• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Shrinking hawk handle

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Oct 2, 2015
Messages
187
Reaction score
16
Hello Folks.
Whats the best way to fix a shrinking hawk handle (Hickory). Im trying linseed right now but just wondering if someone has a better idea?

Thanks
Kelvin
 
If the head's loosening due to the shrinkage, AFAIK there are only 3 cures.

1) Soak the head in water until it swells, repeat as often as it shrinks.

2) Remove the handle and saw down through the center of the portion that secures the head for about the depth of the hole in the head, re-install the handle & drive a hickory wedge into the saw cut (cut off flush when done).

3) Replace the handle. :(
 
I wrapped one with a few turns of electrical tap to make it tight. It is one the grandkids throw for fun. Not HC, but worked to tighten up the handle to get some more life out of it until they break it. I would suspect some thin wet leather would serve the same purpose to tighten a handle when it dried.

Still the best answer is a new handle as suggested.
 
All my hawks have tapered handles, when I run out of taper it is time for a new handle....Axes and things that don't have tapered heads I store head down on concrete or gravel...in the shed. this way the head can maintain the proper moisture content. If it is hung on the wall the heads will become loose in dry weather.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If the slop is so much that the head is sliding off before a throw it is too loose, get a new handle. If the head is tight enough to stay on the handle with the hawk in a vertical position, then Pete's Hickory wedge should work. I use a hack saw so the saw cut it thin.
Don't be bashful and drive the hickory wedge in tight. Then I always drill a 5/16" or 3/8" (depends on hawk size) hole cross ways through the head and handle, countersinking the holes for a pin. I use a machine bolt, cutting off the head and threads. Peen the metal into the counter sink bevel. The head is on for good.
Flintlocklar
:wink:
 
The entire point of a tomahawk is that the heads could be shipped by the barrel-full and the end user would install a handle. Drilling and using a pin defeats the purpose of having a removable and replaceable handle.

Just make or buy a new handle and be done with it...
 
Is it a tapered handle? When installed there should always be an inch or more of wood sticking above the hawk head. To tighten just tap the head down a little. Loosening is a regular occurrence, not a big deal. BTW, never buy just one handle replacement, get several.
 
Black Hand
The entire point of a tomahawk is that the heads could be shipped by the barrel-full and the end user would install a handle.
From kswan post he indicated "shrinking" handle. To me that means one that has loosened over time. I stand to be corrected if wrong. In any event, if it is a new install or reinstall, I keep my hawk heads on permanent. To each his own choice.
thanks for the shipping info
Flintlocklar
 
Larry (Omaha) said:
Black Hand
The entire point of a tomahawk is that the heads could be shipped by the barrel-full and the end user would install a handle.
From kswan post he indicated "shrinking" handle. To me that means one that has loosened over time. I stand to be corrected if wrong. In any event, if it is a new install or reinstall, I keep my hawk heads on permanent. To each his own choice.
Flintlocklar

Handles break, "shrink" or wear at the top end to the point where the head can't be tightened any more. Permanently attaching a handle defeats the purpose of a tool that was designed so the handle could be replaced when needed.
 
A permanently fixed handle is prone to breaking or ricochet if the handle strikes first.
A tapered handle will dislodge from the head when struck preventing breakage and absorbing kinetic energy preventing a violent ricochet.
 
In the 70's spent many hours having a few beers and playing handles at rendezvous. When you broke the other guys handle you got to sip a piece of his hair for a scalped lock for your war shirt. Lots of fun
 
Thanks for all the replies and input to enlighten me. Its a tapered top. Im trying to make this one work. Replacement handles from the US are $9.99, shipping to Canada $56.35.
 
Go to your local hardware store and buy a hickory hammer handle of the appropriate length. Shape to fit, making the fat end the top of the hawk handle. With an hour of work you could easily have a new handle that fits. Another option is buy an ash or hickory tool handle and reshape to suit or buy a piece of hickory/ash lumber and make your own. Any of the above options could be accomplished for far less than $66.34....
 
Do your linseed soak for awhile,, while the new hawk handles you order are being shipped.
Next time don't cut the handle off flush with the top of the hawk.
Leave 2-2.5cm above the head so the handle can still be set down further as use compresses the wood.
 
Black Hand said:
Go to your local hardware store and buy a hickory hammer handle of the appropriate length. Shape to fit, making the fat end the top of the hawk handle. With an hour of work you could easily have a new handle that fits. Another option is buy an ash or hickory tool handle and reshape to suit or buy a piece of hickory/ash lumber and make your own. Any of the above options could be accomplished for far less than $66.34....


Yep. Good advice. This is a do yer own thang game. And, often, doing for yerself is a necessity to keep in the game. Invest in a draw knife, look for wood that has hickory/ash characteristics and set to work. After you make the first it will go fairly fast and you may even enjoy the project.
 
Back
Top