a electric motor lubricant...

I guess if Remington ever brings back the Electric muzzleloader we'll know what to clean it with.... :haha:

Was he talking about Ballistol, what did Norman Lawson invent? The line preceding your quote:

"OTOH, I have tried Ballistol and believe it should be renamed Godzilla glue. Gums up sumptin awful"
 
George said:
When opinion is divided as sharply as over the quality of WD40, there is a good chance it's not the WD40 that's at the root of the disagreement, but the way the opposing sides are using the stuff. It cannot be true that it's magic in a spray can, cures every evil known to guns and at the same time totally destructive, glue in a spray can. Might be instructive to compare methods of use instead of preaching pro or con about WD40.

I know, I know, too logical by far.

Spence

Spot on Spence....Individual use and conditions determine success or failure...
The sharp divide about WD-40's use and success should serve a word of caution to any newbie...
One thing I've noticed is that the guys who live in arid climates tend to complain less about WD-40 than guys in humid climates do.... :hmm:

When it comes to rust...I don't take any product for granted....People can screw up even the very best of products....
 
I have used WD 40 for years on muzzle loading arms. I used to find that I would get a ring of hard fouling near where the ball would be seated. I spoke to a gunsmith mate in the US to find out what they used in their rifle bores and got told sweet oil. I still use a little WD40 to get rid of any moisture, then a couple of dry patches to wipe it all out, then either virgin olive oil or ballistic. No more fouling ring. I also find with my cap and balls and olive oil, I do not have to cap off before an event, so save caps as well. Western Australia is a dry climate just to clarify, so that may be a reason my method works for me. I do put a patch down a few days later to check and re oil with olive oil or ballistic. I do prefer the olive oil over ballistic.

Cheers Heelerau.
 
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