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Login Name Post: Lube wads, over ball lube,lube cookie        (Topic#307054)
bigted 
40 Cal.
Posts: 422
bigted
04-01-18 09:50 PM - Post#1677695    


Have tried all three and wonder why my lube over ball system is all that works for me.

The lubed felt wads dont seem to work for me for some reason.i get leaded bores every time AND my colts gum up very fast using them.

Same thing happens with the lube cookies.

Now my theory is that my (what some call too messy) lube ovrr the ball pre lubes the barrel before the ball goes down the barrel. Then each shot therafter does the same thimg shot after shot. The lube gets shoved down the bore ahead of the fired ball lubing ahead each time

What say yee?

 
hawkeye2 
58 Cal.
Posts: 2254
04-01-18 10:25 PM - Post#1677697    

    In response to bigted

Lube over the ball has always worked for me and I believe that it's important to lube the forcing cone and barrel ahead of the ball. Cookies, wads etc. behind the ball may work but I've never used them. The only things I have ever put under the ball are powder and Cream Of Wheat.

 
Flintlock Bob 
40 Cal.
Posts: 135
04-02-18 11:27 AM - Post#1677748    

    In response to bigted

Don't know. Everyone has their own system. I use packaged felt wads and balls I cast which are a bit harder than pure lead. Last session with my 1860 Colt Army I shot 7 cylinders, no wiping anything just load and shoot. The only thing that started to bind up was the loading lever and a drop of oil fixed that. Swab the barrel with water and it's clean.

 
Heelerau 
45 Cal.
Posts: 529
04-02-18 05:24 PM - Post#1677812    

    In response to bigted

I use a hard 1/4inch felt wad greased with minnie lube, which is 5 parts beeswax to 1 by volume of lard. The wad goes over the powder, under the ball. I use this method in both my Navy .36 and 3rd model dragoon. I get no leading, no multiple discharges. My cylinders do not bind up, I do use water pump grease on the cylinder arbor. I used to shoot cowboy action with my cap and balls only and both pistols loaded like this never gave me either leading or powder fouling problems.
I wonder if your felt wads are to soft and the lube not up to the job?

Edited by Heelerau on 04-02-18 05:26 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bigted 
40 Cal.
Posts: 422
bigted
04-02-18 07:27 PM - Post#1677847    

    In response to Heelerau

Very well may be. They are wonder wad style felt of 1/8th inch but to be honest i never gave em a chance after i beheld a very leaded bore.

I have had such great luck with the lube over the ball that i have not given any thing else a fair try. My lube is half bee wax half Vaseline then added 1/4 volume olive oil to soften up to smear on the cylinder face after loaded.

I have never used this lube soaked into felt wads so maybe i should soak some 1/8th felt wads to saturation and give em a try. Would like to get wads to work but can't wrap my mind round that chunk of lead to not lead the barrel with no lube over it to be shoved down the barrel ahead of the boolit/ball.

 
Heelerau 
45 Cal.
Posts: 529
04-02-18 10:47 PM - Post#1677880    

    In response to bigted

Mate, I think the secret is the thicker 1/4 hard felt that I cut the wad from, you could just use beeswax.
I am leary of any lube that has a petroleum based component, the exception to that is the mix I use to lube my Enfield paper cartridges.

Cheers and good luck

Edited by Heelerau on 04-02-18 10:48 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Coot 
69 Cal.
Posts: 3079
04-03-18 02:28 PM - Post#1677976    

    In response to Heelerau

Years ago, I used white lithium grease, loaded in a paste wormer tube/syringe (free empty tubes at any horse farm) over the balls in my 1851 navy. Messy but no lead buildup, no binding & easy to clean. Did I mention messy?

 
azmntman 
75 Cal.
Posts: 5036
azmntman
04-03-18 05:35 PM - Post#1678005    

    In response to Coot

Is it messy?



 
M.D. 
70 Cal.
Posts: 4755
04-04-18 12:27 AM - Post#1678053    

    In response to bigted

I got some Durafelt 1/8 inch material and cut out my own wads,soaked them in melted bullet lube and cooled them out on wax paper.
So far they seem to work very well and are not nearly as messy as the lube over ball shooting I have been doing for the last 50 years. Some of us are slow learner's I guess!
I still need to do some accuracy comparative testing though with both methods.

 
bigted 
40 Cal.
Posts: 422
bigted
04-04-18 07:42 PM - Post#1678187    

    In response to M.D.

MD, i would be interested in your accuracy tests using both methods.

Your home made felt wads, what bullet lube do you use and do you never get leading? Also i assume your shooting round balls or are you using conicals?

 
M.D. 
70 Cal.
Posts: 4755
04-04-18 09:38 PM - Post#1678202    

    In response to bigted

The lube is some home made stuff I had given to me that looks like a mixture of bees wax and graphite powder.
It seems to work without leading but my preferred black powder lube is one I got from Paul Mathews book that he used. Neats foot oil 1/4 cup, Murphy's oil soap 1/4 cup, melted bees way 1/2 cup. It does have a reaction when the Murphy's is added but is really good for hot weather as it does not melt and drool all over the place like SPG and some other black powder lube. It works equally well with smokeless powder as bullet lube.
I plan on dropping fresh cut Duro-felt wads into it while still liquid before it sets up so it will saturate them, then pick out the wads with forceps and put the rest in plastic lube tubes when set up for bullets.
Yes round balls.

Edited by M.D. on 04-04-18 09:40 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Golfswithwolves 
40 Cal.
Posts: 408
04-05-18 11:41 AM - Post#1678268    

    In response to M.D.

