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Shellac the Barrel trough ? Pedersoli Navy Moll Kentucky Pistol

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CaseHardened

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I believe the best method of cleaning this firearm is by removing the Barrel.

The Pedersoli Navy Moll has no removable pins or wedges. Just two screws - a nice substantial one by the Breech, and a wimpy, scary one at the Muzzle. Both enter a threaded hole in the Barrel - no wood screws. Grace N2, H2, and G3 fit very well (the N2 is for the Vent insert).

At first I was going to buy some pre-mixed Shellac at Home Depot. Then thought better of it, as in "Why am I buying this amateur manure ?"

So I did some research, and bought 1/2 lb of Kusmi Amber Buttons on eBay for $20. Unlike the pre-mixed Shellac, stored properly, it lasts forever.

Now I need alcohol. Rather than the nasty, poisonous Denatured Alcohol, I'm buying a 750ml Bottle of 190 Proof EVERCLEAR - $15. If I don't use it up with shellac, I can drink it !

But I do anticipate an issue with Shellac. It actually is used as an ADHESIVE in some applications ! I need to remove the Barrel, so I must be cautious I don't inadvertently glue it in.

I'm going to apply several very light coats. Not enough to build any shine; just enough to seal the raw grain. For all I know Pedersoli has done this already, but I am assuming they have not.

When dry, I am applying heavy Carnauba Wax to the trough.

Then I expect to be in good shape.
 
In between coats I'll use a SANDING SPONGE that I'll have cut up to fit the internal facets perfectly (it's a hexagonal barrel).
 
Because raw wood is subject to getting soiled, and is prey to changes in temperature and especially humidity.

It also can change dimensionally, and even twist and warp.
 
I think it's a good idea to seal the wood. I do it in all the hidden places when I do stock work even under inlays. Having a bottle of Everclear around is wise too! But for sealing wood I feel there are better products then shellac in this application. True Oil thinned with mineral oil will penatrate well and leaves a thin coat. I'm sure you're better off with any kind of sealer then the factory job. :thumbsup:
 
Yes, that would work, too.

Even just wax would be good - BUT...

I want something that is removable, and although Shellac does penetrate a bit, the upper layer can be removed with alcohol at any time - even centuries later.

Once I waxed it I could never shellac it. The wax would foul up any subsequent finish.
 
CaseHardened said:
For all I know Pedersoli has done this already,
That's a really good bet considering there has never been a report about Pedersoli failing to provide anything but a finished gun to my knowledge.
but I am assuming they have not.
Ok, then have fun.
 
I removed the Butt Cap (held on with a single small wood screw), and was very surprised to discover that there is no finish applied there at all ! And how light the original Maple is.

I will definitely applying a light coat of shellac there.

As far as the Barrel Trough goes, it is clear that there is some factory finish there (remember I bought this used, and it is possible the former owner finished this area, but I doubt it).

The trough is hexagonal, to fit the barrel. The Hammer Side is dull; the Opposite Side shiny.

I do not expect there is any purpose to this difference. Just a variance in application of the shellac at the factory.

So my revised plan is to make the Hammer Side as shiny as the other, and to lightly wax the Barrel only.

As long as the shellac is hard and dry before I replace the Barrel, I'm not going to worry about it sticking in place.

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I do use a cotton swab q-tip type to get every spot I can in the lock mortise under side plate under triggerplate and guard. When I’ve had guns with plates for pins or keys plates under them too.
I’ve also painted thes spots with melted bees wax, or furniture wax after oiling.
 
I simply prefer Shellac to Tung, Linseed, or other oils.

A shellaced piece of wood is less messy than an oiled piece.

It just personal preference.

As it is, I know none of these things I am doing is in any way necessary. It's simply a satisfying hobby.
 
I don't see any raw maple inside the lock.

And I am known to lose screws and break things.

So I'm not disassembling the poor thing any further.
 
I love Q-Tips, or better yet, the wood-handled generic ones.

But I hate the fuzz the cotton can leave.

I'm probably going to use a nice old-fashioned bristle brush to apply the shellac.

Or Linen. Linen is used in wood finishing because, unlike cotton, it rarely leaves lint behind.
 
I haven't been inside a huge number of original pistols, but have been inside a few.

It seems that on Military and cheaper civilian pistols, Oil Finish was placed only in the barrel channel, if it was anywhere inside the pistol at all. Military Pistols normally did not have Oil Finish even inside the barrel channels, though the channels sometimes show stains from Oil/Grease from the barrel stained the wood.

I have been inside only three or four higher grade Civilian Pistols and all of them except perhaps one, had at least one coat of finish in the barrel channel. I wasn't sure about the one, whether it had a coat of Oil there or not.

Bristle Brushes, even from an "Acid Brush," will leave loose bristles in the finish.

When I'm putting a coat of Tru Oil inside the barrel channel, lock mortise and other areas, I use a "throw away" wool dauber sold by Tandy and other leather companies for dyeing leather. They might leave tiny wool "hairs" in the finish, but either you can pick them out or just forget them as they are not as noticeable as loose bristles from a bristle brush and won't hurt anything.

Gus
 
Premium Brushes are a world away from Acid Brushes, and don't shed.

But I will be honest - I paid so much for my best brushes I don't use them. At all. They have become collectibles. :(

So cheap brushes it is. And if they shed, with Shellac a little alcohol on some linen can remove the bristle and smooth the finish.
 
Why not Wax it ?

From what I have read, that was not a traditional finish. I don't know why.

But for me, waxing anything is pretty much something you cannot recover from.

No shellac would ever stick again.

Shellac is traditional - thus my choice.
 
The only bad thing about Shellac is that it doesn't do well with water. If you ever get caught in a rain or clean the barrel in the stock you could wind up with a mess.
 
"Lack of water resistance has long been a stab at shellac. However, fresh shellac is remarkably water resistant. Shellac will develop white rings from glass condensation, but only after hours of neglect. And the truth is that much of the necessary water protection should come from a protective coat of wax."

LINK

I've not used shellac for a long time. When I did, and I padded it, it was very successful.

I did not do so well with brushing it, but that shellac was from an old batch - and was likely too old.

From this point on I'm mixing it myself from flakes or buttons, and I expect few issues.
 
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