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Login Name Post: Rebuilding a Mendi Wheellock        (Topic#307098)
dd832 
40 Cal.
Posts: 200
08-13-18 07:00 PM - Post#1697608    

    In response to dd832

Pile of Parts photo - most filed & polished to 240 grit:


I'll have to take a photo of all the other parts I made but didn't work out - it's about as much as the finished parts.

The wheel brace is mounted on an aluminum bar for filing & polishing (lower right). I still need to thin the bridle (upper left) and polish the exterior parts to another grit or 2.

 
RJDH 
40 Cal.
Posts: 313
08-14-18 09:10 AM - Post#1697680    

    In response to dd832

You've done a Very fine job, Mike!!

Hat is off to you.

Richard.

 
dd832 
40 Cal.
Posts: 200
08-17-18 11:25 PM - Post#1698364    

    In response to RJDH

Finally able to get away from polishing and machined the bridle top thinner:


I initially mounted the bridle on the lathe with a 1/4-20 brass screw. I was able to machine around the spindle pivot but there was too much chatter to finish it on the lathe. Here is the bridle after draw filing & polishing:


 
dd832 
40 Cal.
Posts: 200
08-24-18 04:58 PM - Post#1699487    

    In response to dd832

Finished polishing the metal (enough for me anyway). Found on another forum that said 400 grit is the minimum polish for hardening. 400 grit is min. to show case hardening colors well, but these parts will have any colors (if any) polished off. I will use wood charcoal & activated charcoal to harden and will probably not get much color, mostly grays.
Here's a photo of my container:


The container is 1/8" thick steel x 2" x 3" x 8-1/8" tall. The top is 1/4" steel with 1/4" steel tabs on the sides. The tabs are offset from each other.

The container is a lot tighter inside than I thought it would be. It is okay for a percussion lock or flintlock but a little small for a wheellock. I'm going to mount the spindle brace and wheel brace on the plate to stabilize it against warping.

update later next week after the conflagration, Mike

 
dd832 
40 Cal.
Posts: 200
09-02-18 04:23 PM - Post#1700895    

    In response to dd832

Finally did the case hardening this morning (9:30 -1:00). I used Royal Oak charcoal from Home Depot, smashed up to a fine granule and activated charcoal also smashed up (finally used a clay brick as the weapon of choice to pulverize both charcoals - I kept sifting & pulverizing).

Here's a photo of the elaborate fire pit:

I added more concrete bricks to the sides of the pit during the burn. I had 5 buckets of water,4 buckets of sand, a garden hose, a shovel and various other hand tools.

After cooking for about 2-1/2 hours, I let the fire die down for another 1/2 hour, removed the container from the pit, took off the steel cover and dumped the contents into a 5 gallon plastic bucket that I had filled the day before. When I quenched I used a face shield, hat, leather gloves & an old leather jacket. Here are the results straight out of the quench bucket:


I didn't have room in the container for the dog (pyrite holder), so it will have to wait for another day. The parts have set out for about a 1/2 hour now & are starting to rust, but here's one more shot of the back of the lock plate:


I had never done hardening before today and the results were much better than I expected.
Mike

 
Griz44Mag 
40 Cal.
Posts: 417
09-03-18 09:38 AM - Post#1700949    

    In response to dd832

I am just in total awe. Fantastic results.
TX-GRIZ

Load 'em up - Light 'em up -Make some smoke - Bang some steel!


 
dd832 
40 Cal.
Posts: 200
09-03-18 11:33 AM - Post#1700960    

    In response to Griz44Mag

  • Griz44Mag Said:
I am just in total awe. Fantastic results.



Well thanks Grizz, but you shouldn't be in awe of me - it's mostly dumb luck & making thing over 2 or 3 times.

