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Traditions PA Pellet

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pchunterpa

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I’m new to the board and fairly new at using a flintlock. I purchased a traditions pa pellet thinking I did enough research to understand what I wanted and should have been looking at to purchase.

I am wanting to upgrade the trigger if at all possible. I have adjusted the trigger, but still do not like it. There is too much slop, creep, and the pull weight is still too heavy for my liking. I have seen the traditions does sell the same rifle with double set triggers but to no avail they will not sell me one. Is there any triggers that will work with this rifle and not afraid of doing what needs to be done to get it working.

Also the lock on it seems a little off. About a quarter of the time the flint will get stuck toward the bottom of the frizzen and the frizzen doesn’t flip back the way it would should. I have tried several different types of flints and sizes.

So I am looking to replace the trigger and lock on my pa pellet, I am going to keep it no matter what since it is my first, but I want to make it the best I can if possible.

Thank you ahead a time for any help in pointing me in the right direction.
 
I can't help much because I haven't got into flint yet but I am pretty sure you can't put double triggers on with a lock designed for a single. But since you are wanting to get a new lock, you can get one that will match a double trigger. I think you will also have to change out the trigger guard to make room for a double trigger. You may be able to do something with the trigger you have to help it yet. Usually a good polishing on the lock parts does wonders. The lock may be salvageable also and I'm sure someone else will chime in to help.
 
Consider, too rebarreling your rifle. Afterward, maybe a different stock with nicer looking wood. Point is, you're trying to put Cadillac hubcaps on your Pinto. Time and effort would be better spent diagnosing the reason your lock binds and also how to reduce trigger pull, than to simply start swapping out parts. This could become a moneypit really quick. You could be allocating funds to build your next rifle instead.

Some of the things you can be looking at to make your assembly of current gun parts work:

Does the frizzen rub on the barrel?

Does it bind when opening/closing?

Maybe you need to lighten the frizzen spring?

Does the lock function as it should when you remove it from the stock?

The mainspring may be rubbing on wood. Ensure the lock fits without parts binding.

Are you over-tightening the lock screw(s)when you reassemble the rifle? Screws only need to be snug, not torqued down. Too tight can cause the lock to bind; otherwise, find any spots where the wood interferes with the free movement of the lock, and remove the excess wood.

There are a lot of things to look for that can be corrected easier than by simply throwing new parts and money at it.
 
AZbpBurner said:
Consider, too rebarreling your rifle. Afterward, maybe a different stock with nicer looking wood. Point is, you're trying to put Cadillac hubcaps on your Pinto. Time and effort would be better spent diagnosing the reason your lock binds and also how to reduce trigger pull, than to simply start swapping out parts. This could become a moneypit really quick. You could be allocating funds to build your next rifle instead.

1.I understand what you are saying but I would rather put my time and money into this one than start a new build, otherwise it will just nag at me. And you are right it isn’t the nicest flintlock out there not even for a production flintlock, but it is mine, and as I said before what I thought was enough research on the subject was not when I purchased it two years ago.

Some of the things you can be looking at to make your assembly of current gun parts work:

Does the frizzen rub on the barrel?
No

Does it bind when opening/closing?

No, I applied some battle born lube on it as well but doesn’t seem to make a difference.

Maybe you need to lighten the frizzen spring?

I did clamp for 24hr but was not sure how much pressure to put on it, so I compressed it enough for the frizzen to move freely. I also changed the frizzen out to a Lyman at one point but that didn’t matter either did the same thing.

Does the lock function as it should when you remove it from the stock?

No, it is the same whether it is in the stock or not. It is hit or miss if it works correctly.

The mainspring may be rubbing on wood. Ensure the lock fits without parts binding.

This has been a more recent development, never had a problem with it before.

Are you over-tightening the lock screw(s)when you reassemble the rifle? Screws only need to be snug, not torqued down. Too tight can cause the lock to bind; otherwise, find any spots where the wood interferes with the free movement of the lock, and remove the excess wood.

Thought of that as well because I have been known to put caps and other things like a gorilla. They are just snug, I do have in/lb screw driver to use if there is a certain in/lb to use.

There are a lot of things to look for that can be corrected easier than by simply throwing new parts and money at it.
 
I just took a look at the Traditions page for the Pellet rifle. The rifle does not have enough room for a double set trigger to fit in the bow.

