Trouble tightening cock jaws.

So my flint was getting loose and the screw only has a screwdriver slot and it is sooooo narrow. Most of my screwdrivers blades are too fat to fit the slot, I had one thin enough and managed to break the tip.

So why is the slot sooooo narrow, really?

So has anyone made a special tool for these narrow slots? Do you widen the slot? Some have a hole drilled through them that works well.

Anyone else have this problem?

I have special gunsmith screw drivers at home, but I generally use a allen wrench in hole and skip the screwdriver.

I widened the slot to fit the turnscrew in my bag. Make certain you have a leather pad holding the flint that is "springy" - too stiff, and you don't get good grip.

Hi,
Top jaw screw slots are not meant to be thin. They should accept a fairly big screw driver. On originals, the slot was actually a "V" so a knife blade could be used in a pinch. Take a flat or knife needle file and file your slot larger.

dave

Okay, made to be custom fit then, will do. :grin:

I took a piece of 1/4 inch drill rod about 4 inches long and heated and put slightly less than 90 degree bend in it about 1 inch from the end. I then heated the end and hammered it flat and hollow ground it to a thin blade that fits gun screws. Tempered it and have used it for years. It fits nicely in the shooting bag.

I've watched Tip Curtis use a butter knife on his. Try something else other than a screw driver that is flat. DANNY

I know one builder who always makes his screw slots to fit a #2 screwdriver "because thats what most people people will grab to use on the screws". I view buggered up screws as a sign of abuse, not use of a gun. For my flintlocks, each gun has a dedicated bag and each bag has two spare flints and a forged turnscrew, all to fit that particular gun. Turnscrews are cheap & easy to grind or file for an exact fit.

You could carry a small set of vice grips and a heavy leather patch with some rosin on it to grip and tighten the cock screw until you get the slot opened and/or use a carbide bit and drill a hole through the screw knob, at the top.

I like the jaw screws with the hole in them so you don't have to use a screwdriver at all. I use a small allen wrench thru the hole. Just get an extra jaw screw and drill it out.

I like a piece of leather, similar to an old baseball glove. Some pieces that are sold, are too flimsy.

I use hollow ground gunsmith screw driver, but prefer the one's with hole. I use a small piece of drill rod that fits the hole correctly.

It is also necessary to check the tightness, after a few shots. And......I try to select flints, that are parallel from top to bottom. I like to hand select flints, using a small homemade gage, to insure each flint, is as close to being the same, as possible. I can change out flints and not have to worry about shimming or changing the angle. Being consistent, in flints, cleaning, and almost every detail, will help in the reliability.

I use a Pickering tool. I have two sizes a musket size,for the trade gun and the rifle size. They work well and live in the flint wallet in the shooting pouch.

Anyone else have this problem?

Click to expand...

Yes, that is a common problem and I have been long puzzled why otherwise quality locks are made that way. I have a screwdriver/turnscrew picked up at a ronny that I ground down to fit the slot. But, like others, I prefer the screw to have a hole for tightening. But, then, you need a dedicated rod for that job and that is another 'thing' to fuss with in yer shooting bag.

I also prefer the hole in the screw also I just carry a finishing nail that's been cut for this purpose. Just keep it in the patchbox with xtra flint. :thumbsup:

I just file a hex on the screw head and use a hex socket wrench. Not HC but it sure does work nicely. The hex on the screw head is hardly noticeable......Fred

Nice tip there; I never thought of a hex head.

Had the same problem with the first flinter I ever owned. A member here on the forum graciously offered to drill a hole in mine. He did a fantastic job and also sent me a short piece of welding rod to loosen and tighten with.

Respectfully, Cowboy

My Bess had a hole drilled crosswise through the top jaw screw. Worked great. (Though I snapped the tail off my Timothy Pickring tool using it to tighten that).

I had a blacksmith make me a "top jaw" screwdriver with a wide & fine tip for the purpose.

Also, the "L" tool (1911 pistol surplus) can be had for a few bucks at gunshows and is perfect for both drilled & slotted screws.

Like many here, I prefer jaw screws with a cross drilled hole. I made up a combination tool from drill rod with an antler handle. The major diameter goes through the screw hole, the step reduced diameter at the tip is for knapping the flint edge.

Two of my locks have rather small size heads on the jaw screw, not really suitable for cross drilling. Bought a forged primitive turnscrew, then thinned the tip to fit the slots.

One of the reasons a flint becomes loose is frizzen rebound. Check for this by placing a piece of tape on the top of your flint.