One other method which might be worth a try is to place a dab of lube UNDER the ball and over the wad (GeoJohn's method). I though use a 1/16" thick felt wad made by slicing the regular wad into two, and my lube is GeoJohn's suggested 85%/15% Crisco and beeswax. Cleaning up the revolver after shooting is made very easy and the thin wad allows adequate powder capacity with minimal increase of the total charge weight. Also no messy lube is over the ball. So far this is the method I prefer over the others.

Edited by Golfswithwolves on 04-05-18 11:47 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
M.D. 
70 Cal.
Posts: 4755
04-05-18 03:19 PM - Post#1678309    

    In response to Golfswithwolves

Good idea,I'll have to give that a try. How do you get the same amount of lube each time under the bullet?

 
Golfswithwolves 
40 Cal.
Posts: 408
04-05-18 05:03 PM - Post#1678325    

    In response to M.D.

Mr. M.D.- I use a small "artist's" palette knife to scoop an approximate equal ammount of lube each time, and chronograph velocities seem to indicate that this is close enough for my purposes. But I used to just use my index finger for the same thing; there's not too much room in the chamber once the powder and wad are in place so eyeballing the lube volume is likely OK (I only use a pea-sized dab or less). I hope you have success if you try this method, but please report your experience! Thanks, GWW

Edited by Golfswithwolves on 04-05-18 05:05 PM. Reason for edit: bad spelling

 
bigted 
40 Cal.
Posts: 422
bigted
04-14-18 04:19 PM - Post#1679586    

    In response to Golfswithwolves

Well have time today so will saturate some wads to try under my round balls. Might just pan lube some conicals as well while i have the lube melted.

 
Redstick Lee 
32 Cal.
Posts: 21
Redstick Lee
04-16-18 08:06 AM - Post#1679905    

    In response to bigted

Uberti '58 Remmy 5.5" .44
28-30 gr. BP, under 1/4" .45 wad punched from thrift store hats lubed with 50%/50% parrafin (cheaper in bulk) and olive oil under .454" swaged ball.

no mess, easy cleanup, minimal leading, 5" steel plate goes CLANK @25 yds. every time I pull the trigger......

for an old timer with bad eyes and shaky hands, I can't ask much better........

 
bigted 
40 Cal.
Posts: 422
bigted
04-16-18 08:26 PM - Post#1680018    

    In response to Redstick Lee

Redstick, a hearty welcome to the madness.

 
Redstick Lee 
32 Cal.
Posts: 21
Redstick Lee
04-16-18 09:59 PM - Post#1680032    

    In response to bigted

many thanks........i've had black nostrils for a long time now......in the late '70s I shot +/- 40gr. under .451 balls with crisco overlube in a brass 1851 Fie Colt copy, before I realized what caused all that spitting and the old gun literally started falling apart.
Live and learn lol

 
smoothshooter 
45 Cal.
Posts: 954
04-16-18 10:27 PM - Post#1680041    

    In response to bigted

I have gotten as many as 96 shots ( and could have gotten many more ) without cleaning my Uberti 1851 Navy using a mixture of olive oil and beeswax to lube the arbor and felt wads. Cylinder still rotated easily. I get similar results with my Uberti 1860 Army.
Sometimes I use .36 caliber wads in the .44, or cut up .44 wads into halves for the .36 if I run short of one size or another.
Don't get hung up on wad size-even square ones work fine. All you need is something to hold the lube. NO WAD IS EVER A GOOD GAS SEAL IN A REVOLVER.
I quit using grease over the ball decades ago. Just makes a big mess and does nothing to prevent chain fires.
I don't have trouble with leading either.


Edited by smoothshooter on 04-16-18 10:29 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
GoodCheer 
Cannon
Posts: 6061
GoodCheer
04-17-18 07:54 AM - Post#1680065    

    In response to smoothshooter

The design of revolver bullets and how a design can be adapted to long arm use has been an item of interest for me for quite a while. Something along the lines of a long revolver bullet, flat bottom or hollow bottom, that works as a short rifle bullet. Or interchangeability such as shooting .38 or .45 round ball in both your revolver and your rifle. The manner in which lube is supplied is certainly part of the fun and there's never one way that is the way. It's always what works best for a given gun, projectile, charge and lube... on Wednesday. Thursday might be different.

 
Heelerau 
45 Cal.
Posts: 529
04-18-18 04:00 PM - Post#1680363    

    In response to M.D.

MD, I have been shooting black powder for nearly as long as yourself, I too only started using Durafelt 1/8 wads several years ago, and wonder why I did not do this years ago. I am a slow learner as well. Still better late than never.

cheers

Heeler

 
smoothshooter 
45 Cal.
Posts: 954
04-18-18 09:30 PM - Post#1680437    

    In response to Heelerau

I make my wads out of Dura-Felt sheets and am very pleased with the sheets and the end product.

Edited by smoothshooter on 04-18-18 09:37 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Kansas Jake 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1329
04-19-18 10:02 AM - Post#1680509    

    In response to smoothshooter

My wife bought some wool at the local JoAnn's for a craft project she was working on. She ended up with a number of scrap pieces she no longer needed. She had washed and dried the wool before the project to get it to shrink and stiffen. I used the scrap to make wads for my revolvers and they seem to work as well as the ones I've made from Durofelt. They may be a little thinner, but after impregnating with a lard/beeswax/parafin mixture there is not much difference in thickness. Being frugal, I just had to give them a try.

I think the key was washing the wool in hot water and drying in a clothes dryer to get the wool to shrink and tighten up.

 
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