Now we have to see what can be done for adjustment or tuning of the lock. The flint needs to be adjusted on the lock so the edge is about 1/8" to 1/16" from the face of the frizzen at half cock. If the flint is still hanging up on the frizzen, then we have to address the tuning of all the parts that move in the lock. You may need a spring vise to take the lock apart. You should be able to polish the screw that holds the frizzen in its bridle. This is also the time to polish the toe of the frizzen that bears on the frizzen spring. You just want to polish these parts and not take metal off. Do look to see if anything that moves is rubbing on something else. Polish those areas. If all else fails, you may have to take some metal off the side of frizzen spring next to the lock plate.

In Pennsylvania, you should be able to find some muzzleloading clubs near enough for you to meet with them and figure out what is causing your problem.

I had that issue with my lock on my rifle. The solution was two fold. 1. I needed to have the flint closer to the frizzen. 2. I needed to put a small piece of leather lacing under the rear of the flint to give it more of a glancing blow to the face of the frizzen so it would be more likely to scrape along the face of the frizzen and not catch on the frizzen.

Keep at it and you should have a more reliable lock and a more enjoyable shooting experience.
 
brianpa40 said:
What part of Pa are you in.Northeast Trade Co.in Muncy is one of the best. Been in business for years.
I’m from Potter County, I am back to work in Ohio about 20 minutes west of wheeling wv
 
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I sure don't see it on the Traditions web site. The Grice Gun Shop version appears to have a modified Traditions Hawken Trigger Guard and Traditions Hawken double set triggers. The bottom of the gun is not shown to see how the trigger guard is fastened to the stock.
 
pchunterpa said:
Traditions does make a pa Pellet with double set triggers

Here is a link to grices gun shop in clearfield pa
https://www.gricegunshop.com/trdr3840501-trad-pa-pellet-50-flint-wood-blue-dbl-trigger.html

If I could get traditions to send me one that make it easier.

Not according to Traditions.. https://www.traditionsfirearms.com/category/PA-Pellet-Ultralight

They may have at one time, but more likely someone cobbled it from other parts. Call Grice and ask them.

Here's the parts schematic. https://www.traditionsfirearms.com/data/product_schematics/PA Pellet_1365527394.pdf
 
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When I spoke with traditions customer service they told me me they wouldn’t sell me the double set trigger because I do not have the same model rifle as the one in the link. I sent them the link too.

But oh well I have received an email back from L&R and they are working on a lock and they asked for me to send some photos of the lock have now so they can get me the right one.

Will update as I go along in the process.
 
Here is an update,

L&R Lock Company has lock that will work, RPL model #1 https://www.lr-rpl.com/index.php?o...tions-lock-small&catid=36:cva-small&Itemid=62
But they did say they do not make a trigger that would work

Also contacted RE Davis Company about a trigger as well, but they were straight to the point that they do not make one that would work.

But I did find a single set trigger on eBay that might work, and it does in my preliminary testing. The stock will need some minor work for it to sit nice, will also need to pick up a trigger guard as well.

The trigger does look almost exactly like a trigger that RE Davis sells, http://www.redaviscompany.com/0003.html

I will take photos along the way and post them up when I am done
 
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The double set trigger model is a Grice exclusive made just for them.What is someone to do if they need to replace their dual trigger assembly?The latest Grice catalog I just received has the dual trigger model listed.
 
That’s what kind of figured. Who knows, like said early they wouldn’t sell it to me when I asked about.

But oh well I have found a trigger that will work with the lock that is on the gun now for $29.
 
You live in PA. There's blackpowder builders all over the place there.....

See in someone would clean up and tune the parts of your lock. I would guess they'd charge 50-75 bucks.

L&R locks may or may not be a drop in fit. It often requires some material removal. Not only for clearance on the internal parts, but the outside shape of the lock face too.

I've never worked on a traditions gun, but some very minor work on the lock's sear mating surfaces, polishing a few other surfaces, and a good cleaning and lubrication can make a big difference. I have also relocated the pivot point on a few factory triggers to give a higher mechanical advantage.

I'd take a clean and repeatable single trigger over a double set anyday....
 
Many years ago I popped in an L+R lock into my Renegade. It was a huge gain in reliability and speed. I think they were 125 bucks at the time, but it was really worth the cost. I think the rifle new was 200 bucks, but that was many years before the lock purchase.
The traditions is popular around here due to the low cost. Most guys have a very frustrating time with them. Generally the barrels are OK, but the locks are problematic.
 
For right I am just going to worry about getting the trigger to fit. It is an adjustable single trigger. If i am still not happy with it I will work on the lock next.
 
I think L&R Lock is around $185 or something like that. I will probably end up getting but for right now I am going to work on getting the new trigger to fit and trigger guard. I won a couple auctions on eBay that had a couple flintlock trigger guards in each lot, going go through see what I like and what looks good and them put the others back up for sale.
 
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