I'm in awe of the hardening because I expected just mottled gray colors. I read lots of posts about hardening and all the special charcoals (wood, bone, leather) people use and using rain water & aeration & putting oil on top to the water or nitrate in the water - and in the end I used pulverized oak charcoal & activated charcoal used in aquariums, the water is just city fluoride H2O in a used bucket with latex paint stuck to the bottom. (I filter the city water to drink it because it tastes like it came out of a swimming pool)

This project has taken a long time because - 1. I only work on the project 3 or 4 days a week for 3 to 5 hour max. (it's only a hobby!); 2. I haven't done this before; 3. I don't know what the heck I'm doing - no plans per se, but using the Mendi lock as a "go by" and looking at the Lauber wheellock plans & a German plan for reference; 4. I do a lot of reference of others who have done this type of work; 5. Rome wasn't built in a day and neither was this wheellock.

Mike

 
dd832 
40 Cal.
Posts: 200
09-03-18 06:34 PM - Post#1701000    

    In response to dd832

I annealed the harden parts in the oven this morning after one of the 10-24 screws broke off in the lock plate (it snapped like a thin potato chip). I put the parts in a heavy metal pan at 390°F for 1 hour and let them cool down in the oven - no more problems after the one broken screw. The colors did get darker but they seem very fragile. Here's 2 photos of the completed wheellock:




I'm using a 5/16" dia. ferro rod in lieu of pyrite but it doesn't produce many sparks - will have to tinker some more it seems. Mike


 
dd832 
40 Cal.
Posts: 200
09-04-18 01:37 PM - Post#1701095    

    In response to dd832

Wheellock parts that I made over for various reasons during the build:


 
Rolf 
40 Cal.
Posts: 147
09-04-18 02:24 PM - Post#1701098    

    In response to dd832

Really impressiv build!! I hope you will post Your Experiments With trying to get it to get it to spark. We are Learning alot from you. Hope some day to build a wheellock from the Lauber plans.


Best regards
Rolf

 
wulf 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1648
09-06-18 10:13 PM - Post#1701444    

    In response to dd832

I use even a smaller 'fire stick' and get plenty
sparks. I also rotate the 'fire stick' for each shot.

Wulf

 
Zonie 
Moderator
Posts: 26745
Zonie
09-07-18 02:00 PM - Post#1701525    

    In response to dd832

  • Quote:
I'm using a 5/16" dia. ferro rod in lieu of pyrite but it doesn't produce many sparks - will have to tinker some more it seems. Mike



Perhaps, if you add more serrations to the outside of the wheel it will increase the amount of sparks?

I notice the serrations are in sets of three with a rather long distance between them.
Just Jim...



 
wulf 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1648
09-07-18 05:50 PM - Post#1701548    

    In response to Zonie

I agree with Zonie. All mine look like a file....

Wulf

 
dd832 
40 Cal.
Posts: 200
09-08-18 02:36 AM - Post#1701595    

    In response to wulf

I guess I'll follow the suggestions & cut more teeth into the wheel. I have a suspicion that the wheel isn't hard enough but I'll find out tomorrow.

Thanks everyone, Mike

 
dd832 
40 Cal.
Posts: 200
09-08-18 04:20 PM - Post#1701674    

    In response to dd832

Took the lock apart this morning and the wheel is NOT hard! So I need to get some other locks apart and ready them for hardening and do them & the wheel again.

I think the fire never got hot enough to cook the parts in the upper part of the container. When I poured the parts into the water the charcoal was not red like I've seen in other photos, but it was just black soot-like looking.

So maybe another week or so until I can get back to hardening again.

 
Crewdawg445 
58 Cal.
Posts: 2153
Crewdawg445
09-11-18 07:35 AM - Post#1702054    

    In response to dd832

No way shape or form do wheel locks intrigue me, however the craftsmanship of this build has. Phenomenal work indeed sir, very well done.
Listen, or your tounge will make you deaf.


 
wulf 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1648
09-15-18 04:45 PM - Post#1702739    

    In response to dd832

If you are going to use "fire sticks" you need the
wheel to be hard...

Wulf

 
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