T/C Hawken Advice

I just acquired my first flint -- T/C Hawken. Supposedly it has never been fired. Signs suggest this to be true. It was put together from a kit by a "gunsmith". 2 questions.
1) How do I remove the lock? I have taken out the opposite side screw and the lock still seems tight -- maybe finish from the stock?
2) Also, I have been swabbing the barrel with BP Bore Cleaning Solvent that I got from Track of the Wolf. Patches come out clean. However, when I pass a brass brush followed by a clean patch, I get a not-so-clean patch. If I put a little gun oil on a patch, this also yields a non-clean patch. I have put many patches through the barrel. Should I resort to a hot water flush?

Thanks for any help or suggestions

Good Morning!

First, regarding the lock, take a close look at where the edges of the lock plate meet the wood mortise. You may be able to see if the finish is a thick layer and perhaps has sort of "glued" the lock plate to the wood of the stock.

You should be able to pull the wedge from the stock, and remove the barrel while leaving the lock in place. Once the barrel is removed, you will be able to see some of the interior side of the lock, and you can then remove the lock screw, and have access to the interior surface of the lock other than where the lock screw inserts, and with a brass punch, tap it out. You could, possibly remove the lock screw about 1/8 of an inch and with a wood mallet, gently tap the head of the screw, but that might damage the threads on the screw and the threaded hole where it joins the lock plate...., better to use a brass punch on the interior of the lock plate. Removing the barrel should give you a better view of lock and if it's just tight or "glued" due to the finish.

NOW..., IF the barrel is stuck to the stock because the builder put the barrel and the lock into the stock before the finish was done curing/drying AND if it was one of the modern coatings that give a sort of hard, plastic, all weather finish..., getting the barrel out may be tough and so will getting the lock plate free from the stock..., and you might damage the barrel channel edges or worse, the lock mortise, by forcing the parts loose. :shocked2: IF you can't get the barrel free..., you may want to consult a stock maker.

What's a "not-so-clean-patch"? Is it sorta orange so you think it's rust, or is it simply discolored?

Is the solvent for cleaning or is it for clean AND rust prevention? IF the packaging is not marked for rust prevention, you probably should use something to prevent rust, after you've dried the bore.

Good luck and welcome! :grin:

LD

Oppps, sorry, I was thinking compression lock.

I would not use hot water, it will only make it oxidize faster. I would run some patches with gun oil, and then a couple dry patches, to determine what it looks like.

I'd be careful removing the lock, you might take out some wood. I'd try a little wiggle at a time. If you see it's still too tight, I'd probably use a thin exacto blade to make sure no finish, has glued the lock in.

If the rifle is an early model, it may have the old style lock and frizzen. TC replaced mine, at no cost. That's probably not going to happen now. The newer cock and frizzen, can be found as new old stock, in some of the older local gun shops.
The later frizzen, will be solid black, the early one's will be case harden appearance.

i think that Loyalist Dave in on the right track, and i would follow his advice.

as to my own two cents, i would avoid 'magic' bore cleaners, and stick to warm (not hot) soapy water, followed by a thorough drying (i use isopropyl alcohol) followed by a good rust preventer (i like Barricade - there are a zillion formulae out there).

good luck with your new rifle.

Once you get it up and running, it will give you a lifetime of faithful service if you do your part. Many look down their noses at T/C products, but mine has never let me down, unless i 'spaced it' and dryballed or something like that...

make good smoke!

Since your rifle is new and probably unfired, you need to remove all the new gun preservation grease and oils from the bore. T/C uses a smaller than bore cavity in the breech. You can clean that with a 30 caliber brush wrapped with a cleaning patch. Use a pipe cleaner to clean from the touch hole to the breech chamber. To store, use Barricade. To shoot, once clean, you are ready to go to the range with ball, powder patch and a sturdy range rod. The wood rod that came with your rifle is too prone to breakage.

Don't get too overwrought about the color of your patches

Grenadier1858 said:

T/C uses a smaller than bore cavity in the breech.

Click to expand...

Correct. And here's an image of various breech designs found online that Zonie has posted on this site before; with the T/C breech at the bottom left...



See the rounded terminus of the smaller-diameter patent breech? T/C sells a "Fouling Scraper" that matches that shape and fits in there to help keep that area clean. Many of those new to T/C try to use a fouling scraper that is the full-bore diameter, but those won't work.

I've also found that a smaller diameter bronze bore brush (sacrificed just for this task, as it will mess up the tip) will work well too; a .45 in a .50, or a .36 in a .45, etc.

Hope this helps.

Old No7

A simple approach to removing a tightly inletted lock is to back the screw out only a little way allowing it to remain in the lock plate threads. Then tap the screw head with a non-marring hammer. This will push the lock out without damaging the surrounding wood. For me, it is routine when I am cleaning a rifle.

:thumbsup:

Sometimes, if the lock plate is very snug it will need to have the lock screw backed out like Rifleman mentions, then lightly tapped, then backed out a turn or so more and then tapped again.

After doing this a few times the lock plate will be moved out of the mortise to a point where removing the screw and then gently rocking the plate by grasping the hammer or cock will get it the rest of the way out.

On many new guns, the factory applies the finish to the sides of the mortise, causing the lock plate to fit very tightly.

If they did this, use a sharp, pointed pocket knife and scrape the excess finish off of the walls of the mortise.
That should allow the lock to be easily installed and removed in the future.

To All of you -- Loyalist Dave, Hadden W, MSW, Genadier, ONo7, Rifleman76, Zonie -- thank you for your time and wisdom. I have enjoyed studying your responses.

In the next day or so, I will get at trying your suggestions. The picture of the bore and breech was helpful. I will work on that with a down-sized brush. And the pipe cleaner in the TH.

Previously I was able to get the barrel off and did see that forward section of the lock plate. I had tried the idea of backing out the screw a bit and gently tapping on it. But "chickened" out until I heard from you all.

As far as coloration of the patching -- no rust, just slight gray/black discoloration after the brush and some gun oil.

Again, thanks for all the suggestions. Seems good to have just joined the forum and have already received guidance to my questions.

Will follow up with results.

If the brush you were using wasn't brand new and unused it could have left residue from previous use that then could have transfered to the following patches.

download the tc manual https://www.tcarms.com/pdfs/uploads/manuals/Hawken_Manual.pdf

Hello All
Lock plate is out ”” no casualties.
Went around the inlet with fine razor PT.
Backed the screw out a little ”” tap tap tap
Repeat ”” saw movement of plate
Wiggled it off.

Many thanks.

Next cleaning steps tonight

Hudak said:

Hello All
Lock plate is out ”” no casualties.
Went around the inlet with fine razor PT.
Backed the screw out a little ”” tap tap tap
Repeat ”” saw movement of plate
Wiggled it off.

Many thanks.

Next cleaning steps tonight

Click to expand...

Congrats. Ye are now an expert. We have all been there. :applause:

glad things worked out for you (please forgive the inadvertent pun, there) ...

next stop - tinkering ... lots and lots of tinkering

Good news